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Everything posted by Gaston_Lagaffe
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Me thinkgs the Bird would dispute that one. "> I am working on a research paper. My topic is: How Do Glaciers Move? Can you please tell me what you know about the movement of glaciers ? Glaciers feel best when they have one movement per day. Some glaciers do just fine with fewer movements, but when they don't have movements for a long time the result can be quite bad. Glaciers which move much more frequently tend to have loose and soft terminal moraines (also called rock piles). Glacial movement is almost always associated with the release of water. But sometimes glaciers release water without experiencing a movement." — Mike Garrison's answer."
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I was afraid that I'd pull the little flake off, but I like the climb.
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oh realy, is this a privet party??? Not at all, it's ok to climb there, but maybe not for long if it gets any more popular. A certain, ah, non-climbing group has legal dibbs on the area. You've probably heard of it though, I just won't advertise. Cheers
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Oregon climbing trip. Not Smith though.
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Yes, our favorite Minister of Information is back. Apparently there will be an interview with him tomorrow on Al-Arabiya, where he will tell his story. I can't wait for the translation. This ought to
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Managed to get to exit 38 after work. OS'd a couple of 10s. Nice weather we had.
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http://www.nytimes.com/2003/03/23/magazine/23GURU.htm makes for an interesting reading. It's about the founder of Al-queda, and his views on the US.
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you fuckign dolt! he is sayign people who vote for bush (and consequently are pro guns) are more likely to have responsible ownership with their weapons... they dont view it as a piece to fuck up some other hommies... it is either for protection or for hunting... did he ever say there was a direct correlation NO! Actually, what he said was " Gun ownership in the counties won by Mr. Bush is much higher than in the counties won by Mr. Gore ". You obviously liberally interpreted his words and added several things, whereas I took a more direct reading on them. Know, I have no statistics handy to support this, but I'm pretty sure I've read that responsible gun owners are not to blame for crime commited with guns. What I was trying to point out is that his statement about gun ownership has very little to do with murder rates.
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Since crime follows poverty, and Republicans are not known for fighting for the rights of low income workers, could one not deduce instead that the reason crime is high in non-Rep. counties is because the low income people don't vote Rep? I mean, you stating that more guns mean less murder is kinda silly, since no guns would mean no murders(with a gun), no? By your argument, if everyone had a gun, then there would be no murders, and the WWWest has already proven you wrong.
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Bad. Bad, bad, bad, bad, bad.
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Tres vrait,tres vrais. Tros beacoup d'Americain pense que tout le monde devoir parles anglais. C'est peu tetre un quar de la raison ils comprans pas pourquios tout le monde n'est pas pour la guerre. Mais qui sais? Est-ce-que il y a temp pour un demi?
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BTW, the top of the Chief has some slab climbs 5.6-5.10a. You're almost guarranteed to have the slab to yourself, and the hike up with the gear is a good workout. we saw like 6-8 people on there on saturday Oh well, people were bound to start heading for it sooner or later. On a related subject. When I hiked up there a year ago I was really impressed by the amount of work that was put into the trail going up there. I don't recall ever seeing someone put so much into a trail.
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May her travelling spirit rest in peace.
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BTW, the top of the Chief has some slab climbs 5.6-5.10a. You're almost guarranteed to have the slab to yourself, and the hike up with the gear is a good workout.
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If you're going to be climbing at Stone Gardens and want a belay, feel free to ask the guys at the counter if Helgi is climbing, and tap me on my shoulder.
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Again, what if the FA's are dead? Who decides then? No way I'm going to add bolts to Static, for after replacing bolts a fall would only hurt, and not kill (though some fool will probably prove me wrong). I think the discussion is more about why you can't add bolts to a line to make it safer, as in: it won't kill you. Right? As an extreme case, what if someone free solos a 5.11 up to 50ft, adds a bolt for the fun of if, then proclaims to be the FA. Now imagine the guy doing FA's like this all over the place, leaving no new climbs "safe." And please don't point out how ridiculous that scenario is, it's meant to be that.
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I hate being a pessimist, but I don't think there will ever be a consensus on this. I consider myself a fairly conservative climber, when it comes to safety. I was ok on Online until I got off route on the 5.10 pitch, but felt quite alright on the runout on all the other pitches. However, it does bother my when there are runouts that would result in a serious accident if one were to take a fall. I too wonder what gives the FA's the right to dictate how many bolts are on a climb. They certainly can't proclaim ownership over the piece of rock. A friend of mine was talking to me about the problem that the east coast is having. Bolts on many routes are completely rusted, but the e.coast ethics says you can't re-bolt without permission from the FA's and many of them are long dead. Now how stupid is that! On the other hand, I can totally picture some gumby going up Online and placing bolts every 8 feet. Now, if THAT were to happen I would chop them myself. So where do we draw the line? Bolts every 10, 15, 20, 40 feet at minimum? I certainly don't have the answer. I would like a bolt at least at every crux (matching the rating of the climb), providing I can't place gear.
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I'm not 100% sure. I was channel surfing on the radio when I caught "Radiohead" and Seattle". Since I was driving, I wasn't quick enough to switch back and hear the rest.
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yeah me too...but i ahve the singles CD adn it is killer...kinda a cross between OK comp. and kid A with a lil' amnesiac tossed in for good measure... Did I hear right that they'll be playing in Seattle sometime this year?
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I tend to agree on the hip-hop video. The whole thing is just a little too "loud" in my opinion; and I'm not just talking about the music, if you know what I mean.
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Just got an intersting link sent to me. Anyone willing to prove this isn't true? Turn your volume down if you're at work.
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I would be more than happy to lend a hand if you need one. I just don't see falling on old rusty bolts necessary if they can be changed. Let me know if I can help and thanks for a good answer instead of being a dumbass like dberdinka. Dude, when I went there last year it was my first exposure to runout slab climbing. I got off route at the beginning of the 5.10 pitch and nearly barfed as I tought about what would happen if my 220 lbs were to fall 15-20 feet right in the face of my belayer, knocking them out, opening the way for me to continue falling and very possibly (that's what I was thinking at least) ripping the anchor out, taking my belayer with me.
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It's mainly because whoever did the FA sets the rule for the climb. If they only needed few bolts, then that's all we get to use too. You can place trad gear on a couple of places, making the runout less. People don't addi bolts to any lines anywhere, for they will only be chopped by someone. However, I climbed Online a couple of times late last year, and I agree that there are bolts that need replcing. As for the loose flake, well, we're climging in an alpine environment up there and you can't start removing all loose rock, or you'd drastically change the route. There will always be certain dangers to alpine climbing, and loose rocks is just one of them.
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I'm planning on going up there in a couple of weeks to replace questionable bolts on Online and Offline (as time allows). No adding bolts though. I agree that there's a lot of runout, but if the bolts are good then a fall should only result in some bad scrapes. Call me a sissy, but I wear Carhartts , not shorts, just in case I do fuck up. I posted a thread in April looking for people that would be interested in replacing bolts up there with me, and got good responces. Seems there are already guys who are doing good work up there on routes that needed bolts replaced more than Online. That area Cheers