glassgowkiss

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNXwMeI2iTk

The conditions are unreal, totally stable snow. We walked to the base of Nemesis a couple of days ago and the gully under Riptide is all hard packed snow (we used crampons for the descent. South and West facing stuff is falling apart, but alpine and high/North facing is in prime condition right now.

Rolf- congrats on the sendage! I honestly am too lazy to slog back up there, quite a persistence on your part.

"It ain't over motherfuckes" starts about 300ft to the left, goes through the shaded "ramp" and then straight to the summit (3 harder mixed pitches). Coley, Chris and I did it in February of 2003, so it is a second route on the face (for the record) Congratulations, but I would like to keep the record straight, that it is not FA of the whole face, but a new route

check the spelling for wypierdalaj.

Dude, it's simple- Ptarnigam Traverse is what Ptarnigams did in the 1930's during the FA. It's like climbing to the top of Dolt Tower, raping down and claiming ascent of the Nose.

how dare you claim the hardest onsight when you are clipping preplaced quickdraws. real onsighting requires placing gear on lead... how dare you claim a successful ascent of zero gully on ben nevis when you never chopped steps like the original ascent team... fap fap fap blah blah blah yeah, next time I climb to the top of Split Pillar I'll say I climb Grand Wall? Doesn't matter if you chop steps or front point- by saying you climbed Zero it means you started at the bottom, finished at the top (regardless of techniques used)- anything else is a false wankfest

So where the Ptarnigam Traverse name comes from?

Open a guidebook and friggin read about what FA of Ptarnigam Traverse was. If you claim the fastest or any ascent at all at least do a route that was originally done, not some glacier walk.

No I am referring more to old tr's. You can't apply "traverse" from a dictionary to climbing definition, like you most likely won't find terms like red point, onsight, flash and such. So on the token of your thinking it's enough to traverse on the glacier from Cerro Stanhard to Cerro Torre to do Cerro Torre traverse?

so if i go on "Waddington Traverse" and skip the summits of Combatant or Serras, by following the glacier under it will count?

since you seem to like him so much, why don't you go hunting with him? at least you wouldn't be posting bullshit on this bb, while in the ER.

Seems to me you have to bag every peak along the way to claim a complete traverse. It seems to me a lot of Ptarnigam traverses are glorified glacier walks.

Let me put it in plane terms- the proposal would first of all close tax loopholes, and raise sales tax by 0.003. Do the math fuckhead- that's 30USD on a 10K sale. Your company has to be totally fucked from a getgo, since a $30 increase on a $10 000 sale brakes your bosses' bank. No, it's your stupid boss who need beatdown.

buy a machine gun and take wankers out.

One of the few things more annoying then stupid comments after the accidents are people who want to "regulate" stupidity.

congrats! i am also glad he climbs well not only on plastic.

btw please move this to spay, where the fuck this belongs in the first place. don't want to see what people write about an accident? just don't read it- really simple.

On the contrary I see $200 value when I apply for Denali permit, Thanks only to all the "bright" individuals from a few years ago. In the 30 years of climbing a vast majority of accidents are caused by ignorance, lack of experience, and lack of judgment, rather then simply "bad luck". Unfortunately the rest of us has to suffer the consequences of such actions in the forms of fees and regulatory steps. This is an excellent example of the problem. The key part of first poster's statement was "based on partial information from notoriously incomplete sources." The second poster was seething in self-righteous vitriol before finishing the sentence. No, the problem is when people don't accept the responsibility. I don't buy into this bro-brah pc bullshit.

On the contrary I see $200 value when I apply for Denali permit, Thanks only to all the "bright" individuals from a few years ago. In the 30 years of climbing a vast majority of accidents are caused by ignorance, lack of experience, and lack of judgment, rather then simply "bad luck". Unfortunately the rest of us has to suffer the consequences of such actions in the forms of fees and regulatory steps.

Unfortunately most of the accidents are a chain of bad decisions, combined with bad luck and knowing what happen is the best way to prevent them in the future. I think we also have to remember, unlike in The Alps or Alaska, we don't have a specialized rescue services, so the best line of defense is self-rescue. BTW, saying the accidents are a private matter is complete bullshit- they are not. The have long lasting impact in the form of subsequent regulations- vide fees for Denali or recent attempt to force avi beacons for climbers.

I think big thank are in order to Raph (for being a great sport about filming), his wife and family (for putting up with me), Bill Simpkins for letting me use Slavemason music (which you can purchase on iTunes) and Andy for great edit!

Thanks For 600 hits in 2 days due to linking my youtube trailer through your webpage!

On this one I must agree. 2x Toyota Tercell and Van LE

I would say you are better off without any insurance, as will not be able to pay anyway. The same way we can't pay 20k or 120k for treatments. Say for someone like me it's about 140/months- so save yourself the cash, as you still can't even afford the deductibles and copay.