Sol

still able to jug haul with one foot and lift weights so i'm not totally bumming. it actually feels a bit better this morning. it does not hurt when i climb at all. it hurts the day after I climb slabby and/or desperate terrain. it could have nothing to do with my toes. like mike said maybe its a muscle tear, i had been thrutching up an offwidth via a calf jam at index the day before. but like i said i've felt this pain a few times in the last month and its starting to get that chronic feeling. what's up with tendonitis or tendovaginitis in the calve. any thoughts on imbalances in the legs due to climbing, as well as complementary excercises? thanks for the info dru and mike. cbs your comment is ....

if you want to back up the pinch you can sling the giant block that makes up the top of the pinch. last time i used it it had duct tape on the not so sharp edges. now you've got all the beta, go climb that thing!

so, i think i hurt my flexor digitorum longus. i'ts been acting up for about a month now. Basically, the day after climbing it feels like I have a big knot in my calf, its tender to the touch on the interior side just above the apex of my calf muscle,it hurts going down stairs, and while straightening my leg with pressure on it. originally it only happened while climbing at slabby ass squamish,but now it doesn't really matter where i've been climbing. in the past it seems to go away in about a week, but its never hurt this bad, and I am skeptical about it disapearing anytime soon. as this muscle controls the movements of your big toe it makes sense that it could become over-developed/injured through climbing. anyone have a similar injury/experience? should i try to limit walking on it? i am icing, using arnica, drinking water, etc. anything else I should be focusing on? thanks in advance for any information.

High school principal: Dick Servis

thanks for all the recommendations folks, .

60m rope will get you 7-10 feet off the ground, 70m will work. also, with a 70 m rope you can link the first pitch of davis holland/town crier with the second pitch of green dragon. then link 3 and 4 with a 60m. then climb pitch 5, turning the route into 3 pitches. link up of the first two works for the soloist only due to rope drag, make your belay at the base of the clean part of the corner.

Just watched "When We Were Kings", the Muhammad Ali and George Foreman, Rumble in the Jungle Documentary. Great flick, inspiring. Any recommendations on more good documentaries? Trying to take advantage of the WWU audio visual library.

Nice TR, i've stared up at that line before. Nice job.

There is a line in between the passenger and the leland bolt fest. On my first Passenger attempt with Isaac I mistakingly attempted the first pitch. From the beginning of the leland route i traversed left about 25 ft to a left-facing, left-arching corner, guarded by a bulge. I cranked through the bulge at about 10c with crappy gear then continued up the corner until the looseness and grit convinced me that if i really was on route i didn't want anything to do with it. Somehow i downclimbed back to the belay where we realized our error. I swear i could see some white tat on it about 150ft off the deck. It was not a clean looking line, i'm geussing it was either unclimbed and i imagined the white tator the white tat marked the highpoint of an attempt. Was the clean line covered in bolts about 22 inches apart? If so, you were proabaly looking at the leland route, if not, proabaly the passenger.

"The prosecution would like to introduce Exhibit A in the trial of mos chillin; charged with 17 counts of murder of the impossible."

Jungle Boogie is the route at the far left end of the cliff, the easier 5.10. I definetly have not unlocked the pinch, I actually feel like i've regressed on it in the last 6 months, even though i'm a lot stronger. that's the fun thing about projects though...one of these days.

thanks for the info ryan. there's a handful of us keeping the cobwebbs off the routes at the pumphouse. bolts have been replaced at the crux's of go go and superbad. a second pitch has been added to jungle boogie that goes at 10d/11a. and a few more boulders have been scrubbed. also, the project on the right side of Shuksan crag was bolted and climbed: Weapons of Mass Destruction 5.11c. maybe i'm crazy but shorty seems a lot easier than superbad? , sol

why, so I can drop $1200 on a set-up and rip my meniscus in half???

there is an easily accessible natural halfpipe way skier's right on swift creek below huntoon ridge at baker. best one i've found out of bounds in the baker area. there is a ton of natural halpipes on mt hood, ecspecially at meadows. the PNW has such killer terrain!

spray your shit with wd40 about every 5 trips out, works great. my whole mission on the way up is to beat my tele friends so i can switch over faster, then laugh and give them shit for being slow.

yep, go left along trail at base of birds of prey past some fixed line projects for about 100m. pitch 1 is easy to spot.

P1: 10d p2: the roof pitch, a very physical 11a P3: 11b/c P4: 10d Unlike other soft climbs in the area (birds of prey, the great game) the grades felt pretty right on. P2 was all of 11a, much harder than the sword. 3rd pitch started out with a bolt-protected traverse to splitter cracks. The traverse is apparently the crux, and though it appeared quite technical, didn't seem too bad.

thanks for the beta folks. i've got a burton custom split 165 that i've been riding for 4 seasons. amazingly i bought it brand new for $200. i like the board but the burton interface sucks, super sucks. luckily burton has fixed it free of charge 4 times. stoked to get some voile hardware and try out the At boot set up on a prior board. i've been riding for 19 years and enjoy steep technical lines. the burton has always felt a bit soft so i thought about the standard backcountry prior board because the company says its stiffer. at the same time, the manueverability of the kyber sounds appealing too, but not the softness. i will be using the board for powder riding as well as spring mountaineering so it seems like the backcountry would be the all around ticket. has anybody ridden the khyber, how did it do it hard conditions? sounds like we need to start a PNW Splitboard Club. Splitty Nation.

While wandering around baker rocks i came across an old route that although it is quite dirty, looks kinda fun. if you walk right (east) from the pumphouse you first go past some bolts and a fixed line on a project, then you pass the overgrown 2 pitch route learning to fly, next, you'll pass a red tagged 3 bolt project, then finally a few hundred feet from the pumphouse there is a steep blocky route that climbs out of a cave. its pretty dirty, my geuss is mid 11-ish. its not in henrie's book, anyone know anything about this?

anybody ever use a prior splitboard. trying to figure out whether i want the backcountry or khyber. any thoughts?

My buddy Bobby and I jumped on the newer route Straight Outta Squampton a couple a weeks ago. For those who don't own McClane's new book, it is to the left of the Squaw on a formation called Klootch buttress. Because the third pitch was a sea of at least 3 fixed ropes we were only able to do the first 2 pitches. They are truly awesome. Steep and positive; the climbing reminded me more of something you would find at Index. I'm posting a few photos in hopes of luring people out there to help clean the route up, there is still a bit of lichen, dirt, and some grit. Hopefully the fixed lines will come down sometime soon, the 3rd pitch looked stellar. Go get it. Pitch 1: Bobby starting Pitch 2, as the guidbook says, "a unique and amazing pitch for Squamish: Deep in the slot: Yeah Bobby, get some: Rapping off, Witness the Steepness:

damn, i really needed that #7 lost arrow.

i'll give ya $80 for the lot.