chirp

Me mistaken for Dwayner? Ahh MattP, I must clarify by stating I cannot take such a credit. For below you see I am not Dwayner, nor a Dwayner wannabe. I am Honored tho by your query.

Well, I must input at this point, Dwayner might offend some but he has the background to have the leeway to say as he wishes. I think most of the aforementioned "classic sprayers" here are a little too much into the "shock" value and assorted bullfucking shit. At least Dwayner has been climbing in this region for a significantly long enough time to warrant some spew towards the neuvo sportos and their worthless diatribe. The quality of this web endevour is wholly reliant on its community and unfortunately...that says little about the community.

NON climbing but equally in theme with the Northwest spirit.

2 years ago, left 8 cams in a big roof in Zion...it was late, we were frustrated and stressed...just seemed like the right thing to do rather then try to get em and get injured. Came back a week later and they were still dangling, went back up and got em back.

Yup Yup, but I think one can perfect the technique over time. I am more than willing to embrace it as my new avocation, I am sending a PM to Mark Wilford as we speak.

It may just be time to head back up to Ten Percent and restore that to a bold and proper line. I didnt do it when it was first bolted but FUCK...I think the time is ripe.

Obviously most of you are pretty much tunnel vision on this whole topic. Bolting a new line is fine but the thought process needs to be in line with simple respect and quality. I personally bolted a few NICE routes in Kolob Canyons in Zion in the Mid 80's. I put in enough routes to make it a neat place to climb in an astounding area. A few discreet routes...thats all. Just go to Rockclimbing.com and do a search for Kolob Canyons now. Fucking asswipe sportos with no real sense of fucking aesthetics have raped and fucking pillaged an area with the aesthetics of a temple with bolts, rivets, and railroad spikes. Consider the mindless rantings and double speak the the UBER Zion bullshitter Narc Olepsy..."clean climbing ONLY, HAFWEN ONLY", yet the bastard drills pockets and chips crimps in a national park and a State park ( Yes i have climbed with him and helped bust him for some shit up the S face of Timbertop. Fucking so what if pope is coming from what you feel is an 80's sensibility, hell thats when we learned to climb and that was a fine time to be around, when there still was a sense of climbing as a unique endeavor, not some mindless asswipe "club med" activity. I am from the 80's and damn proud of it, I am only sorry most of you never will get to experience those days again. BTW, if your ever in Red Rocks, look to the arete right of Black Track, some dildo bolted the face 2 feet left of the crack. WTF? 1. Hacksaw bolt 2. tap in stud 3. sand/epoxy 4. TYVM

Uh......dude, you're quite a dildo. I'm surprised you didn't see this as another opportunity to post a photo of yourself. DOH! Thats gotta sting.

"Ad Rem Adsum"

Anyone know about routes on the North side of the inlet to Skookumchuck Res. (Thurston County)? I was there years ago bushwhacking around but we ended up on the South shore and no where near any rock. Is it worth the thrash or a big waste of time?

My biggest peeve is climber and hikers that dont have a leashed dog. Regardless of the dogs focus and training, there are times when a leash is a common courtesy. Jumar is always on a leash, and I step well off trail when I encounter oncoming traffic. I am amazed at how many times peeps have thanked me for simply being in control of my dog. Heads up!, this dog is verified cool, chill and can climb 5.4. She is aid tho... Jumar, my psycho love puppy.

Anyone here besides Pope remember a little Japanese exchange student named Takao? LOL, he always gave me crap for carrying too much gear, but he also conceded that the extra weight was a great training tool. What ever happened to him? Anyone know?

My helmet is becoming a more constant companion on a variety of routes. After my wife fell 500 feet off of Chair peak in 1991 I get twitchy at the thought of even a short bad fall and soft tissue. Proper helmet decorations should be creative and hand made: Coconut Monkey and Monster Truck drawings

Heyas, I am heading up to Static point with a noob friend tomorrow, been like 12 years since i've been there, is the road and trail still the same or has logging happened and changed everything? Any good info would be great! Thanks in advance!

I saw it as (at the time) an obscure sport that made you think. It was not a mainstream activity and therefore, being on the fringe it was an attractive alternative to the generic and cumbersome "American sports". At the time, very few people were climbing and because of that there were few "rulesets", no one could critisize you for what you did, and there was no dogma as associated with ball and team sports, you just enjoyed the sport as an end in itself and found within it a brotherhood of kindrid, free spirits.

Good job Holly, I noticed your thread on RC.com too. Cheers to your kindness and forethought! I hope the riteful owners contact you. Too bad this board has so many kids and morons (often the same) that have nothing more to do that act like rude little pricks.

NICE! Does that include the drama theme?

Walked my great puppy then spent the rest of the day making lattes and fekking blended beverages for people. Now im heading in for an Everquest session.

My experience is on Sandstone ( Navajo specifically and mostly) and some slabby granite. Any granite type rock will polish over repeated use, just try some of those slippery probs in camp 4. As for sandstone, it tends to get "buffed", not so much a polish since its always sluffing off on a granular level, but a fresh un-trammeled patch of SS slab is usually more "frictiony". This mainly noticiable on 5.10 and harder SS slabs where friction is crucial. Technique and "dynamic balance" is always helpful Yes, I think slabs get a little harder over time. Hall of Smears 5.11, Kolob Canyons

But my name is Dave Thomas in RL, and I say its hella good! Ok for some killer stuff go to Bit and Spur in Springdale, UT. period

Hello?! Baja Fresh is awesome , had one in Vegas and it was a mainstay. They got one in Kent and one in Lakewood, among other places.

That Krak book on the Mormons. Actually pretty fun read, and interesting too since I lived and worked there during portions of the mid to late 80's. I met some really unique folks and got to hear some interesting views. Funny memory tho, grocery shopping in Hurricane or LaVerkin or even St George to a degree, You could tell the polys cause the men wore dark suits and the women always has the 1930's style dresses with their hair dome up in a similar period style. What an awesome part of the country tho, the most beautiful state IMHO.

A friend and I were on the second pitch of a FA on the east face of Devils Tower. It was a sweet A3 shallow corner and I was 15 feet into it when we noticed clouds coming in fast from the west, over the top of the Tower. We didnt think too much of it until there were several lightning strikes EAST of us that were ground hits. All of a sudden the weather turned to crap and we were in a full blown electrical storm. I yelled to my bud at the belay to watch me and I started to down aid until I was at the last 2 pieces, a #1 and a #2 RP. by this time the rain was pounding and it looked grim so I told my partner to take me off and rap for his own safety and I tied off the pieces and gingerly rapped in pouring down rain with lightning all around. Once I touched ground I dropped my gear and we both ran like crazy for the base of tower. The rain was mixed with hail and the storm so crazy that it was as if we were in a hurricane. This was my first season in a semi mid-west region so I had never experienced a storm like this and was suitably humbled at its speed and intensity. When I first got to Devils Tower, during orientation they told us there was a big stash of mattresses in one of the garages. I had no idea why that was such a big deal until someone pointed out to me a vehicle with fist sized dents from hail. Needless to say, our descent wasnt the safest move in a situation but I definitly didnt want to be up on that lightning rod any longer than I had too.

If yer gonna traverse, choose your own holds and or style, poor form to repeat with a similar routine. I think this is gonna be the wave of the future. Keeps it all exciting, more fame for everyone.

Oooh, I should be able to sell my circa 1987 A5 Hammer ( like I would be foolish enough too) for mebbe 500.00 or 1k on Ebay? Complete with a Dakota Boltworks drill and handy logo carrybag