Bill_Simpkins

Climb something else.

The second half was really good.

calling you now

Where exactly was the avi danger? Lets say your looking at the notch from the middle of the ski slopes......

Change of plans today. Just want to rope up, now! Chossy aid, TR, belay slave, don't care. PM me soon.

shelves.

I think the beta is great. No information is bad information. But if you are seeking adventure, then it may be abused a little. There are still a billion routes out there with no beta on them, however I think that maybe people get reliant on have tons of beta that their sense of adventure may be diminished.

The catalog must have a typo. Kind of was too good to be true. Thanks for the info.

Buy a really light rope, leave any quickdraws at home and just use spectra slings, heres the kicker: Tell your partner you'll carry the rope and the slings if they carry the tent...hehehehee. It works every time. I've never had to use more than a 2700 cu. inch pack, even for overnighters in winter. However sometimes it's been tight, I've been thinking about getting a 4000 cu. inch pack for when it's my turn to carry the tent. I've been looking at: Osprey Aether 60, 3 lbs 6 ounces, 3700 c.i., $200 Cold Cold World Chaos, 3 lb 7 ounces, 4000 c.i., $245 *** Arc'teryx Khamsin 62, 2 lb 4 ounces, 3790 c.i., $260 *** Good luck.

You got up Tomyhoi in this fresh snow? How was the approach and conditions? Did you get up the Twin Lakes road, or did you start down low and use the old trail?

Climbing is making progress towards an objective when the use of hands is required. Hiking is walking for pleasure or exercise.

Find your Russian climbing partner here!

When you feel all pumped and edgy, just relax. I'm not a rock ninja, but the hardest moves I've ever done were done in a relaxed state. Just breathe, smile and move gracefully. Look were you're putting your feet. Also, don't always waste time trying to find the perfect hold and/or grip. If it is good enough, go for it. Fishing around for holds makes me really tired. Also stressing out about falling and heights can tire you out alot.

I carry one for occasional use. It is so light and also doubles as a very very long runner. I use light 1/2 inch webbing, tied. I fold it in half and daisy-chain it up clipped to a locker for storage. Cordallettes are great if you are not swinging leads, otherwise I use the rope.

Good one Jay. I carry 30 of those, each with a locking biner. They make good weapons too!

Leave the pins at home unless you NEED them while climbing. If you can't solo a route because of bad ground anchors, find a partner, set up clean anchors higher, or do something else. The last thing I want to see close to the ground are pin scars.

I end up using a 3.5 (forged friend) almost every time I go out. The 0.75 DMM is magical.

#0.75,#1, #2,#3.5

I hate all TV ads.

After you get used to the extremely polished cracks and holds in the Valley, it's not to bad. None of the ratings suprised me. For the exception of GNS at Index, I think the Index ratings are a bit harder.

On the sattelite photo, the peak JUST left of north of the obvious Boot Lake, the one with the ridge going SW, is the Little Sister. Just to the SE of Little Sister and just right of north from Boot Lake is Cinderella Peak. The Green Creek Glacier is North of both, and there is a ridge winding NE from Cinderella Stopping the East side of that glacier. In short, Cinderella is 0.5 miles NE of Boot Lake. The East buttress is very clear in the image.

There is just one. Its by the water, but its huge, it was set there by a glacier. It's on a part of the beach many don't go to. There is a spooky overhang problem underneath it. It's kind-of near the Pink Wall.

between Clayton and Larrabee

I've wanted to do this route too. I guess just go Boot Lake and follow Beckey's directions. Click here for enlightenment