Bill_Simpkins

Thanks Trask

I need to buy one, any suggestions?

I don't understand the point of sitting down. When you stand, there is less force pulling you toward the edge and more force pulling you down to the ground your standing on, which is good. If there is a good edge to brace your feet, sitting down may be better.

Sitting by the wall across from the bar. Oh well, next time well figure it out.

I want to clean aid Desperation Crack, just for something to do. Then if there's time, boulder or aid something else. It's at Larrabee State Park in Bellingham. Anyone wanna join? I'm leaving around Noon.

So where was everyone? I went through two Black Butte Porter pints and a pitcher.

Rush Limbaugh's?

I know its a little old school, but when I have to belay on a ledge with no pro, or are on a long scramble route with many short pitches, I usually use a hip belay, if it's ok with my partner, I ask them FIRST. Advantages? Cause the wieght is put further away from the edge of the ledge and it's very fast.

17/20 Liberals are better at lying, conservatives just suck at at.

Alpine -------- 1.Rainier, Gib Ledges 2.Something in the Picket Range(Luna, Chopping Block, Or WMS) 3. Cinderella Peak(Sisters Range), 5.6 buttress Trad -------- 1. Dedrie, Squamish 2.The Kone, Darrington 3. Aid University Wall, Sqaumish Sport ------------ 1. On Line, Static Point 2. Local Boys Do Good, Sqaumish 3.All but the two routes I've already done at the Raven's Castle (I LOVE THAT PLACE), Sqaumish.

------------------------------ 8:00 @ THE BEAVER _______________________ BTW: For the out of towners, I have room for two to crash in my livingroom. I live 3 miles out on the Baker Hwy. I'm thinking about the North Twin, West Ridge on Sunday. Might leave and camp on Satuday, depends whos all going. If not, Erie or bouldering at Larrabee on Saturday. Anyone with a brain is welcome on both.

...In response to the method weighting the bottom 2:1... Actually its 1:1.5. Because the tension is halved between the pieces from the clove hitch on the bottom piece. Very good point though, and the bottom piece should be solid. However, doing the triangle could put an incredible amount force on both the pieces in the direction toward you. You would have to have the tension between the pieces EXTREMELY taught with the clove hitches to counter this or have pro that isn't so dependent on direction. The method I outlined also puts an outward force on the BOTTOM anchor , but not as much on the top anchor . The amount of outward force on the anchors in both cases depends on where you are standing. Also in the triangle method the caribiner is sliding around on that webbing under force. There would be lot's of movement. The rope and/or biner could possibly jam up in the upper biner and/or pro, does that sound reasonable? Has this ever been a problem, or am I thinking too much? The triangle way may be better for some situations though. I will do some tests at the physics lab, and simulate this on the computers there. I will measure the forces and angles on both to figure this out. Nice thread DFA! Come up to the Bham pub club!

I'm in. Friday? That's good for me. I vote Beaver. What time? 7:00 ?

The backed up square knot is good, but I still prefer the EDK. It's very fast, simple, and I've never had a problem untieing it.

The Cascades are rugged. The late summer tennis shoeascents are priceless. You get on the trail and you feel like 10,00 miles away from anything. But most of all, because this is my home and they are in it.

The only non-Neutrino's on my body when I climb are 3 light lockers and my belay/rappel locker. I love-em!!!!! I feel light as hell when I'm climbing, and the gear sling is more comfortable. I like this thread, because I didn't know about the DMM's. Thanks, I'll have to check'em out!

What I try to do for two pieces if the situation grants it: 1. I put in two pieces, say in a vertical crack, about 1.5-3 feet apart from each other. Both have biners. 2. Then I take a shoulder length runner, sewn, and with just one strand of the loop, tie a clove hitch on the bottom biner, then a clove hitch on the top biner, and make this strand of the runner tight between the two pieces. This keeps them in place. 3. Then I take the remaining part of the loop and run it back through the bottom biner, and clip another biner(preferrably a locker) to the end of the loop. 4. I then yank on it a few times real hard to check everything. 5. I run the rope through this biner. This method works for ME. Others may have reasons for doing it differently. I'd draw a picture, but my PSP trial just ran out (GETTO).

Both

Boring, what's that?

Satuday-climbing at Larrabee Sunday-Hiked up Goat Mt. and attempted to snoboard down. Not much snow in the mountains. The approaches rock.

"I"

I agree, Bellingham Pub Club. Keep me informed. Picks for spot, in order of preference.

Necro, that was funnier than shit! Brilliant. LMAO.

When the snow melts off under 5,000 feet, heres a good one . -Hike to Elbow Lake, go to North end, a couple hundred yards before the ribbons that take you up to Lake Wiseman(East side Sisters range), is a sweet spot for Drainaging!!!!! Devils club, slide alder, wet mossy rock slabs, water trickling on your boots. Wet, muddy dirt clumps to dyno too. Bring an ice axe for the self arrest!. Had to do lots of swing-arounds on weeds and bushes too. Then your rewarded by a nice trail back to the car. I give it 3.5 stars. The story is last summer we wacked from around Pioneer Camp up to the long rocky ridge above Wiseman. Took the ribbons back from the east side of the lake and got off coarse a little too far south right below a small null and ended up in drainaging heaven! FUN!!!!!!!!!

Cause we don't have three legs.