billcoe

Oh my lord the world has turned upside down. Is this one of those pod people things.....or were you captured and tortured by the enemy? Gonna vote for Jane Fonda next? WTH?.... hmmmm, leg warmers, tight ass....hmmmm work it Jane work it....yeah I'd hit errrr, vote for that too, the dark side is all warm, soft, sexy and hot....OMG hand me a kleenex... lol wait, just re-read that and saw you used the word "might"...whew. It looked like the empire might collapse there for a moment Scott.

I was out with a buddy who had made his own but still a very small hammer. Figured he needed a bigger one so I got one of the Omega Pacific monsters for him. Realized that I had altogether too many of these things anyway. His is the new one with the tag in the bag on the left. Left to right CMI, Salewa, CMI, Salewa, Stubai 2 Kong Eagle heavy hammers (850 grams) 2 D5 (left) and 2 A5 Hammers (right) Some Chouinard hammers. The one on the right I was told was made by Chouinard for the 10th Mt division. Next up, arguably the best hammer ever made: Forrest.

No offense taken at all fellas. In either case I'm busy working on my superior new complex anchor rigging setup for climbing with multiple parties on multi-pitch climbs. I call it the "clusterfuckolet ™ ™ ™ ".

That your graph shows State of Washington total government spending drop a half a point decline relative to personal incomes in of interest to me Jfreeberg. I went searching around and found this article. That details the exact opposite of what your link seems to modestly imply. http://www.platformonomics.com/2010/11/fun-with-numbers-state-fiscal-policy-edition-2/ Couple of charts copied over, the guy says: "I pulled spending data on California, Illinois and New York as they’re the most often compared to Greece (Athens-on-the-Pacific/Great Lakes/Hudson respectively). I also threw in Texas which has outperformed most states economically over the last ten years without being completely dependent on natural resources (sorry Dakotas) and it supposedly has a different governmental philosophy (does “everything is bigger in Texas” extend to fiscal policy?). The results are surprising as seen in Figure 1 below. Since 2000, Washington state government spending has grown faster than that of California, Illinois and New York (gulp!). And that is after being the most frugal through 2006! New York is actually the most restrained state of the bunch. Figure 1: Growth in State Government Spending: 2000-2010" "Figure 6: State Government Spending Normalized for Economic Growth: 2000-2010" How do we have such radically different data I wonder? It must be that "economic growth" is significantly different and higher than personal income"?

A fine counterpoint to the Fuller text is Dore Golds work (Gold is former Israeli ambassador to the UN). "Hatred's Kingdom: How Saudi Arabia Supports the New Global Terrorism" http://www.amazon.com/Hatreds-Kingdom-Arabia-Supports-Terrorism/dp/0895260611/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1310492890&sr=1-4 BTW, the 1 stars reviews on Amazon given for the Fuller work seem particularly well written. http://www.amazon.com/World-Without-Islam-Graham-Fuller/product-reviews/0316041203/ref=cm_cr_dp_hist_1?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=0&filterBy=addOneStar

Wow, awesome TR as always Ivan. BTW, fella in the valley told me that the nickname Ben and his brother have in Yosemite is "the Enduro Brothers" for getting on the Shield and refusing to quit till they topped out...LOL. But I suppose that Beckey is the secret weapon. I got to meet her couple years back and hung out in the meadow when my knee was all stitched up and trying to recover from an earlier hiking accident, and she was one of the most pleasant folks and 100% positive cheerleaders I've ever met. An awesome and kind hearted sweetheart to hang with. She was doing the perfect bacon that trip as well. Woot! Congrats on surviving that:-)

Major workout dude! Wow! Very nice.

Matt, when I drive out to the area where the $30 fee is, I see a Washington Dept of transportation project to straighten the road in a few spots that they are paying close to 10 million bucks for, that by all accounts doesn't appear to be necessary. That's 33,000 plus passes, with no extra fees and costs to administer them. Total money maker, just cease the bullshit project. So don't straighten out SR 14, and fund the parks. Ta da! You are welcome. The road was and is fine. Been that way for 50 years. How about $130,000,000 for a bridge that they have not even decided on a design for. Here's the spending details. You do the math on how many passes that "critical" $130 million they have already spent would get. HEY IT'S ONLY MONEY, GET MORE FROM THE TAXPAYERS LINK OK, full text of the story: "Nancy Boyd isn't seeing red. After reviewing the $130 million that has already disappeared down the rat hole, the Columbia River Crossing's new director notes, "I don't see any red flags on what's been spent." Seriously? Because the CRC could not find a qualified "traffic consultant" in the Portland metro area, the empire builders hired David Parisi of Mill Valley, Calif., and paid $19,200 to help cover rent on his Pearl District apartment. Parisi's consulting company -- which doesn't have a working website -- has billed CRC more than $1.4 million. No red flag? More The Oregonian’s continuing coverage of the Columbia River Crossing and the money behind it. Shortly after EnviroIssues hired communications director Linda Mullen away from the Washington State Department of Transportation in 2006, EnviroIssues was graced with a PR contract for the bridge project. The firm's billings for this public-relations disaster now top $5 million. No apologies? At the behest of the Oregon Department of Transportation, the CRC hired Tom Markgraf, a former aide for Rep. Earl Blumenauer, and paid him more than $1 million to chaperone public hearings and schmooze the body politic over four years. Eventually, lo and behold, Markgraf's son, Peter, was also drawing a CRC paycheck. C'mon, Ms. Boyd: Not even the hint of a blush? In The Sunday Oregonian, reporter Jeff Manning laid out, with his usual clarity, the fatuous finances of the CRC, a $3.6 billion train wreck whose promoters appear oblivious to the recession, regrets or reality checks. The current balance sheet is telling. When Govs. Ted Kulongoski and Chris Gregoire gave their DOTs a blank check, abdicating further leadership or restraint, the CRC evolved into a chummy fraternity of transit groupies. No one had incentive to save money. As is so often the case with ODOT, no one is accountable, much less disciplined, for runaway costs. And no one at CRC is sheepish about any of this. Heck, they all insist they're doing God's work. For what it's worth, I'm a huge fan of infrastructure. I believe future generations in Portland will be especially thankful for every mile of track that was set down when federal transit funds were still available, and that includes the ongoing $1.5 light-rail expansion to Milwaukie. But the Columbia River Crossing, as conceived, is built on fatally flawed assumptions about traffic patterns, congestion relief (the gridlock at the Rose Quarter will only grow worse) and available funding. And the run-up to construction has been marked by the arrogance and greed of engineers, consultants and urban planners who want us to believe they're doing us a favor as they enrich themselves and their liberal (in this case, at least) friends. Boyd told Manning she considers the $130 million spent to date "reasonable" because the tab is less than four percent of the $3.6 billion price tag. That she still believes a $3.6 billion project is possible is a troubling sign. That Boyd has finally requested an internal audit is more encouraging. But after six years of disdainful, irresponsible spending, we don't need a CPA to tell us that the public's reservoir of trust in this project, and the voters' confidence in its boosters, have been utterly depleted. " "Hey, lets get some $30 parking passes started cause we don't have nay money and it will make people sympathetic to our lack of money plight". HUH? They're going to spend 3.6 BILLION for a bridge that everyone is doing fine without and that is way overpriced. Minnesota just put up a bigger one for less money. Do the math on that: divide $30 (for a pass) int the billion...how many passes will they have to sell to build this bridge? Wrong, they have to sell 10 times more that any number you guessed, because the passes profit will all be spent on building up a new bureaucratic infrastructure to collect the $30 fees. If they make money at all it will be miniscule. Stupid. At Smith Rock, there is limited parking and it's always full, they charge, it's an annoyance. However, the sting dissipates as they actually make money, a lot of it. Yet Oregon should be bumping the income tax which would be fairer in may respects. OK, I did the math and they need to sell 120,000,000 passes to pay fro the bridge, but to only sell that many they need to not have any costs associated with the sale of the passes. OK, lets see, how many people live in "Washington? Hmmm, how many will buy the pass? Hmmmm - it's going to take a while to pay off this billion dollar bill isn't it. What was your question again? yeah....you suggested that I do not think that they spend our money wisely. That is true, I see examples all the time. BUT, the question remains, are they really spending less overall these days and really need the money? If they are, say so. You think that they need to find a revenue source. Many think they should find places to cut. I can't answer that one yet until I see your chart.

The message is that if we could all look at what the total annual state spending is, then we'd know for certain if they were really in dire needs with their backs against the wall In which case there would be many supporters and silence on this payment tax to park issue). I'd like t see it in steady dollars (with inflation factored in) over a 50 year or longer period. Until then, we are basically taking them at their word that this is mission critical. Some do not believe it. Count me in that group until I see some facts. I've been wrong enough in my life to not doubt I could be wrong again. Easily. And if they really need it, I have extra and would toss a few extra into the pot. Really. I really didn't see the chart I wanted and I looked Matt. Being straight up here, don't read any subterfuge into my words as I mean none.

No you don't get it. Re read my post, I asked for info. You have nothing? Just say so. I'd like to see a bar chart of the last centuries spending per person of total Washington Government spending. I was unable to find one. Really. They may be collecting less revenue and actually need more. Is that the case? I really do not know.

As I publicly stated on an earlier "CC.com thread, I have bet the farm on interest rates rising. China was divesting it's US T-bill holdings and the US would have to increase the rate to attract new $. It seemed clear until June 17th that this was a big money maker about to happen. Maybe the biggest no brainer thing I've seen in my lifetime. As you say above, when no one will loan you money anymore. Looks like ti was about to pop and I bet on it. Yet on that date, China suddenly reversed their policy of shedding US debt which they had initiated back on October and which they had accelerated through May to include some huge sales and reduction in US debt, and once again became a net buyer of it -inexplicably jumping into the Treasury auctions once again and becoming a buyer. Thus, I don't know if this was the result of a US government promise under the table (ie, "Perdicaris alive or Raisuli dead!"), or that the Chinese got caught trying to Fu*k us over in a 9/11 style attack based on the economy like the 2008 Pentagon report suggests they were doing and the US played some unknown diplomatic card, or if it represents an actual long term correction of Chinese internal political and economic thinking. Regardless, I'm staying the interest rate guessing game course for at least a year and expect them to rise. I was thinking this was at least a 2 year issue, but am losing self-confidence now. If I screwed the pooch and the farm becomes worthless, it was still buttressed with some earlier actual gold purchases (averaged in the high $300 an ounce range) and some energy sector funds for balance. Furthermore, I screwed up and stuck a bunch of $ into a Yuan denominated US insured savings account. Oh, it's gone up, but if I'd spread it in a market basket of Se Asian countries, I'd be laughing on the way to the bank now. Look at the Aussie dollar which has kicked ass! vs the US dollar to see this effect. The market basket would have included the Aussie dollar and it would have spread it out, but I went for what I perceived as the sure thing and it cost me. I'm up and it's good, the Yuan is appreciating, but not as much. Next year I think real estate will be worth a look again. You?

Just you. I'll talk slower next time. lol

Well, what is the price tag for freedom Matt? Give us the number. Cause if you want to write blank checks, plan on giving it all over to the insatiable .gov. http://www.nwcitizen.com/entry/2009/12/wa-state-government-spending For myself, I was curious what the last 50 years of Washington government spending per person looked like, and was unable to find it. Perhaps you'll have better luck, and I really do want to know what the dollar cost is for freedom. I'll pay it, no shit, just give me the number. If you find that they gov is spending less per person than previous years, I will run right out an buy my pass and not complain again. Really. Let me know, I'm curious.

No doubt it was a huge mistake that the jumper deeply regrets, but can see this kind of thing in car wrecks all the time and we are left just wondering WTF?! My kid got hit by a car, same thing: WTF?! She was in a crosswalk, how do you get hit in a crosswalk?! She did. Was sent flying, shoes blown off her feet, lucky to have lived, her friend who was right next to her in the crosswalk was hospitalized. Multiple witnesses say they had the walk signal and were inside of the crosswalk. Very unsettling and unnecessary. Accidents happen. Only if we can get rid of people, cars, bikes, etc etc will we have less. Popular places always have more of them, and from all kinds of ways too. Anyway, you might be right and the guy could have hit his own rap line left on Pioneer Tyler. Hey, aren't you too young for "health issues"? Hope all is well Tyler, feel like sharing?

Yield drift? Are you thinking 20 year US T-bill interest rates will be going up Jayb?

No particular reason? Seriously? Seriously. It just keeps going up through thick and thin, good and bad. Up up up. Look at the chart from 1923 - 2010. Up up up. Why did it increase during the Reagan and Bush years and has just continued to increase (based on 2005 dollars like the top chart shows)? Seriously. Up Up Up. More up.

You're right, I overstated the case. I don't disagree with your point, GE being the most egregious example not paying any taxes. You can search CC.Com and see my earlier rant on that very company and this very subject. I'm focusing on the growth of government spending that has been occurring for no particular reason for decades. You think you can flip a switch and make the large corporations pay off this bill? I don't. The cut off the corporation "loopholes" everyone is discussing is a market basket of mixed things that congress allowed in earlier times. Some of them make good sense for everyone, some undoubtedly were attached to some rider and slipped through to benefit someones home state corp and at best may bolster employment only. Focusing on these "loopholes avoids the multi-trillion pound Elephant in th eroom and that is that government spending has steadly risen this century through good times or bad, high revenue and low. And it has recently accelerated in a huge way. We need to turn the gov't spending around now or face severe structural issues when the interest rates increase and the borrowing costs raise even more. Government spending rises when revenue rises and then it rises some more when revenue drops. Look at the chart. There is no correlation and all that is seen is the steady increase of governemt spending. And interest rates (and the US borrowing costs) will rise. I'm personally betting the farm on it. The longer we wait, the more painful will be this process, and it cannot go on into infinity. In 2005 dollars here is the Federal Government spending. When you put it as it relates to GDP, it changes for the depression and WW2 years, but the steady inexorable rise is still there.

*Really? Damn. I might buy one too, but not without some serious grumbling first:-) *Timetraveler, slight heads up, although you are climbing well, and I do not think ill of JH that he would try to do you in or anything nefarious, be aware that JH has some of those routes ruthlessly wired. *Looking forward to it Ivan once you recuperate.

I agree. As far as the blathering of this jackoff that Kevbone linked goes, I didn't make it past this: Bullshit, that's not freedom. Candidate Obama may have spewed a lot of things which President Obama he doesn't follow and extra wars is one more thing we don't need right now. Candidate Obama express the need to get our budget balanced, and President Obama is causing to to go ballistic into the strategist. It's a horrible thing that will cause all kinds of big issues d0own the road. I'd be fine if they bumped the taxes for everyone in a fair way AND AT THE SAME TIME brought the incredible amounts of spending back under some semblance of control. Of course the typical yammering about big corporations not paying any money, but no examples and specifics. Don't address the huge issue in the room which is the government spending like an out of control drunken sailor. Of course it CANNOT continue, and what that means is that you, joe average, eventually gets to foot the bill of what appears to be near unlimited wasteful government spending which we will borrow to spend. Trust me on this, it won't be the big corp. on who's back this heavy burden will be placed - it will be yours. You can pay it back sometime in the future, don't worry. Hey, it won't even be you, we'll make your kids pay it. The oppressive's want to kill the Goose that lays the golden eggs and are thinking that maybe they'll get rich in the process. Uhhh, that's not the way the real world works outside of the government mindset in the real world and it's not going to happen that way. We need to do it now, not later. Less spending, now.

LOL! Thats' funny stuff. Glad the pup made it out. Good on your folks for doing the work! My neighbor has one of these beautiful Bernise Mt dogs as a pet. He paid $1600 for the thing. It's one of the nicest dogs and does so well around his children. To me, if your dog will chase wildlife, especially game animals and especially in the off season in the winter: it should be on a leash. I use to have a dog that was that way and it was a pain in the ass at times. Exceptions are dogs that will kill a small furry rodent in your campground before it chews through your tent or backpack but leaves everything else alone-then that's just the circle of life at work:-) we had these 2 mutts leashed for this encounter with the goats in the lower pic (didn't get the dogs and the goats in the same frame for obvious reasons). Until it became clear that the dogs were warily avoiding them and leaving them alone. In the top pic, as I'd been earlier stalked by a cougar in that location, I figured unleashed was the way to go and it was all fun and games till the skinny one there dove under the boulders after a rodent. The dog got way underground someplace till it apparently got trapped. 20-30 min of underground yowling followed till he finally figured out how to back out. They don't chase deer, elk or goats (they have never encountered a cougar or bear), but small furry things make them go all primal and create it's own set of issues....sigh.

CC.com bitchfest parking pass thread Glad you're back! Woot! When do we see a Yosemite TR to amp the stoke up a notch?

Stupid? There's 2 of these rope jumps on El Cap:-) I know I know, if your mother asked you "would you jump off a bridge if your friends did too"? Well, lets just say that I know the answer to that now:-) Personally, I just hope my kids aren't as stupid as me. To answer the anchor question, there is a place for a natural thread, and a single bolt was added @10 years ago, they may have been feet from it. However, if what occurred is what I think, they were on level ground with their packs where the climb starts ...on a hillside, and would not have expected to have fallen from there and would be tossing their harnesses into their packs for the hike down soon. The hike backs away from the rock and gets into the parks trail system, while directly downslope, feet from the base, is a small 15' cliff. You can see the trail just below on the hillside in the pic below, this is my kid we were out there a couple weeks back. The people down there are either on the trail (left) or starting the Pioneer route (right). Directly out of sight under my son is a short cliff. You can sort of see the hillside dropping away to the left Drederek. You can ask the rangers, but the stupid crap they routinely have to deal with, usually from hikers and tourists, is pretty lengthy. It's a popular park with lots of people all the time, and it generally works out good for everyone with a few exceptions here and there. Regardless, that really sucks for the fallen climber, wish her well and a fast recovery.

It sounds like 2 folks had rappelled, most likely one was still heading down and either on the rope or about to disconnect but on the ground, the other climber was unroped and at the base of the Pioneer rap waiting, when someone launched on the rope jump. The jumper hit the rap line which swung the whole kabob towards the downhill side but pushed off the unattached climber, who fell over that little drop at the start of pioneer and then rolled down the hill. The news people could screw up a wet dream, but if you watch this at 2:20 or so in and imagine another party just getting to the ground on rap, you'll see what I mean. [video:youtube]

Opps, late night thread. I mistakenly came in here looking for the morning coffee thread. Nevermind dudes!