catbirdseat

Here lies trask His tongue was a rasp Not one to miss a swipe Though his posts were tripe

Yeah, I'm baffled all the time. Remember, if you can't dazzle them with your brilliance, you can always baffle 'em with your bullshit.

You are on a snaffle harvest today, MtnMouse.

Is he eventually going to have three wives and twenty-five children?

It's every bit as assinine as a constitutional amendment to ban flag burning, nose picking, or farting in church.

My dad and I once cut down a 50 ft Canary Island Pine of 16" diameter that was growing within 3' of his house. We wanted to make absolutely sure it would fall towards the street and not towards the house, so we tied a really long rope (75ft) about half-way up the tree and took it to a truck on the other side of a cul-de-sac. We tensioned up the line really well and then cut. The tree went exactly the direction we wanted and didn't hit anything.

The fact that AlpineK and I have met doesn't prevent him from slamming me on occassion, although usually when he does, I deserve it.

Indeed, Dru accounts for about a quarter of the posts on this site.

Gee, this Cold Feet thread has legs. In my experience not only does aspirin thin the blood, but it seems to aid in maintaining or restoring hydration.

I've done that same and it is a bummer. Don't use your home dryer. Use one of those humongous commercial ones at the laundromat. Two or three tennis balls work better than one.

The rain is here, wish I was beautiful.

Well, let me put it this way. Some of the people I have talked to made it sound like the Second Coming.

When he was first given his voice synthesizer machine, he was asked how he liked it. He answered that other than the fact that the voice had an American accent, he liked it just fine.

Movie Reviews

Yes, that's exactly what I am talking about. Clipping the same rope twice or more in a row and not the other. Between this post and my last I read some material that made me change my mind. When you fall on one rope, all the stretch goes out of it right? If that same rope is through the next piece below, that piece receives a larger impact because the stretch is gone. If, however, the other rope is through that piece, it can stretch a lot more and absorb more force. Does that make sense? From reading at the Canadian's site about screamers, it seems to me that if you a) fall on a piece and b) the screamer fires and c) the piece fails and d) all the stretch is out of the rope, then you would prefer the other rope be through the next piece because all of its stretch is intact and it can better absorb your impact forces.

A minor point.

We're all just waiting for someone to post a gross plegm picture. Bug must have a pic of one of his larvae running "dual carbs".

Yes, that is why we have lawyers.

Your brain is leaking out.

Here is the post that I thought was the best from that thread: quote]"Posted by Rich (161.184.45.72) on January 14, 2004 at 22:37:44: In Reply to: Double 8.6 vr. Single 8.6 posted by PONY on January 14, 2004 at 22:09:17: Hopefully you've heard this answer to your question before, but if you haven't here's my 2 cents. Double ropes weren't designed to take all the force of a fall on one strand, they were designed for wandering routes where gear is located in various locations, often off to the sides of the climber. Basically the point being that with gear on both sides a climber who falls ultimately would end up below the gear with the ropes each taking some of the load (hard to describe without pictures). Strictly speaking, ice climbers who climb in relatively straight lines and often space out their gear such that a fall would result in one rope taking all the load should not be using double rope technique where each strand is alternately clipped. Having said that I find double ropes very useful when ice climbing, both for the extra safety of two strands and lower impact forces on marginal gear. But I also try to place gear such that I'm not trusting only one rope in the event of a large fall. I've not found any reason, other than really high impact forces, not to clip both ropes if I'm expecting to run it out a long ways between individual pieces (if the screw is bomber the increased impact force shouldn't be a problem). If the gear isn't bomber then I place two pieces relatively close together, one for each strand. The amount of slack that tends to be in the system means that if I were to fall (and I have) I'll probably end up dangling from both screws (and ropes) as they were meant to work. As a side note, some of the newer 8mm half ropes are thin enough that they blur the line between half and twin ropes and therefore avoid some of the problems I just mentioned around impact force. Ultimately I guess you could do whatever you want, though I'm sure it won't be long before you can go down to the store and pick up an 8.6mm single rope, making any in depth debate somewhat meaningless." My take then is that it doesn't matter much if you alternate, providing you clip each to a separate piece soon after the belay to avoid a high fall factor load on any one rope.

I wasn't taking about clipping both ropes into a single piece. What I was referring to was alternately clipping the first rope to a piece and then the other rope to the next piece, etc. On rock I can see the importance of alternating, because that way if falling rock cuts one rope you've got the other.

The fifth amendment says, "...nor shall any person be subject for the same offence to be twice put in jeopardy of life or limb...". It doesn't say "property".

If you are using double ropes on ice and assuming the route does not meander from side to side, does it matter whether or not you alternately clip the two ropes?

So it is.