Dustin_B

You're single until you're married unless you're whooped.

My post wasn't directed at you, although you sure did take it personally.

When ever I see people TRing or lowering off chains I have to hold myself back from saying something. I don't see it very often though. I use to think it was ignorance, no I just think it is lazy. I didn't think climbers were lazy....

Nice TR. Thanks. I remember we had the same problems a couple years ago trying to find the trail off of easy ridge. We swacked around for a while (~1.5 hours) down and left and finally found the trail. We had taken a gps waypoint (only one unfortunately) and couldn't locate it. sounds pretty similar to what you just did

If you're going this weekend, you'll probably have it all to yourself.... If you run into a fixed #1 cam, you are on a more difficult variation of pitch ~3? (and what I thought might have been the crux of the route)...

When I did WR stuart, we planned on bivying on route and did, just above the west ridge notch. It is one of my most memorable climbing/camping experiences. The only thing we added to our packs that we wouldn't have had on a day climb is a little more food a 1.5 lbs sleeping bag. We had a perfect forecast so we took no bivy sacks, we sleep on our packs so we had no pads, there was no snow to melt so we took no stove. It was aswesome. Next time I might try to bivy on the summit seeing as how we were only ~400 feet from the summit anyhow. I just don't see the car-to-car push as a big weight savings in that situation. We did pass a guy coming down that route that was soloing it in a day. He had a water bottle clipped to his harness and a rope on his back (he had just rappeled down from LJT). I need more gear than that whether its a car-to-car or overnight trip!! But back to the original post, although I haven't done it, I think the route that most people spend more than the expected amount of time on is a pretty obvious one, lib ridge. I guess you could make the arguement that those unplanned, subsequent nights are not unexpected bivies though.

Hmmm. yep, I'll have to remember that for next time... We were on Blueberry route on Saturday. It was hot but there was an occasional cool breeze. I ran out of water on about pitch 3-4. yada, yada, yada. When I stood up and shouldered my pack to begin the hike down the granite sidewalk I was stumbling and almost puking and slurring words. On the bright side we had the route to ourselves..... (we stopped at Blueberry Terrace as we didn't have the time/energy/water to make it to the top). good times, sort of. Mattp - you had a sweet little campsite there!

thanks, I just found the thread: clicky, click

How far is the road open? I think there was a thread about access here a little while back but I can't find it. Anyone got it?

Thanks for the TR, good work. NR Adams is on my tick list. Kenp - nice avatar pic!!

For a route like that, why would you need a pack? We took a pack. We threw our shoes in there because we didn't want to do the descent in rock shoes (but we ended up rappelling down the route in our rock shoes...). also took a first aid kit, jackets, a little food, a little water, and TP.....

We stopped at the large ledge above the last of the chicken heads. The next pitch would have been a chimney type thing but it started to rain and we knew it would take a while to get down the route (3 of us). So we bailed from there. I think above the Chimney was the top, no? That route is awesome. I didn't so much like the approach gulley. We had to rope up for this one part of it which slowed us down. Then it took us 3 single rappels to get down the gully on the way out! Felt like an alpine climb. I would definitely still do it again though. All those huge chicken heads are incredible. Fun stuff!!

Not only on Sunday. We were on Champagne on Saturday and got to watch the excitement on OS unfold. There were no less than 6 parties on that route. It was jam packed the whole day (well at least from about noon on when we got up there...). Every pitch I could see had climbers on it at one point. Then only the upper pitches were packed as it became too late to start the route. One party of 2 or 3 turned around at 2-tree ledge. The last party topped out in the pouring rain around 6:30-7 PM!! Its a good thing the 1 or 2 parties below them turned around. shit. We were hoping that last party got down okay as we passed their packs at the base on the way out. I got some cool pics of OS from up on Champagne I'll try to post at some point. What a cool place to check out OS from PS - no one else on Champagne besides us....

All the reps are out working and making money while all the libs are unemployeed and spraying on the net.

how many people can climb 5.14? can't a 10 year old do that or something? how many people did what Ed did? enough said.

My buddy was in the first climbing party of that day, ahead of the "slow party". It was his first time on OS. He said it was an awesome day and an awesome route and had zero complaints about the day. he said he talked to the folks in the "slow party" at one point (lower down?) and they seemed like nice folks. he didn't see/speak to them again once he was up higher. He said as they were descending he was surprised to see so many groups still on the route. I guess there is a lesson here, but I'm not going to say it because its too obvious and everyone complaining knows what they should have done. There is a reason my buddy started early.... to the "slow party". good on ya for getting out there. ignore the idiots on this board. they are so anyways.

I guess this post got deleted in the glitches too and I already typed it twice yesterday!! I was at Gritscone on Saturday and the only routes without hangers are the .7,.7, and .5 on the right side of the 'main wall'. The other routes to the left of those all had new (or old) hangers. I forgot to check on the 5.7 and .9 around the left side. I saw some interesting characters out there...

Does anyone have a link to this thread? Yes, I tried a search.

I guess you are going to end up with just a climbing partner then as that pretty much weeds everybody here out for dating material. Just don't request that a suitor be rich too or you'll be single for life!

Really? did the person you were corresponding with at FF say that? I'm not familar with conduit "sl", but just plain ole Conduit has a laminate and anything with a laminate is not going to be as breathable as something without. I'm not in the "industry" or anything, but I think Epic is much more breathable than any of those fabrics. any one care to back me up? Thanks for the info though. I went with the Pertex Quantum.

right on! were there still top anchors for those short routes? if memory serves, I believe there are chains on the top? I was thinking about taking a first timer out there sometime soon.

BD harnesses are made over seas too. Western Mountaineering, Stevenson's (Warmlite), North Face (kidding)

I was on that block a couple of weeks ago. it still feels 'solid'. I just try not to think about it and just climb over it. When that think goes it going to bump the grade up to like a 5.6- or something...

Lane Peak The obvious couloir up the center is the fly. You can't make out the zipper from here but it angles up left from the snowfield at the base of the fly. Lover's Lane is a very thin streak on the left. to which ever route you did

From left to right (looking at the north face) they are Lover's Lane, the zipper, and the fly. Whey you said "middle" I was thinking you meant the zipper. When we were up there in the middle of march the zipper was looking somewhat 'thin' for March. We climbed the fly. I would imagine the zipper is looking really thin right now! hence why I asked. perhaps there is another couloir to the right of the fly?