catbirdseat

Most of the bolts have been modernized. There is an occasional old bolt.

The guy who asked for the beta was a novice climber on his first trip to the Enchantments, okay? I was answering his specific questions.

...and the eensy, weensy spider climbed up the spout again.

Funny thing is I have never heard of anyone ever falling on that move, so you you must be right.

Nope, I did not. I've climbed many 5.9s in Darrington that were easier than that one move. You can call it what you like.

Hell no! I'm no fan of regulation. I'm just telling it like it is. That's the story of the FDA. New regulations are put on the drug industry every time someone dies. Regulation is reactive.

Ouch! That had to hurt.

Regulation in this country has always been on an "as needed" basis. Thus far, climbing gyms have done a pretty good job of maintaining a safe environment. There has been no need for regulation. Now climbing has come to carnivals and may require regulation. I hope climbing gyms DO NOT get sucked in. All the red tape would surely increase the overhead and put upward pressure on prices. Anything that you have to pay to use is a potential target for regulation.

Get there before 7 am. On any day except for Thursday and Friday, you'll have an excellent chance of getting a permit. If you fail to get a permit, try visiting Caroline Lakes. It's almost as nice.

I got an e-mail from for more beta for Prusik. I figured I might as share what I wrote with everyone. [Yes, I know this info is all available elsewhere]

Okay, I have to admit, I saw it in RC.com. But this is so bizarre. Fatal Fall from Inflatable Wall

I found a bright yellow cordelette on the route. I bootied it. I couldn't figure out why it was left behind. It sort of looked like it was used to rappel, but I looked and couldn't find anything that looked like a burn mark on it. What's the story?

Climb: Enchantments Climbing-The Temple/ High Priest/ Prusik Date of Climb: 6/4/2005 Trip Report: On Friday, James, Erin, Dawn and I hiked in to Tamarack Meadows via Nada Creek and set up camp on a nice knoll with views (7 hours). We then climbed The Temple (5 hours). That climb involved an ascent of a steep snow finger and a one pitch rock climb of a 5.6 slab protected by one ancient rusty 1/4 inch bolt. Neat summit with a great view. Back to camp by 6 pm. Snow was soft with occasional postholing to hips. On Saturday, we cramponed on nice hard snow to High Priest and did the North Face route. It took 4 pitches even though the guide book says three (50 meter ropes)and we pretty much used all the rope on each pitch. Summit at noon. Bootied a lost belay device from one crack and a carabiner from another using a chock pick taped to a trekking pole. Exciting double rope rap to the descent gully. Found a rodent eaten green jacket that Erin brought back for a laugh. Traversed below the south face of Prusik and climbed the West Ridge. Started at 2 pm and summit at 4 pm. Back to packs by 6 pm. Rather nasty slog back to camp with much postholing in soft snow. James showed good routefinding skills to get us back by 8:30 pm. Went to bed for a well-deserved sleep. Woke up at 4 am to sound of snow on the tent. Pulled our boots inside and closed the door. A little snow had fallen on the ends of our sleeping bags. Dozed a little longer and then got up to a cold, wet camp. It was a very wet and soggy hike back. The wildflowers were incredible. I might have enjoyed them more if my pack weren't so heavy. Met a couple guys on the trail who had hiked in on Saturday to do Prusik and had to leave empty handed. Lunch at Duck Boys and beers all around. Everyone agreed it was a fun and memorable climb. This was Erin's first alpine climb. For Dawn, it was her first alpine lead. For me it was my first alpine climb since last year when my buddy had his accident on Stuart. On the ride back with Dawn, we got a flat tire under the Convention Center. Her crappy tire iron woundn't work, but I finally figured out how to get the nuts loose by bracing the iron on the jack and standing on the iron. Those f'ing mechanics and their air wrenches! Gear Notes: Crampons, Axe, Light Rack Approach Notes: Snow above 7,000 ft

If you go into the hardware store in Naches, don't ask for "biners". You should either ask for "b-eye-ners" or "carabiners". I am not kidding.

You are cruel.

There's a good reason for not liking hexes.

We were well off, but not rich. My Dad, an architect, built the house in 1962 for $40,000. Much of the finish work he did himself. My Mom put her entire pension and life savings of $15,000 into it, and there was an 18 year mortgate of $25,000. The mortgage was paid off in 1980. Since then there has been a significant amount of appreciation in property values, to say the least.

I hadn't heard that term "abackeroff" before. That's amusing.

Work sucks, doesn't it?

We should go after the terrorists only and not entire countries. That way we don't make more terrorists than we are able to kill.

I couldn't remember whether it was Five Summer Stories or Endless Summer, so I googled it. The source I came up with was wrong! I thought the Internet was always the gospel truth! Honk used to do free concerts at UC Irvine. They'd snake power cords out into the brown, grassy fields out back of the campus and jam for the students.

Here's a topo of the affected area. Courtesy of Topozone

The house just left of center at the top of the photo is the one in which I grew up and where my mother still lives. I still have not been able to get in touch with her. I think she has been evacuated. I'm pretty sure the house is going to be okay though. Story and Pictures The one that went down at the left side belonged to Lou Wright. His son had a rock band called Honk that rehearsed in the garage. Honk provided the sound track to the surfing movie Endless Summer.