Dane

It was rated 5.9 in both the 1976 and 1982 Brooks' Leavenworth Guides. Previous to that it was listed as an aid route in the Becky Leavenworth guide iirc. I first did it in '76 and it seemed like pf hard 5.9 to me But not out of line with all three pitches of Reed's either. I was more than happy to clip a fixed pin up in the squeeze chimney. But the hexs lower down were bomber. Scary and insecure getting into that chimney. Cams? Shit, it was years yet before we saw cams. Viktor's 1991 jump of EO to .10c seemed a little excessive to us that had already been climbing it for over a decade. But nothing changed that I know of besides the number.

You are correct the Baruntse liner is a vbl.

"Huh?" Nothing personal Mike or Daniel. Comments based on pictures, Petzl ads, speculation or a 2 minute look see at the shop or at OR haven't been very accurate so far. When a 40 year old Salewa strap on can get you up most anything, ice or mixed, isn't everything a little hyped? If you think your M10s are a better crampon...that is cool with me. I like the Dartwin more but I am a aware it isn't a "better" crampon.

Thanks Jake. I haven't spent much time in the Omegas. Good idea and materials though as you noted. They just don't fit me well. And I had a hard time lacing the ankles and the hinge placement. None of the plastics fit me very well that I have pictured, except the original style Koflach shell. Even that I modify to fit my girlie size ankles. And I'd want a different inner boot than the production model before I'd use them again. But any boot should be judged by how it fits, no matter what the material it is made from. Omega might well be the sheeet for the right foot. Just not my foot.

Some might find my conclusion interesting. "I have probably spent more time in plastic double boots that any other style of mountain boots. Two decades to be exact. I was climbing in leather single boots before that for the most part with the occasional foray into leather double boots. But the older and better double leather boots were heavy. Really heavy even compared to a good single boot and a Super Gator. So what I ended up with was a very good pair of leather single boots (Haderer) and a custom pair of Carmen/Chouinard Super Gaters that were modified by adding more insulation (synthetic pile) and a zipper down the front that was backed with flaps and Velcro. Once I got into a pair of Kolfach Ultras (shown above) I never looked back. Even if that did require a few layers of mole skin every week during the first winter season climbing and guiding in them." More here on what is currently easily available in double boots in NA and the EU. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/09/double-boots.html

I've actually got a pair late last week and will be using them in the next couple of weeks. First impressions? The price thing only makes sense if you want to use them on multiple boots and boot styles. Looking at it that way you get two pairs of crampons for the price of one. So lots of ways to look at the price...and how the additional price might be off set for your own use...... that is just one way. But not the only way. Mono and dual fronts for example. Off set fronts for another...call it three pairs of crampons just by changing the front points. For me the off set front points is a crampon I am really looking forward to using on steep and mixed. Counter point..Cyborg will do two (dual/mono) but no offsets. BD decided to make a mono specific crampon by simply copying the Dart. You can just which is a better crampon for your use. Lighter than a Cyborg, but not as light as they might/ should have been. Bots are still, well not so good. BD or Grivel has better bots. Up side the front bails on a Petzl crampon is way better than the BDs. BD's back bails are light years ahead of Petzl's rear. Bottom line for me? It is a technical crampon. No technical crampon out there that will allow you to take advantage of the front points like the Lynx will. Is that worth the price of admission to you? When it comes to putting a technical crampon on a double boot...the Lynx has no competition unless you own two pair of the same style crampons one with a wire and one with a basket. I am not totally awed by the Lynx but it does have some features I like, a few I don't. But a closer look will tell you there isn't anything else around with the same features or that will climb technical ground as easily or as securly imo.. Some serious missed calculations and mis information posted above by guys who would know better if they had 5 minutes with the Lynx in their own hands. One more time. Is it worth the price of admission? Personally I like the Dartwin better. But it is costly replacing the front points. I will take advantage of the basket front and the offset front points on my double boots this winter though with the Lynx. Anything that lets you climb harder with less effort in a pair of doubles might well be worth an extra $50. Likely the last pair (but may be not) of fronts @ $100.+ I buy for my Dartwins. My prediction? When people get a chance to climb in them I suspect they will make quite a good impression on hard technical ground compared to everything else out there. Offset fronts will be why to those that can take advantage of it. My guess it the Lynx and new Ergo will be touch stones just as the original Dart, Quark and Nomic were. But then I could just as easily be totally full of shit too

Here is a heads up for anyone interested in the new tools. My impression from email conversations I've had within the EU recently is there aren't going to be a lot of the new tools around. If you want a pair might be best to pre order yours. I have nothing to do with Petzl past climbing on their tools that I BUY with cold hard cash. And I don't have the new ones yet myself. But mine are on order and have been for a while now. Just saying...if the EU is any indication...and you want a pair...might be best to get your order in now.

I have a pair of lwt Fischer asm 180s .......that are good in both and shit deep snow and ice. New when I took them to Chamonix last winter for a couple of months. Drilled for Dynafit bindings already as well. That could save you another $50 if you are between a 9.5 and a 11.5 boot. $100. which is a steal for this ski. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1030733/Mega_gear_sale#Post1030733

I'm driving from Iss. to Denver. ONE WAY. Stopping only for climbing along the way. Leaving real soon. Any one need a ride..for part or all? Share gas. Sleeping out. Driving a nice new rig, but definate dirt bag trip. Room for 3 or 4. Only schedule is i have to be in the SLC area for the day, 9/17. Act fast or I'll be gone.

FYI.."new" Nomics are being delivered in the UK and EU already. We should be next.

A sensible person would ask, "what should I do with my Sabertooth crampons?" Check and see if they are first gen or second. If they are first gen I'd call BD and ask for a free upgrade. I personally would not climb on them. Obviously Rob would May be he will buy them from you. If they are second gen? At least then you will have a better chance of them surviving a full season. FWIW no way in hell would I climb on a crampon I have seen fail enough to question their reliability. You asked, and that is my opinion. BD says there is nothing wrong with their SS crampons. Rob seems to believe them as well. I have nothing to gain from telling the SS story from my perspective. If you are into yours for $100 and change, I'd call it a cheap lesson and get rid of them (factory return or what ever) Life is short enough that it seems a waste to worry about lack luster gear.

Thanks Ezra, we were just lucky to have so much virgin rock. I doubt all the ratings would hold up today. But a few like, UNI, have done better than expected. But at least the maiority of them were done onsight. The last pitch of Tsunami wasn't one of them though. I think It Ain't Hay is easier than say West Face Direct. And I like the multiple syles of climbing WFD requires over the typical right facing lay backs that IAHay and the cracks on both sides of Chimney offer. Those flakes generally require at least a bit of run out between lay backs. WFDirect is old school 5.8 and if Damnation is any comparison (and we thought it was) now 5.9+ "Still Laird's book seems like a descent effort" Ya, we can agree to disagree on that

Sounds liek a great trip. Congrads on a wonderful summit! Laird says 4 pitches. I understand how you can get three, but four? The third being the 3rd class short pitch onto the north face and getting to the summit. The two short pitches to the right of the chimney up to the blocks just below the summit. If you stay in the chimney the second pitch is Westside Girls, which Laird doesn't bother to show. Also not shown is Peterman's difficult Twin Cracks on the left side of the Chimney on the second pitch. Not the most impressive guide book ever authored. Green's is better for Chimney. Here is the more typical second pitch of the Rappel Chimney which historically was rated 5.6, not 5.7 as Laird has it rated. But you must step a bit right (facing the rock) to get into this crack system. From your pictures it looks to be what you climbed from what I cna tell. Old school 5.6 can be an eye opener

If nothing else I am a predictable tire kicker

"I ordered it direct from Petzl" 2 feet of tape $10 and shipping 3M Temflex #2155 Rubber splicing Tape from Lowe's (same stuff as Petzl sells) 22 feet of tape $6.00 plus tax

Best do a goggle search on: "Navel Hernia Symptoms in Adults"

Get the long one. And if it is cold you'll want a hooded jacket.

ya finally bought another pair? Or just getting prepared http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/something-better-out-there-more-similar.html

Who built it and when? First 3 on the serial number to date the action? What bottom metal is on it? How many rounds out of it? Who's ammo and the load? Pictures?

I've not seen over 80F in mine but lots of -20C. Took a good hit on mine at -25C and no damage to helmet or me. A simialr hit same day broke one of the less expensive Petzls.

Not done lion tamer but done lots in the area. It does sound like one of the best in the Idaho Selkirks. Gimil on the other hand is a must do.

Here is something else that I think needs to be added to the conversation. Easy to get side tracked on the real issue here, with comments like, "it is your boot, your skill, your body weight, your technique" or now even "the rock". Ya, about that Chamonix granite? I bought a new pair of Dartwins while in Chamonix. I used them on every mixed climb I did there last winter but the two laps mentioned on the Cosmic with SS. The climbing amounted to several 1000' feet including, you guessed it, two additional laps on the Cosmic. Never sharpened and untouched since I got home in April. Judge for yourself how much life is still in these forged, chromoly front points. For me at least another full winter season (2+ months) in Chamonix again. No question Chamonix is hard on gear but I suspect it is because you get to climb mixed any given day if you chose, not that the rock is any harder or more abrasive than granite in Alaska or the Tetons for example. It is just easier to get to and get on. If you keep track (and I obviously do) I also find it interesting that the companies based around Chamonix don't have recent issues breaking picks or the more recent issue of crampon failures. And finally. I could have included these Dartwins in my "crampon metal" comments. I didn't because of several reasons. First, the design is totally different as is the surface area contacting the rock. But if you look closely and actually examine the surface area between the two crampon styles there is a stark difference on what is really available for material to prolong the life of your crampons. Kinda remnds me of a razor blade and an axe in profile. Which is why I didn't add the Dartwin or any vertical front point crmapon to the original conversation.

Easy to get side tracked on the real issue here, with comments like, "it is your boot, your skill, your body weight, your technique" or now even "the rock". Ya, about that Chamonix granite? I bought a new pair of Dartwins while in Chamonix. I used them on every mixed climb I did there last winter but the two laps mentioned on the Cosmic with SS. The climbing amounted to several 1000' feet including, you guessed it, two additional laps on the Cosmic. Never sharpened and untouched since I got home in April. Judge for yourself how much life is still in these forged, chromoly front points. For me at least another full winter season (2+ months) in Chamonix again. No question Chamonix is hard on gear but I suspect it is because you get to climb mixed any given day if you chose, not that the rock is any harder or more abrasive than granite in Alaska or the Tetons for example. It is just easier to get to and get on. If you keep track (and I obviously do) I also find it interesting that the companies based around Chamonix don't have recent issues breaking picks or the more recent issue of crampon failures. And finally. I could have included these Dartwins in my "crampon metal" comments. I didn't because of several reasons. First, the design is totally different as is the surface area contacting the rock. But if you look closely and actually examine the surface area between the two crampon styles there is a stark difference on what is really available for material to prolong the life of your crampons. Kinda remnds me of a razor blade and an axe in profile. Which is why I didn't add the Dartwin to the original conversation.

From a materials stand point the "hot-forged 17-4PH structurally hardened martensitic stainless steel" should work just fine for what Simond has intended. More on 17-4PH http://www.sandmeyersteel.com/17-4PH-spec.html

I have climbed on the Sabertooth and everything else I am listing here but the newst Lynx. After last winter's ss failures showed and now more faulty ss crampons turn up (another new one today on the blog) I have to agree with your thinking. You could get a very bitter after taste from that experience. Sabertooth is easily replaced by the Grivel G12 or Air Tech with as many binding options as well. Either will climb grade V ice or harder easy enough. All the hard climbs both have been used on would be difficult to list. House did his new route on Alberta in a pair of G12s as an easy example. Petzl offers all sorts of options. Vasak, Dartwin, the newest Lynx. Sarken (adjusted correctly) seem to work for a lot of folks just fine on difficult water ice, mixed and in the alpine. Good info here: Andy Kirkpatrick's in particular is worth the read. Andy Turner seems to be another Brit who spends a good deal of time in the Sarken. http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/petzl_charlet_sarken_spirlock http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=206066 http://reviews.mec.ca/9421-en_ca/5014-181/petzl-charlet-vasak-leverlock-crampons-reviews/reviews.htm http://www.pembaserves.com/2011/01/petzl-sarken-crampon-review/ More on choosing a crampon here: http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/getting_the_right_crampon Sabertooth had been my go to crampons for a couple of seasons until this spring. When I switched to the Dartwin for better reliability. But haven't decided if I will get something else or not. Likely the Lynx is in my future and a more comparable replacemnt for the Sabertooth. But the Air Tech is under consideration as well.