Bill_Simpkins

Do you wanna go now?

Fragrance Lake? Have you done it?

I'll get to that one on Oyster some day. The one I'm looking at hasn't been climbed before.........I think. I may have to aid it, it looks pretty tough. Just looking for a little adventure. So are you up for it?

Going to check out a crack I saw in the woods up on Chuckanut, by a popular lake. Hiking up and bringing gear with me just in case. I am leaving around 2:00 pm, after I get back from work. May just turn out to be a hike, but you never know. Guests with harnesses and belay devices welcome. PM me with a phone number if interested. -Bill

I'm planning to goof around doing the same at Larrabee on Saturday too!! Thats if I can't find something better to do. Thats tommorrow. PM me you fools!!!!!!!!

Looking for something to do Saturday. Sunday I have band practice all day.

nevermind, too late

Philfort said: BINGO!!!!!!!!

Proper: Bacon Peak.

Plexus. Correct. My previous pic was on Eldorado Glacier.

ok, a mile, more like 2. Your very close. popular route. Looking SE. ..........Wait!!!!!! my trusty map and ruler says 3 miles. My Bad. Eric8: Not Boston Peak, or might I say, not the pile of choss stuck in the Cascades.

Very close Klenke. Within a mile or two. I bet some people take this to the spot you mentioned. Here's another to keep you gremlin's happy.

Klenke, looks like Whitehorse with Three Fingers in Background. Where was this one taken from? It's easy!

The coeficients of static friction doesn't matter. When you compare the two in a ratio, that variable cancels out anyways, because the coeficient of friction is the same for both cases. Sitting down, most of the weight goes to your feet anyways. If you legs are on the ground, your feet arn't. Your butt is on the ground , but most of the force is still on your feet, but yeah, the butt does add a little friction, depends on surface area , weight and material. For some of you maybe, the surface area may help out quite a bit.

You can lead it, clean aid it, top rope it. Pro is good, like Eric said, place em tight. I'm going to Larrabee again today (Tuesday). I've never lead it free, I tried a few years ago, but I sucked then, so.....? I've aided it though, a little awkward at first through the bulge.

I am right handed.

I got the link, but wheres the story? It's all ads. How about a Russian wife Dru?

I like it too. I think everyone learned a bit about sitting and standing. Knowledge is power.

Me and my roommate were bored tonight, so we did a test in search of whats better, to sit or stand. Method: We live on the second floor, and one person hung over the edge of the deck and the other belayed from up top, we used a hip belay because we were too lazy to put on our harnesses. Results: Standing up was FAR superior to sitting down. It was much easier not to slide with a solid stance than it was sitting down. However, jerking motions were a little easier to manage sitting down because the center of gravity was lower, but if you were ready for the jerks, aka a solid stance with one foot forward and leaning back a little, it was still managable standing up. It was also hard to get traction sitting down. Reason: A force is divided into two components: its horizontal and its vertical. If "theta" is the angle that the rope makes with the edge, and W is the weight of the climber, the horizontal component is Wcos(theta), and the vertical component is Wsin(theta). When theta is larger, ie when you are standing up, there is more force pulling you straight down to the rock you are standing on, ie, more traction, and the less force pulling you toward impending doom. Lets take the following scenerio : Weight of Climber, ie tension in rope: 170 lbs, or 756 Newtons Height of Belayers waiste while standing 3 feet, or 0.9144 meters Height of belayers waiste while sitting: 10 inches, or 0.254 meters Distance of belayer from edge: 5 feet, or 1.524 meters Here we go : SITTING theta=arctan(0.254/1.524)=9.46 degrees Force towards cliff 756cos(9.46)=745.72 Newtons, or 167.64 lbs Force to feet 756sin(9.46)=124.25 Newtons, or 27.93 lbs STANDING theta=arctan(0.9144 /1.524)=30.96 degrees Force towards cliff 756cos(30.96)=648.29 Newtons, or 145.74 lbs Force to feet 756sin(30.96)=388.91 Newtons, or 87.43 lbs So when standing there is 3.13 times more force applied straight down to your feet, which is good because you can't travel through rock and you get 3.13 times better traction. There is also 1.15 times less force pulling you straight towards the edge.

I thought you were talking about sitting with a hip belay. My bad. But, Hmmmmm........I've practiced holding people standing with a hip belay. Doesn't feel too weird. I'm a big guy, that may make a difference. I really think people should practice this stuff. Get a safe environment and a backup anchor and belay for the climber. Then everyone gets some experience with it and they'll know what works for them. Can't hurt. I don't have a death wish, and I am very very cautious, and I'll take your advice to heart because you obviously have a ton of experience. Thanks. Myreal world experiences with "no-pro" belays have been in the mountains, usually on crappy rock, and not vertical. Sitting down was next to impossible because of the terrain. I think learning a good stance is essential. Every situation is very unique. In my opinion: sometimes it's better to sit, sometimes it's better to stand. With a vertical cliff and a clean, large ledge with no pro, and a belay device, I'd probably sit. I don't mean to hash this subject to death, so my apologies, and thanks for the good advice. Time to .

It's a few hundred yards south from the point where all the lovebird's hang out. I think its the 2nd or third point south. It's a killer finger crack through a bulge then hands above. Awesome! It goes at around 5.10 free, but is good aid practice also. I sent you a PM.

Have fun watching the Super Bowl, I'm off!

Last chance, I'm almost packed. Respond now. I'll be down there self belaying from a top rope and jumars, or bouldering at the point.