catbirdseat

Of course, need I add, that if you use an axe it would be a technical axe.

If you do as he says you had better keep your nose clean and stay out of trouble. If you climb with Fred, don't let him drive so you won't get pulled over by the RCMP.

I guess it all depends on the route and how technical it is. There is a problem if one doesn't have the skills to climb Liberty Ridge with a tool and an axe. The ice climbing isn't that hard, and in the event you do encounter a tough ice step, you borrow your partners other ice tool.

I think Mt. Baring is part of it.

If you are travelling roped on a glacier and your partner falls into a crevasse, what are you going to arrest with, your 45 cm ice tool. No, you want an ice axe! It's one thing to say "I'm not going to fall". It's another to say you'll avoid crevasse falls 100% of the time.

I'll be in Squamish the entire second week in June and thus far don't have climbing partners lined up. The Brew Pub is where all the climbers go and a great place to find partners.

Clearly that is true, but rope drag goes up, communication becomes difficult, and also fall potential because of the greater stretch of the rope and/or gear zippering out. Plus my belayer was a newbie. If I were absolutely certain I couldn't fall on the Catapult, I'd have done it. I fall in the more timid category.

i would have gotten shot. i was more of a loud mouth in college than i am now That is difficult to imagine.

You all throw your chairs or desks at him.

Mark Glidden was working on a route at Tieton's Oasis. There was a block near the top of the second pitch of is route The Fan. He and Yoder tried to trundle that rock using a crowbar. They couldn't get it to go. It feels loose though. Very weird sensation to use that block as a hold. You can get past without touching it, but it makes it much harder.

Remind me sometime when we are climbing together and I'll teach you the Mule Knot. It is easy to tie. It is better for tying off your partner because it can be released when weighted. It comes in handy in rescues and escaping the belay.

I think the rock came off of the arete to the left of the dihedral. I was perhaps stemming wider than many people would and that might explain how I found some loose rock to dislodge.

Please tell me those extra bolts were photoshopped in there! Not only a bolted crack but the bolts are every 12 inches. You could clip every fifth one!

Not his mouth per se, but a spokesperson.

You wonder if the guy (Shrub) actually has feelings. How could anyone make such a statement at this time if he or she had an ounce of empathy for the bereaved?

Is there some way to put a "test load" on the flake? If one knew how much force a cam would exert if fallen on, then one could calculate the size lever necessary to test the strength of the flake.

No, I never saw a hex, but there is a cam stuck on the start to The Bone just off the right side of the ledge. I looked at it and decided it wasn't worth fooling with. I think a determined individual might get it out. It was a U-stemmed green Camalot, I think, I am not certain though. We did get a #1.25 Friend out of Saber though. Nice condition too.

No, as I said Catapult. Catapult has two pitches. I suppose you could do it as one with a 70 m rope if you moved the belay up from the tree. This was below The Bone and below Stoner's Ledge. You gotta stop at Stoner's Ledge though. It's such a cool place to hang out.

That's strange. I have never had a tent shrink on me, but I have had certain anatomical components shrink drastically while looking up various steep rock pitches.

Leading the first pitch of Catapult on lower Castle Rock, I dislodged two fist-sized chunks. Fortunately, they missed my belayer. I can't be certain there isn't more loose stuff, so keep your eyes open of you climb there. Consider belaying behind the rappel tree.

"The president believes that there is a right for people to bear arms, but that all laws must be followed," spokeswoman Dana Perino said. Unbelievable.

Post deleted by catbirdseat

Fred uses his Subaru as a gear room. Then when he needs stuff, he throws it all out on the road and sorts through it. He's got a system. Not a good system, but A system.

You could also start at the bottom from Heart Lake Road. Follow the fence to the right of the power lines. Take the left fork that goes under the lines. Then take the next left, followed by a right and you are there.