catbirdseat

Dude, you can do whatever you like on lead, but when it comes to RATING a climb, it must be based on what features a reasonable person of average stature would use.

In my book, if you can reach the crack you are using to protect the climb, the feature is "in".

So why is it that falling out of the top results in injury? Is it because it steepens combined with pro pulling out or no pro? I remember getting in a Green Alien and a Blue Alien right before the pod. They nested in there pretty securely, so that they most likely would have held a fall, at that low fall factor.

Mr. Lucky lost its liquor license last year for 180 days because they couldn't control the people who were its customers. If you can show that there has been as many lawless acts as at Mr. Lucky's you stand a chance of shutting them down too. Step one is to collect data on police calls and arrests over the past two years. Step two is to start writing the newspapers to get public opinion on your side.

Yoder has Air Guitar down as a 5.10a. I would agree that it is easy for the rating. George and Martha is way harder for the same grade. Steel Grille is harder even though Yoder gives it a 5.9. Someone asked about Disaster Factor, 5.8. Both MCash and I think it's pretty stiff for the rating. Yoder has Sensemilla down as 5.10c. I was able to lead it and had never led at that level before. On the other hand stemming is something I do well. I've heard others say it's more like 5.10b.

Jens, I couldn't disagree with you more. I enjoy both the trad lines as well as ths sport lines. I think the sport climbs that are most popular are not the best ones. People like the arete routes just because they are like climbing in the gym. The best routes are, as you say, on the entableture, down at such places as Millennium Wall, M&M Wall, etc.

The Nepalese government ought to charge him triple fees. At least some good would come out of his death. They could build some schools or hospitals.

Top rope, lead or boulder. PM by 7 pm if you are interested.

I am pretty sure my pulse rate won't go as high as 178.

This weekend I saw not one, but two fellows standing around the Feathers at Vantage wearing heavy mountaineering boots and gaitors. Sadly, the ensemble was not completed by shorts over polypro, but we can't have everything.

No normal person talks about their sex life on the Internet. BTW, whatever happened to Bobby Peru?

No it is a chastity belt.

I finally led Disaster Factor. I placed a Camalot 4.5 below the first chockstone, then slung that, and pulled the Camalot, I placed a #4 Bigbro about halfway between chockstones. Finally, I chickened out and placed a big nut in the crack to the right before squeezing into the crack below the big second chockstone and hauling up onto it, what I thought was the hardest move. I didn't bother to sling it because once on top of if you have a nice little crack that takes all sorts of nuts. I placed the big camalot up under the leaning slab to protect the exit move. I think this route can be led with no big gear at all if you are willing to use that crack to the right.

My daughter is addicted to Nutella. There is always a brown smudge on the cutting board.

That would be me. That was a fun group you had. All good people.

That is indeed a route name, but it is rather crappy trad route at the near end of Sunshine Wall- "Climb through exfoliating red rock". Clearly a Robins FA.

To my knowledge, it is not yet closed. We climbed there on Saturday along with a large group of folks from the UW. We had a fun time top roping Jihad. I'd have to say I'm not quite up to leading that one.

I'm unemployed and available to climb. Good thing your standards are low. It looks like a pretty wet week, but one never knows. We could get lucky on Thursday. There's always Nevermind Wall and WW I.

MCash and I found one of the old signs on the Middle East Wall ledge trail. It had been chucked off the cliff above. It was one of the "Don't Bust the Crust" signs. We left it there as we figured it would be safer there. What it needs is to have the aluminum bolted on top of a steel plate and then the post set in concrete.

Been using Search again Dru?

That trombone looks like it is kind of flat to me.

I don't think that a boot seal will make the palms more slippery if you use a modest amount and work it into the leather. It will make them more waterproof, but not protect against abrasion.

It is in Yoder's book as House of Cards, 5.8, ten clips. Beware the dreaded Z-clip on that one! Despite what the book says, and by appearances, most of the loose rock has been cleaned by the high traffic this route sees. It is popular because it is so close to the parking lot and stands out like a sore thumb, as the only sport route on Agathla Tower.

You know you are a redneck when you use redneck jokes to pad your post count.

Second move is called, "They told me I should have used a snowboard for this trick- I guess I found out why!"