cracked

Excellent show.

I'm going to bed.

That's just not cool.

For GregW. Shoot anything that moves.

But wire gates DO have flutter issues...just greatly reduced compared to normal biners. I'm waiting for the invention of the massless gate biners.

.. maybe not. There's also the consideration of the additioanl legnth of the screamer, which is what - 24" / 36" ? May not seem like much, but I've seen a leader fall on his first screw placement (with a plain qd) and be caught by the rope only a few inches above the deck. If he had a screamer he would've hit the ground for sure. Since then I usually use a plain old quickdraw on my first screw to prevent the extention, then it's screamears till I run out of em. You mean the fall on Icy BC that you told me about? Good point. Then again, the guy is lucky he didn't have a stretchier rope, or a looser knot, or.... I'll amend my statement and say that IN GENERAL, screamers are a good idea. Either way, Bob is wrong. Screamer battlecage!

I didn't need to see that!

I dunno Bob. People have done extensive testing, lab testing as well as in true climbing situations (eg falling on a screamer in the gym and measuring the impact force on the pro). Results show they do work as far as reducing the impact on the pro. A screamer cannot shock load the pro more than if there were no screamer at all. Physically impossible. You could argue that the vibration of a ripping screamer could vibrate a gate open and drastically weaken a biner, but that's the only sensible argument against them.

That last shot with Jberg is sweet.

How about Hand Job?

Here, take your own advice, and I was busy writing my trip report and didn't proofread. Sorry.

FYI, having too many s in your posts makes you read like Muffy. ie, feminine.

Dave, either give a coherent argument why you don't like the president or STFU. Oh, and about the caps lock. IT'S NOT FUCKING MEANT TO BE ON ALL THE TIME!!!! WOW! WHAT A CONCEPT!

This is a 'personal attack' on a 'newbie'. Such SPRAY shall not be allowed. By COMMON SENSE, you shall be RESTRICTED from posting (IE BANNED!).

on! Glad to see more people enjoying the weather!

I'm looking forward to the thousands of square miles of corn.

We were on the C/D. We got a late start, ~8:30 am; I turned around at 3. Back to the car by 6. The Coleman Headwall looked cool, but we were worried about there being lots of powder (no sun touched it) and potential wind loading. Plus we were tired and I'm a pussy. I like it when you don't need a headlamp to skin at night.

It does in Colorado!

I got to within 50 or 100 vertical feet of the summit. Turned around, nasty survival skiing on the Roman Headwall (ice and deeep slush), but excellent pow from the saddle to the car. Maybe 8 inches deep. I'll have a TR up soon. I want to see your pics!

The real ski season starts in April and goes through August. No, I mean it starts in November and goes through March. When April comes around you'd better hit the golf course with Rudy. Seriously.

Nice! Jeff was hell-bent on Baker for some reason, otherwise we would seen you there. We got some fun skiing in, anyways.

stubbies are just as strong as long ones placed all the way in. It is counter-intuitive, but true. Only in good ice. As Luebben and Harmston's tests show, any screw is hard ice is bomber. Any screw in shitty ice is shitty. In ok ice a longer screw is stronger. Tie-offs suck.

Crazy_Jeff and a 5:30pm start. Skin till midnight. Clear. Moon - no headlamps. Got within 100 vertical of the summit. I expressed my displeasure with the mountain: Skiing was fantabulous from the saddle down. A good way to spend 25 hours. Beats school.

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