catbirdseat

It got it. Gravity <---> Bones Picture a populace composed of gelatinous masses.

Okay, everyone gets condoms, but gravity? If it weren't for gravity, besides drifting into space, there wouldn't be much point to climbing would there?

Doubtless, I should take more of his advice.

JayB's Weak-Ass One Liner thread gave me an idea. I have even searched to see if it's been done before. Apparently not, although I guarantee Dru could prove me wrong. So let's hear all the compromises you can think of. Examples: Compromise between self-equalization and no-extension. "Tastes Great- Less filling" The trade-off of taste for calories.

Life, birth control, you name it!

Why yes, I think it is true.

Jay, there is no perfect method of building an anchor. All methods have their trade-offs. As long as the pieces that comprise the anchor are separated from one another you cannot have perfect self-equalization and no-extension at the same time. You can only have compromises.

I built one of these Equalette anchors using the rail on my mantle. Let's call the anchor points arrayed horizontally from left to right, A, B, C and D. What I found is that once the anchor is equalized by adjustment of the clove hitches, any movement to the left will begin to put all the load on B and D. Movement to the right will begin to load up A and C. If A and B are vertical and C and D are also vertical in a square configuration, the anchor is now perfectly equalizing in the horizontal plane, but now it no longer equalizes in the vertical plane. If A, B, C and D are linear in a vertical array then you have the opposite of the first case. That is perfect equalization in the horizontal plane by virtue of "pivot", but imperfect equalization in the vertical plane. The last case is A and B horizontal with C and D also horizontal below A and B, again in a square configuration. This would be the best of all because self-equalization is more important in the vertical plane. Horizontal equalization can be built into the system statically because it is easier to anticipate direction in that plane. Oh, crap, now I've done it. That was way too technical. What is the take home message for the Equalette? That if you build it in a single linear crack, put the pieces that "share a knot" relatively close to one another.

For some reason, and maybe it's just me, but I find sarcasm as unbecoming in JoshephH as it is in JayB.

Sure you didn't get cold feet and ASK a mod to do it. Hmmm...?

Do you think someone's feelings will get hurt in a popularity contest?

It's easier for the French to see what they are giving up than what they will gain. They will gain because it will become MUCH easier to get a job. They will gain because productivity will go WAY UP along with the economy and ultimately wages.

You are such a loser.

What Ade said.

Well, duh, it obviously wasn't English.

Is that anything like the Vision Quest of native American peoples?

Time for you to do a little experimenting and see for yourself!

Is it just a coincidence that the departure of Olympia Climber ( ) happened at the same time the new ads appeared? Whoa.

I just wanted to point out something, in case it isn't obvious to everyone. This method of using a cordellette has the advantage that since the legs are single, rather than double, you have more cord available to incorporate more than the usual three pieces into the anchor.

I'm not a good illustrator, but assuming this is not a troll, the purpose of the knots is to limit extension should a piece of the anchor fail. You are trying to balance the useful angle over which self-equalization will work against the potential for extension. The closer the knots are tied to the power point, the less extension, but also the narrower the useful angle. If the pull comes from outside that useful angle, no equalization will occur and all the force will come on that one leg of the sling.

This is one of those rare threads we really ought to keep spray out of completely, IMHO. Wait a minute! Why is this in Spray?

Stefan, I hope everyone got their chance to break trail!

Sorry to say, but it is expensive unless you get generic. Price varies a lot. http://www.zithromax-us.us/ $108 for 6 - 250 mg brand name tablets http://aclepsa.com/zithromax.shtml?ref=bowfrommi $27 for 6 - 250 mg generic tablets

I love the way bright orange and red webbing looks on trees. It's so much more festive than drab old chains, especially those boring anchors that try to match the color of the rock.