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cracked

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Everything posted by cracked

  1. cracked

    A First Banning

    Well, right, but how do they ban someone who hasn't posted? Pulling the address off a reader's query would be a lot of work, no?
  2. cracked

    A First Banning

    How do they figure out what IP to ban?
  3. Someone help me up. That's the funniest thing I've read all day. Thanks for the laugh, Kurt.
  4. Mmmm bottled water.
  5. cracked

    Squirrels

    I heart squirrels. Poor blackie.
  6. cracked

    Name My Dog

    You are witty and original.
  7. I don't think there's enough snow to make it worth bringing skis.
  8. cracked

    another poll

    Actually, the sun is happily drifting about, it is not nearly 'fixed'.
  9. cracked

    another poll

    Sounds like someone has a digital watch.
  10. 195? Are you INSANE?
  11. POSTING IN ALL CAPS WHILE BASHING SOME OF THE MOST POPULAR BOARDS EVER MADE MAKES YOU LIKE LIKE EVEN MORE OF A RETARD THAN YOU REALLY ARE!!!!!1
  12. cracked

    Name My Dog

    Fury.
  13. I think I agree with cj001f. So one must strive to create a moment vector whose direction is along the longitudinal axis of said Ice Screw. When one fails and the moment vector's direction varies, the Ice Screw 'wobbles', creating a less than optimal cut in the first centimeter or so of the ice.
  14. Torque can only be defined one way: it's the component of the force applied perpendicular to the moment arm, multiplied by the length of hte lever arm. Since torque is a vector, the direction is given by the Right Hand Rule (RHR).
  15. I have no clue what iib is trying to say, so I'll work with this. The above doesn't make much sense. The BD hanger is somewhat free-floating, so no matter if the screw is placed at +5 or -5 degrees (or more?) to horizontal, the hangar will point straight down. As long as the force is applied straight down, it doesn't matter how long the hangar is, since there is no moment arm. Now, let's imagine that the BD hangar is 3 inches long, and is fixed relative to the screw, at 90 degrees. Now, when you place said screw at 90 degrees to vertical, the load on the hangar is at 90 degrees to the screw, and the hangar can exert no torque. So, in this case, the screw will have the same pull out strength no matter where the biner is clipped (momement is zero). No, if we tilted the screw at +5 degrees (ie, hangar is higher than the teeth), then the hangar will indeed exert a torque on the screw, increasing the loading of the screw near the surface of the ice. Now imagine that we take this hypothetical screw, and place it at -5 degrees (ie, teeth higher than hangar). Now, with the aforementioned rigidly connected hangar, the force will create a moment around the screw that actually pivots around the teeth of the screw, decreasing the load on the ice near the surface, at least below the screw (the screw will try to pivot around the ice above the screw). But this is useless speculation, since the free-floating hangar design of the BD makes the hangar exert no moment whatsoever within the range of normal placements. So, the hangar design differences between Grivel and BD have no effect upon screw strength. So, I conclude that a) IIB is drunk, crazy, or stupid or b) he didn't mean what JayB is talking about. In this case, I humbly beg elucidation of the subject at hand. Geek in training, over and out.
  16. Who gives a fuck?
  17. Liar...you are at least 2 metric tons...this has been an established fact for well over a year now...piggie piggie Don't hate me because I'm perfect, Rudy.
  18. Go pick on someone your own size (RuMR maybe?), Pax. We don't want anyone getting hurt.
  19. Weight is a force. W=m*g. High school physics anyone? I weigh 0.947795596kN. I once gave ashw_justin a few feet of inadvertent penalty slack because when his skinny ass dropped on the rope it felt like he was pulling up slack.
  20. If a screams rips at 2kN, it won't rip on a typical fall. I weigh about 1kN, and am rarely yanked up when a partner falls. So typical force on a belayer is significantly less than 2-5kN.
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