catbirdseat

Facinating reading. It shows how profit motive can corrupt good science or at least the dissemination of information.

You are so lucky, man. Enjoy it and have fun!

Well, locally some guys recently caught a guy trying to steal a vintage camaro. They tried to detain him. He fought back. They put him in a choke hold and he died. The DA decided not to prosecute.

Great integration of photos and text. Very enjoyable TR.

One man's trash is another man's...

Too late, I already know where it is. The hub cap idea would be a nice touch, though. Better bolt it on with tamperproof bolts. You know how those hub caps are in demand these days.

At least she doesn't like sex very much WITH YOU. Same advice. Move on.

I figured Fairweather wouldn't have overlooked this one. I read in the PI today how a high ranking Chinese diplomat, who was also a spy, tried to defect in Australia. He told them about rampant spy activity by the Chinese delegation. Not only did they not honor his wishes, but they ratted him out to the Chinese government. They did offer him "protection", whatever that means. Basically, the guy is in hiding now. Australia has been selling billions of dollars worth of raw materials to the Chinese and doesn't want to rock the boat. They have already declared that they will not come to the aid of Taiwan, should the PRC attack it. Can the US be far behind?

REI reminds me of Home Despot. I have a greenhouse with orchids in it. My air circulating fan conked out in January. I went to HD to buy a new one, anything with a blade that spins around. I was told that they don't carry fans in winter. I scrounged one up eventually in the attic.

Beta is like bolts, you can skip 'em if you find the climbing easy.

It seems to me that compared to non-flaring cracks, flaring ones would accept a wider range of offset cams, which is kind of nice. If what you happen to have is large, set it towards the outside. If what you have is small, set deeper. I'd like to get one or two offsets for Joshua Tree. Seems like they'd see plenty of use.

Most of the bolts have been modernized. There is an occasional old bolt.

The guy who asked for the beta was a novice climber on his first trip to the Enchantments, okay? I was answering his specific questions.

...and the eensy, weensy spider climbed up the spout again.

Funny thing is I have never heard of anyone ever falling on that move, so you you must be right.

Nope, I did not. I've climbed many 5.9s in Darrington that were easier than that one move. You can call it what you like.

Hell no! I'm no fan of regulation. I'm just telling it like it is. That's the story of the FDA. New regulations are put on the drug industry every time someone dies. Regulation is reactive.

Ouch! That had to hurt.

Regulation in this country has always been on an "as needed" basis. Thus far, climbing gyms have done a pretty good job of maintaining a safe environment. There has been no need for regulation. Now climbing has come to carnivals and may require regulation. I hope climbing gyms DO NOT get sucked in. All the red tape would surely increase the overhead and put upward pressure on prices. Anything that you have to pay to use is a potential target for regulation.

Get there before 7 am. On any day except for Thursday and Friday, you'll have an excellent chance of getting a permit. If you fail to get a permit, try visiting Caroline Lakes. It's almost as nice.

I got an e-mail from for more beta for Prusik. I figured I might as share what I wrote with everyone. [Yes, I know this info is all available elsewhere]

Okay, I have to admit, I saw it in RC.com. But this is so bizarre. Fatal Fall from Inflatable Wall

I found a bright yellow cordelette on the route. I bootied it. I couldn't figure out why it was left behind. It sort of looked like it was used to rappel, but I looked and couldn't find anything that looked like a burn mark on it. What's the story?