kurthicks

the pin doesn't even protect the crux rock moves, but it does protect the crux moss moves it's a great A0 piece.

bluewater has done tests girth hitching spectra/nylon blend slings to stoppers. IIRC, usually the stopper wire broke. I can't find that data right now, but it does exist.

I have the yellow one on my quarks. it will fit on the rubberized handle (as a trigger) and on the shaft (for matching on). pick your poison depending on the type of climbing intended.

Adobe Premier...but it doesn't really fit in any of these categories.

I have too heard of farmed ice. It's on USFS land if I recall correctly, but kept quite secret. Lots of problems with the diversion hose freezing though.

I'll give that a shot. thanks.

NYC007 and I did Gimli too. An incredible climb!

talk to Evan man, he's the local... good to see you around. how's that tendon of yours?

We missed it on the approach. I wanted to check it out but our ascent trail took us right to the start of the upper part... perhaps on the next trip across the river I will check it out. There are a handful of short, but good looking cracks scattered about on that side of the river. worth a day of exploring for sure.

Climb: The Fin Date of Climb: 10/14/2006 Trip Report: For anyone first venturing into the South Fork of the Clearwater River, the eyes are inextricably drawn to a feature known as “The Fin.” The giant arête is posed directly across the river from Lightning Dome -- the same river that has kept less adventurous souls at bay. Apparently this incredible feature has seen only a handful of ascents, including a forced bivy near the summit. The Fin. sobo's photo On Saturday, three of us from the WSU Alpine Club headed down to give it the old college try. Why not go when the days are short? Oh, let’s climb in a party of three with only one leader. Let’s be sure to get all the beta that there is… Call John Crock..."oh there is one piton on route, it’s about 10 pitches"...Sweet! An inflatable kayak took us across the river, though one could ford the frigid waters if the prospect of never feeling one’s netherparts again sounds like your idea of a good time. It turns out that the approach is pretty manageable. Soon enough we arrived at the notch that marks the start of the route. Here we roped up and I took off on the first lead. Kevin gears up at the base of the route. We meandered up fairly full pitches on or very near the crest. We found the third pitch to be the crux; this is also where we found “the piton” that we had heard about. The route had everything including slabs (both clean and mossy), cracks (both splitter and dirty offwidths), bushes (both smooth and spikey) and a nice juggy roof that was surprisingly easy. The exposure was great, though not as much as one might expect. Justin on pitch 3 Me bypassing the final Gendarme We reached the top and took in the most amazing view I have seen to date in the South Fork canyon. A leisurely descent to the climber’s left down the gully took us to the river, which was crossed uneventfully once again, and the car. On the summit. Lightning Dome visible in lower left. Approach Notes Gear Notes One in-situ piton on route

I'm in the same boat. Here is a thread from a little while back. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/604387/an/0/page/0#604387 If I get more info, I'll let you know.

so the route left of tree crack is chipped AND goes up through the highest roof? It sounds like it's ready for drytooling.

If true, it could mean milder temps for the Canadian Rockies. I'd love to not freeze at belays this season. See you up there! w00t!

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one? the munter is your friend.

talk to me this week, B-Money! Also, I have to send off a pair too...

isn't there a good tree anchor above those? It's been a while since I looked around up there. edit: it seems like with the frequency that these are climbed, those bolts aren't likely used for the climbs you mentioned. what gives?

There is a cave on the winter approach from the Hairpin. it's just below the col on the left (south) side of the gully.

They launch from the basin just west of the SEWS approach.

There were some guys from BC on route today, so it has NOT been cleaned. That is, unless they dropped it, which I didn't see or hear.

I'll clean it tomorrow. PM me with specific beta if it's not obvious.

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I started drytooling on the monkey bars in the local park. not good training for technical precision, but great for getting a wicked pump...

of course he does. In fact, i think the shoes are LA Lights.