Gaston_Lagaffe

D'you mean that just because the US saved their collective asses close to 60 years ago that they can never disagree with the US?

Sounds like we're doing similar things. PM me if you need a partner.

In my mind Rumfeld and Bush are the party responsible, more so than the ingorant folks who smashed the place. The ignorance and pure arrogance of this administration both astonishes and saddens me. I keep thinking of worst case scenarios and they keep fuckin' HAPPENING. Please ask your friends to make their voices heard during the next presidential election. Oh, and study how Rumfeld was denied a deal by Saddam in Dec 1983 (the very same DAY Saddam was using chem. weapons) and tell me this isn't about oil.

Trad or bolts? How hard of a route?

A lot of you know have shared this experience already. A couple fo years ago my friend and I did Outer Space and in the guide book we it said to say hi to Mr. Goat at the base of the cliff. Then the route description goes on about the route's incredible pitches. Then as the guide book describes the summiting, it again says to say hi to Mr. Goat at the top. We mused much at this as we were preparing for the hike to the base. As we get to the base, we notice that the guide book is indeed very well up-to-date, for there is Mr. Goat and family waiting for us at its base, in all his hairy glory. We were greatly amused. We then climbed the route. And who do we see once we summit, who else but Mr. Goat again, waiting for us! For those wonder: Mr. Goat is a mountain goat which likes to lick urine for its salt.

I'm thinking of heading up there late May during a weekend. That way the folks who want to go can play with their schedules. How does that sound? Cheers,

What? What?

I feel that as a former dog owner and trainier I would like to say that in MOST cases it's not bad dogs just bad owners. It's fun for me to see a dog trotting along the trail like it's in Paradise, but they DO tend to want to sniff around, walk on ropes ( ) and shit wherever they please. Lets face it, places like Smith are getting more crowds every year, and I'm talking both gawking tourists as well as climbers, and there's nothing we can do about it. I've been going to Smith for 8 years now, and so far, IMHO, I would say that the dogs of climbers are generally well tempered. I could only guess as to why. I don't know for shure, but I think few tourists that come there understand the danger to the climber if the belayer gets distracted while worrying about their own skin. I was at Smith only two weeks ago, belaying when two Rotts (I mention their breed only because they're large) came running off trail straight at me and over the rope. The owner (I assume he was) didn't say or do a F#$@!*$ thing about it. Since my partner was on the crux of a 5.12 neither did I, except to glare at the stupid imbecile of human trash that owned them. Pheww, glad I got that off my chest. I feel much better guys. thx

I'm pretty sure I was on Online the whole way. As I finished the 5.8 pitch before the 5.10 pitch on Online the anchors were some slings, an old chain and lousy bolts. I wouldn't want to take a lead-fall on the anchors, taking my belayer with me. I weigh 220, so it's not a trivial piece of force that would hit that anchor IF I fell. At that point I went up a "dihedral" a little to the left, straight up from Offline, so I'm sure I was not on Am Pie. As for the problem of me getting up the actual 5.10 pitch of Online, I started sliding down with every step and couldn't find good feet.

Ok, so I did Online/Offline twice last fall. What I mean by that is that I was unable to do the 5.10 pitch of Online and opted to finish via Offline. Anyone willing/able to clean-up the 5.10 on Online?

You've all made great suggestion on how to do it right, thanks. But how about calling it the Eh-Team instead? http://www.cbc.ca/gfx/photos/face_final020224.jpg PS. This is absolutely not meant to offend Canadians. I partly grew up there and am very fond of the country and its people.

Ladies and gents. I was wondering if there are people interested in helping me replace old bolts at Static Point. I'm both new to this bulletin board as well as to this area, so I'm not sure on the ethics of this in this region. To me it's simple: some of the bolts need replacing as they are getting dangerously rusty and loose, and I feel it's stupid to loose a climb forever just because of this. I would however like to make clear that I'm AGAINST adding new bolts to the climbs, and that we'd try to use the old bolt holes as much as possible. With that said, I have to admit that I have never either placed bolts, nor removed bolts, so I would be looking for guidance as well. If the general consensus is that we should not do this, then I'll respect that. But I would like comments so as to make sure we do it right. Cheers.

My precious cells are devoted to , oh, and climbing. Cheers.

Yeah, I read that page. Sounded like quite the adventure. I went to the trail head a couple of times last summer and there's a massive landslide that took out like quarter of the road up there. It's quite the sight.

That's the one. And please don't me point to C&SE website.

I'm looking for beta for Primal Scream. Because of the alleged horrendous approach I'd hate to arrive at the base only to find out I took either wayyy to much gear, or wayyy too little. I've done Online @ Static, so I know what runout means, but I'm fresh in the trad business. Cheers.