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cracked

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Everything posted by cracked

  1. Aye, but what if your concentrated force (widely known as pressure) breaks away enough rock that it falls out? I'd think that wider lobed cams work better in soft rock for a reason.
  2. Whenever I've tried racking on a simple sling, I can never get anything off, or even harder, back on. I like to rack stoppers and draws/slings on my harness, and cams on the metolius sling.
  3. Works much better than a 'normal' gear sling.
  4. Not true, the rope was way slicker than my Galaxy or Flash using an ATC, figure 8, or Grigri. It's not about a smoother lower, it's about greater friction. I'd be afraid of taking a whip on this rope, it's so slick I question if my belayer could hold me.
  5. So I bought a nice down bag this summer and a nice bivy sack this winter, and I've used the two together a few times and I've got some questions. I make sure not to breathe into the bivy so I don't soak the torso of my bag with condensed moisture. My clothes are not damp when I get into the bag. My bivy is three layer goretex. But my bag loses loft after one night; I'd be hesistant to take it out for two nights. And this is in good weather! Am I doing something wrong, or is this common? Any hardman tricks?
  6. I recently used a new 10.2 pink Beal and it was horrible...nice hand, but so slick it felt like an 8mm through my belay device. Slick enough that I couldn't get a smooth lower with a Grigri. Stay far, far away from a 10.2 pink Beal.
  7. Do you mean Normans or Mormons?
  8. WTF are you talking about?
  9. It's not an absurdly low price. Who would want to ski Arc Angels, and who would want to ski 200cm skis?
  10. You mean some people that post here CLIMB???
  11. I wish I could be as K3WL as ERIC.
  12. WTF? You lusting after Smith or something? It was really nice last week.
  13. Easy ski. Good snow on Saturday. Big bootpack. Expect lots of people, and you'll be on skis from summit to car.
  14. Slowshoes suck bad. Skis don't. Any questions?
  15. I'd disagree with Kevin, I make sure my Denalis are in the most-forward position for skiing, if they aren't, I flail more than usual. Get the biggest, baddest, stiffest boot that fits your feet and your binding, and you'll be happier.
  16. "the bottom" being intelligent posts arguing Newton's laws rather than half-baked (false) theories (a la Bob)?
  17. Luke, I respect your enthusiam and often enjoy your photos. However, your argument above is flawed. Some of the 'whiney bitches' climb gnarly stuff that you couldn't touch. No, maybe not v10 in the gym, but rather in the mountains. (Example? SpecialEd) After four years of sport and gym climbing I was climbing 5.12 sport and v5 plastic. I've moved away from that, and am weak as far as forearms go. I don't have the time to do everything, I've been focusing on different aspects of climbing instead (and skiing), not to mention school. I might be 'weaker' but I'm happy with what I'm doing right now. I admire people who crank in all diciplines, and as such climbing is not just wrestling pebbles for me. You tell people to respect what you enjoy, so respect what I enjoy. It comes down to how you define 'good climber'. Don't be so narrow minded as others here are. But don't tell people that because they don't boulder at your level they can't voice their opinion, that's bullshit. Rudy is very accomplished in a narrow discipline, as are you. But that doesn't put you on a pedastal. You ARE being narrow minded in that the only way you see climbing is in sport, trad, or bouldering. People can legitimately call you a pathetic climber because you haven't done any alpine routes, hard ice, mixed, etc, just like you're calling them pathetic climbers for not being able to send V7. There's way more out there, and it's pretty damn cool, too! So quit being so self righteous lest you become a negative spraylord yourself. I guess what really chafes me is your idea that anyone who doesn't boulder hard isn't a good climber. I'm going skiing tomorrow in my quest of becoming a decent backcountry skier. I'll be heading over to Smith later this week to tax my flabby forearms a bit. Have fun in Utah. Cuz that's what it should be about.
  18. You were in a punk band last year? Letterman didn't seem to mind too much...check out his expression.
  19. Most of my classes have a mailing list so the prof can get a message out to everyone. But how can there be so many people dumb enough to reply to the professor, sending a email meant for him out to THE ENTIRE CLASS??? A few days ago my inbox was flooded with fifteen emails coming from a small group of people who wanted to form a study group. Today, an email was sent out to everyone containing the sender's student ID! People too stupid to check what address they're sending an email to shouldn't be using the internet.
  20. Check your PMS...I mean, PM's.
  21. Carl, reread Will's post above. He was suggesting that you use XC kick wax for "mad grip". Unless I misunderstand him and he means something else. And I don't globstopper my skins for glide, I wax em to prevent snow build up. It's not a glide wax, is an anti-snow wax.
  22. Hey dumb-ass! Where is the proof that all of the Iraquis are enemies of the U.S. soldiers? Where is your evidence? Stupid faquin kid. Scott, WTF are you talking about? I was pointing out that the assumption that all Iraquis hate us is false. Note the ambiguity in my previous post though, the statement could be made for either side. You fell for it, assuming that by responding to Jay's post I was disagreeing with him. Who's the stupid faqing kid now? Allison, I'm afraid I was simply pointing out the fact that your earlier assertion is simply false. I've read enough first-person Iraqi accounts from people who were overjoyed that Saddam was removed from power to know that no all Iraqis view the US as enemies. I never asked for solutions, I was simply saying that you're wrong. I know you'd rather bitch about the current state of affairs rather than do anything to improve them. You don't have to repeat yourself. What I don't like about politics is that it usually consists of incoherent, hate-filled rehetoric full of catch phrases and pigheadedness, with a decided lack of real arguments. Sad. There are a very few people here (and in general) who base their arguments on logic and accept the fact that their opponent has good points, too. But the majority, whether conservative or liberal, don't. Lack of intelligence? Maybe, but most of these people aren't particularly dumb. Weird.
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