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Everything posted by sill
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Hey Russ, what's the haps. Where are you at these days, called the office the other day and none of you folks were around.
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He's just pissed at me for offering the sheep to some other folks.
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Post deleted by sill
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Jesus dude, that kind of makes me sick to my stomach. You may have some justification for having all that shit, but jesus efin christ.
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It is just better. More freedom, your hands stay warmer, the list goes on. Even twight and co. pretty much climb totally leashless these days, as do most good climbers. No, its not a chest beating thing, it's just another way of doing things.
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Crossfit is definately the way to go. The great thing about it is the flexibility of the workouts. Friends and I do it in a home garge climbing gym, incorperating the wall some, but mostly do it with weights, finger/campus board. The workouts of the day generally require little if any equipment, great when you don't have the space. A group of us have been doing it where I live for a few months and I am really sold on it. In combination with climbing long routes or full days cragging, it really seems to be the ticket. Check out www.gymjones.com for the full on approach to crossfit from climbers. Have fun, the workouts can be brutal.
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Hey Mike, I'm a friend of Marcus Donaldson. Estes is kind of my home base for me. I will be out of town for the next little while but I could probably hook you up with a couch or even an extra room of some friends of mine. Just let me know. Just ask Marcus how to get a hold of me. J. J.
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Crossfit has worked pretty well for me. Been doing it a couple of months in local garage gym, but you can do it about anywhere with a few weights and pullup bar/finger board. Seems to have helped me. It's a good addition to long days out climbing, which is the real key. www.crossfit.com
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My condolances to the Skoog family and friends. They way he was able to get after it in the mountains with his brothers and friends was truly inspiring.
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Yeah, the plaques are pretty common at the Creek. I have even seen ones made for new routes in the last year or so. They don't really last long though, you can't even read the ones that are more than a few years old.
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I think Guy Edwards climbed the North Ridge in six hours or so. For technical routes that might be the fastest. I know of others who are pretty close to that time on the N. Ridge.
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Quit your bitchen and get out of here already. Really though, take it easy man, enjoy all that bullit limestone over there. See you down the road. J. J.
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The real plus about the climbing around Boulder is the access. You can get off work at 5 pm and be climbing pretty soon after that, usually in awsome weather all winter long. Still no crag in Colorado is as good as Squamish, but there are some pretty good ones that I will settle with that are just a few minutes down the road. I learned to climb in the PNW and and now dwell in my truck in Co. If you want to climb pretty much everyday then places like Boulder are the place. We might have a shit load of ass bags to deal with at the crags out here, but the NW as a nice share as well, I'm shure most of you guys have dealt with it in Leavenworth on a weekend in the fall.
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Bruce Miller is a bad mother fucker, probably one of the most talented all-rount climbers I have ever known. He lost a partner in the mountains not to long ago and didn't want it to happen again. From the account that I heard, Steve House was a little worse off than he described in the article.
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The route is super cool, I was able to do it last Sunday. Awsome long pitches. The climbing was only junky in a couple spots. Not as hard as I thought it would be, but still really cool. We didn't take enough pins though, only took three. Ranks up with the Talisman as my favorite ice/mixed route in Colorado.
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I second what everyone else has said. The weight and money you save on them is cancelled out by the lack of duribility and the time it takes to place them. Funny thing is that they will probably break while you are placing them so you won't have to rely on one of them for pro.
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Wunsch's is even better. It took me a second try to get the crux clean but it is way better than the center route. The approach is cake compared to other areas in Colorado, particularly estes park. People from boulder bitch if they have to walk for more than ten minutes to the base of the their route.
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It looks a lot like last summer up there but without the smoke from all the fucking forest fires, not yet at least. Topping out on climbs with a headache from the smoke pretty much sucks ass. Good weather for rock routes though, as long as they're not falling apart while you are on them.
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I agree with the above statement. If you need a topo for PC then you probably don't need to be climbing it. All the Belays/raps are fixed and pretty obvious.
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Start at base of obvious long waterfall, go right at big hanging piller about midway. follow ice to top, rap route with two ropes.
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Bridwell, and he still regualarly gets tickets for throwing his pig off el cap
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So what gear of his have you used? Probably a lot, since you're so sure that it works so well. Spill the beans. You don't seem to get it. BEING A GOOD CLIMBER DOESN'T MAKE YOU A GOOD DESIGNER. Indeed, being a 'cool guy' and/or 'the real deal' doesn't make you a good designer, either. I don't care what he's climbed, all it does is make a marketable image for his products. I have used the pack and the m-pants since the middle of January. The pack is great because it is super light, climbs well and accomadates both leashed and leasless tools, something that is good for me since I climb with both, depending on the route. The pack also has enough capacity to use on multiday routes or ski tours. It does have one or two uneeded extra's, but I just cut them off. The pants are the best of the type that I have used. I wore them on every ice/mixed route I climbed since I got them, probably spent about 25-30 days in them from mid january until late march. They are definately warmer than other stretch woven pants, they kept me comfortable on a very cold day on the Stanley Headwall this past winter. As someone said, the prices are high because he is trying to get the stuff produced locally, unlike Wild Things or similar companies who farm out to Asia. Fabrizio also has a new glove coming out next year that is going to be far and away better than anything out there, altough it is hard to beat a cheap pair of Atlas work gloves at this point for mixed climbing. I climb a lot more than most, so I am pretty fucking poor. This means I just don't go out and buy stuff on a whim, I buy it because it works. Do I "get it" now? J. J. Sill
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I second what Lambone said. I have run into Fabrizio many many times over the last two winters while I have lived and and climbed in Ouray and he has been very cool to be around whether he was guiding in the ice park or climbing with his friends. He is definately the real deal. For you to bag on him without even knowing a thing about him is a complete joke. He has been up K2 as well as the peaks Lambone mentioned and is a very stong all around climber from what I have seen. The gear he is producing comes from his own experience in alpine climbing, unlike most gear companies these days. Yeah, the stuff is expensive, but it is no more expensive and works much better than the some of crap that's out there. One other thing, the training info on his website is really good for anyone wanting to formulate a more stuctured training regime for themselves.
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Bellingham probably fits the bill better for the things you listed. Ouray is pretty good in the summer though. Mountaineering in surrounding peaks, tons of rock climbing-sport climbing in town(good granite in Unaweep Canyon, and long routes in the Black Canyon) and awsome spring skiing (powder skiing until early may last year), no real social life though. If you can figure out a way to work, Canada is the way to go.
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leavenworth might be good, lots of rock and alpine After living in Ouray, Levenworth will weem cosmopolitan, a pretty scary thought.
