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Dustin_B

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Everything posted by Dustin_B

  1. I use em and love em. I've never had any problems telling which end opens. I agree the ends look 'similiar' but you can still tell the difference. Thats like saying you can't tell which end opens on a standard oval!
  2. More pics: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9815&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 Lane Peak from northeast http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9813&nocache=1 Looking down the Fly http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9812&sort=1&size=medium&cat=504 Camp on Reflection Lakes http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9814&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 Rainier
  3. I put some photos in the gallery: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 Lane from north http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 Lane/Zipper http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/show...=500&page=1 Lane/Fly http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9807&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 Lane/Fly http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9808&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 Lane/Fly (summit ridge)
  4. We scrambled up a gully just north of the ridge from the notch at the top of the fly. Then we came to another small notch on the north side and then a ~30-40 pitch lead to the ridge crest, another 3/4 of a pitch along the ridge lead to the summit. We went the same way you did. We actually had your trip report with us and it definitely came in handy a couple of times (thanks!) . you were very close to the top, but we had much better weather.
  5. Did you happen to follow some old track through some very steep trees just east of the peak? the correct route is to drop over this col around denman. Opposed to going directly down this drainage, which as you might have guessed is what I did. Why yes, I think we did just that. We encountered some very steep trees.
  6. I was at the other end of Toast's rope (green wind shirt, bottom right first photo). Thanks for the pictures . Did you have any bushwhacking issues getting down from Lane-Denman col? We certainly did!!
  7. check here: http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/messag...id=0&from=1 and here: http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/messag...id=0&from=1 first and last pages of a very extensive conversation...
  8. All that political non-sense if over rated and over hyped by the media. I wouldn't let that stop me from going (and I'm not). Millions of people are getting along just fine.
  9. Standard flight to KTM is through BKK (Bangkok). There is a ton of stuff to do during a stopover in Thailand or Singapore. Try to take a week or two if you can. You won't regret it. PM me if you have any specific questions about what to do there, I just returned from there (pre-tsunami).
  10. PS - now I use Kayland Multitractions, they are pretty sweet but not quite as stiff as the trango S, but more comfortable for walking in, and they are waterproof!
  11. Only get the waterproof version of the Trango S. I have the non-wp version and they aren't not, in any way, even water-resistant. After about 30 mins in snow they are soaked through. Went on a four day trip with these and hated them, they never dried. I'll never buy non-wp mountaineering boots again. And make sure you get the right size. My were a half size to small and that sucked. I used them for two years getting wet and cramped feet before I retired them. Screw that.
  12. There are several good national parks in southern utah that are deserted this time of year. And with an average of like 9" of precip a year means that there is usually not that much snow there. Great weather, just a little chilly. I was in the area in Jan. and was the only one at the car campgrounds on the weekdays. nice. try that in the spring or fall.
  13. Dustin_B

    '08

    I’m voting for a constitutional amendment to allow 3rd terms.
  14. I have a pair of LS Nepal Extremes in a size 11.5 and my Grivel G12s work fine with a little room to spare. I would assume the G12s and G14s are sized the same since the only difference is the front points.
  15. I have the MHW Epic pants you mention. They are okay. Not super breathable. Goretex is still more breathable IMHO. On the upside they only weigh 10 or 11 ozs. But recently I've been carrying wind pants that only weigh 3 or 4 ozs, since (like you) they spend most time in the bottom of my pack.
  16. Mt. Kinnabalu in Sabah (Borneo) is a nice chunk of granite (4095 m). Good luck getting permission to climb it without a guide though.
  17. YYYYYYYYYYYyeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww!!! I'm back! Well, well, well. Look whats happened since I've been away.... hmmmm. I'm going to bite my tongue and not say anything. But I will type something: told ya so! Its too bad I missed all the action. But it looks like things turned out okay for everyone. Whats up with the snow situation here? Driving back into WA on I-90 yesterday, Snoqualmie Pass looks like it did last June!! Who is to blame for this? (Okay, you can officially move this to spray now. oops its already there...)
  18. Well I've got some time to kill in the Tokyo airport and free internet access The reason I didn't put this in spray is because I'm going to maybe climb some thing over there and post some pictures and/or a TR and there isn't a southeast asia forum!!
  19. I'm leaving tomorrow morning to spend 3 months in Southeast Asia! Since I will be unable to vote in the presidential election this time (didn't get my absentee ballot yet ) could someone who was not planning to vote do me a favor and go vote for Dubya for me? Not that he really needs my vote since he is going to win anyways, but what the heck! Also, I will not be here in November to say this so I'll say it now, "YEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!! four more years, four more years, I told y'all we'd do it." I'll try to post some pictures at some point. later cc.com'ers
  20. Shit, thats nothing. I once new some pretty devoted Nadar supporters that round-tripped the entire Temple ridge in under 4 hours. Those guys are faster than either Reps or Dems, IME..... Seriously, that is wicked fast for those two routes. I'm just a gaperific newbie so I was pleased with our time. I think next time we could easily knock 2 hours off the trip. I bet - could do it in like 3:52 though...
  21. On saturday on top of Prusik, 8,000 feet, it felt like it was 70 degrees. That would be quite a change in weather but I guess it could happen. When it started raining at Aasgard pass (7800ft) Saturday afternoon it was still quite warm. I don't suppose this post is of any help.....
  22. Thats what the Dude said.
  23. No, quite the opposite actually. We pitched everything out from the balanced rock. Me and one other guy. I could see how from my brief trip report one could guess that though. I hear people simul the first two pitches but there is one spot on the second pitch with a fixed #1 cam that I was glad to have a proper belay for. I don’t think that move was 5.5, felt harder, but then again I suck.
  24. Climb: Prusik Peak-West Ridge Date of Climb: 8/21/2004 Trip Report: Climbed the west ridge of Prusik on Saturday. 15 hours, 24 min, car-to-car, from the Colchuck lake trailhead. Rained the last 3 hours of the hike out. This was my first trip into the Enchantments and I was blown away. It is beautiful up there. Saw two other guys on the way up to the base that were "working on a line on the south face of the west ridge"??? Gear Notes: Nuts (3-10), couple of hexes, couple of tricams, and cams to #3 cam. Couuld have done without #3. small cams not much use either. Plenty of natural pro to sling. Approach Notes: Didn't seem to far going in, but its a long way out.
  25. is the word you are looking for "crack"?
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