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Bill_Simpkins

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Everything posted by Bill_Simpkins

  1. Yep, and it was well worth it. I'm on the Atkin's diet now
  2. Those finger loops might get in the way. Especially while fisting or fingering cracks.
  3. Yeah Muffy, It's called Round River. It's a 3 pitch 5.4. first 2 pitches protect well, the 3rd, if you traverse left then go up is very poor rock. Very little pro, but really easy climbing. The rap off the back is nice.
  4. Ich bin ein Berliner!
  5. Big Hunk or Payday, depends on temperature.
  6. A0 anyone?
  7. I agree, a static belay is for the most part unrealistic and would be unscientific for the test. Do you know if the cam that broke was from the original accident? Or did that cam rip out in the experiment? If cams are freaking you out, use hexes or tricams. Better yet, hammer it up! ...... kidding. But if you use tricams, watch out for those , they love the webbing on the little pink ones! Sometimes when I get sketched, I take a controlled fall on purpose or hang from the gear to help boost my confidence.
  8. Not in Squamish book with yellow suppliment.
  9. Had a great weekend. Went trail running in the rain on Saturday. Went climbing at Mt. Erie on Sunday. Sunday was awsome. Got lots of sun. In this State, you just have to go to the right place.
  10. That happened to me too. Common sense overidden by routine. Entertaining. Is it me or are people getting dumber? I'm too young to know if they were always like that.
  11. It depends on the angle of the shaft, how far the pinky rest thing sticks out, and how hard the snow is. Most shafts now are bent and that may help in pulling it back out. It might take a little getting used to getting it in harder snow, depending on the tool. There may be a problem getting it caught on things like brush and rocks in light snow on steep approaches. I'm thinking about buying some good tools soon, so I like this discussion. I don't like the way a lot of the new tools swing. I used BD Prophets once, back in the day, I liked those, but I don't think they still make them. And those pinky rests/protectors seem awkward. I'm young, but I'm pretty old school. I do light alpine ice when it becomes an impass, not for entertainment, but it is entertaining none the less . Right now I use a alpine axe(wrap leash around adze to shorten it) and a Grivel Third tool (w/hammer).
  12. There is stuff to do in all weather in the NW. It is what you make of it. Sit around and gripe or go out and do something, your choice.
  13. I like the self Equalizing figure 8 for a 2 or 3 point belay. Fast and strong way to equalize 2 or three anchors points. The clove hitch and munter hitch are also favorites.
  14. Sorry about that. The guy at the gate made it sound like he was sticking around for a while. That sucks! I hope they figure it out. Thanks for the update.
  15. Bush seems like he's on a mission to destroy nature.
  16. I went up the back side of Stienbok ( in the Anderson Range) this Summer. The camp is still there. The owner is just sitt'in it out till he runs out of money and has to lay everyone off. If he's not there, I think access is required anyways. Just pull up to the gate and honk. You may have to wait a few minutes. Then you just bs a bit and he takes your plate number. I think he's broke and always low on ciggerettes, so he may be stoked if you bring him a pack. Steinbok and the surrounding peaks are AMAZING. That valley is one of the hidden jewels of the cascades. If you want any beta on the approach or descent just PM me.
  17. I think it's 5 miles from the car to the ridge. In winter, take ski's when the snow level is low. It's save TON-O-TIME on the way down to the car on the roads. TON-O-TIME. I've snowshoed it twice. DON'T!!!!! Unless you like needless pain and suffering. Everytime I shoed it in, some skiers passed me going mach 4 on the way back.
  18. Drop me a PM and I'll show you the N.T. approach in person if I have time. It is fairely straight forward, but if you havn't done it before there are a couple of little roads you could take by accident. The South Twin approach is a little more involved than the North. Takes a bit longer too. Did it late summer 2002 and had lots of bush wacking up and found the right trail on the way down. It is WAY better to cut up the snow on the side of the ridge than to follow the ridge completely. The start of the ridge takes too long and is overgrown. The actual scambling on the S.T. is a little easier, but more tedious, and you may need an ice axe for an upper snowfield (had to chop steps for my tennisshoes, hehe). Allow a lot more time for the S.T. than the N.T.
  19. Thanks, I'll be up there next week.
  20. 2 stars is PC. You just can't be above average in the Northwest, the hippies will think you have an ego, and one star means your a slacker to the yuppies.
  21. I have to vent. I don't watch the tube much, but from what I get is: CNN is CRAP. Bias, AOL commercials everywhere(because they are owned by aol/time warner), and they mostly only give good reviews to Time Warner films. There is little if any edjucational value. Crossfire is OK. That's about it. CNN is Crap. Anyone else agree? Any good news on "normal"cable that anyone knows of?
  22. Yeah. Our company has the "Stocks for Sheep" option. It's all tax deductable.
  23. I found it! Here you go. Buy your goat companion here, because you've been baaaahaaahaaaaaad!!
  24. It's funny how Bush annonced this on Christmas Eve too. A time it would get little notice from television "news". Who with a right mind could pass something so ridiculous without having an outside agenda? There is the possibility that Bush is setting it up so his company can get dirt cheap land and roads when he's out of office.
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