billcoe

Erden: massive effort sir: we all wish you safe and fullfilling passage and that your brightest dreams are fullfilled times 2. Wow Wow Wowsa in wonderment and amazement is all I have left to say.

Are you kidding? You flash a pic and link like that dude and you think anyone is still thinking of uhhh uhhh uhhhh oh: right....the REI sale? Geeze: I clicked that link and in less than 2 min my gaping open-mouth wonderment must have drooled on my palms cause they chaffed in sympathy and wonder! Don't even get me started on the shrinkage issue either! Erden: thats both seriously amazing and inspiring! And epic huge! I'm going to the other thread immediatly. Wow - this is world class big breaking news of Tsunami magnitute. Regards and may serious good joss go with you always: Bill (BTW Scott, lets not call it a "killer boat" shall we for obvious reasons? )

If those are compliments grrreeeatttt! Thanks: I like climbing with all you cause you are all so technically competent: and man, it just makes my day to run out after work and in a couple of hours get wasted. Probably a good thing WW doesn't live around here, he'd be kicking everyones butt(e) on that route. One time @ well over 20 years ago zI suppose, when toothpick was a hard route, I went walking by the base and Wayne (112) was TR soloing the thing with 1 jumar.....man, he was looking so unbelievably smooth. I didn't see a backup knot or any other attachments that I remember. I watched him cruise the crux like it was 5.6, I remember thinking he didn't even really needed the rope. Now for the sad news: The "Couchmaster" didn't arrange anything for this weekend except family time Sunday. Does anyone need a belay Sat or Mon? If not, I might go clean that line just to the right of For Petes Sake out at Petes Pile. Maybe the route just to the left as well (its still way right of Gillotine). Anyone know if thats been done? There's at least 2" of moss on the right one, so you wouldn't think so. The left one has had a few spots cleaned, as if someone did a lead and brushed off only the holds and a few spots for pro. Any Beta about those? Been done before and have names but just left filthy?

Other side of the coin: At least no one stepped up and used the term "Freedom fighters"? http://www.arabview.com/articles.asp?article=29 http://www.twf.org/News/Y1999/0928-Disgrace.html

That's good advice on the leap. Good call.

That's funny. Iain, do you have a good recomendation for a headlamp?

Another option would be to get wheels for the damn thing, like a hand-truck, so as to make it portable. Seriously, you might check the times on the newer LED's -it's pretty good these days. How about using lithium batteries as well if you feel the need?

Missed you: maybe next time Paul.

Wow.....Snowbyrd: that was an amazing post/story. I'd tie in any day of the week with ya, sounds like you really have your stuff together now. Like you, many "old timers" have stories remarkably similar to yours (without the cancer thing of course). Knowledge often follows stupidity in trad climbing - at least it did for me and many of my early climbing friends anyway, or perhaps its just getting older and wiser, who can really say? Anyway, thank you for sharing that. BTW, if you haven't checked it out, Eric Horsts "Flash Training" has a great little section on mental prep: you might check it out. I stumbled over a copy for a buck at a used bookstore and thought it was the best buck I've ever spent, easilly worth the full (and origonal) purchase price IMO if you can't find a used copy. Getting more time on the rock helps the mind as well (you might have to wait for your kids to grow some to get more free time for that one). Enjoy: Regards - Bill

Ahhhh: stick envy: Hmmmmm................ Naaa, only if you don't stick it and grease off. Then you're a loser without a stick or a small stick. You need a friend with a stick. Talk to Iain, sounds like he'll hook you up. I'm stickless myself, gotta have friends Dan.

Yup its true. I saw this post on RC.com (thought it was here but just realised my error, thought you all would want the info. Climbmax on Division (PDX) Thats the good news, bad news: They are used but in generally good condition, nothing larger than mens #8. I hustled over there but nothing fit me. As I just spent over $40 to resole a pair of La Sportivias, well, $25 seemed awesome. Good luck. Bill

Lurching drunkenly towards the light, sickening theater of clowns regurgiting the litany of facts and alledged information he carenes, carenes off of the allegorical lampost. The dull sick twisted logic of his youth now lost in the depth of the running arguement in his head... To bolt? or not? Du mois.......du mois......du mois? Yes, I shall post once more..du mois...

You guys sound like you're gonna start whining about the 2 bars, snackbars, grocery store, 2 hotels, laundramats, restaurants and several gift shops that will go in next? Wait, that's Yosemite I'm thinking about. nevermind

You want me to click the link, read the whole f*en thing, and post it here? They even detail the hardness and everything. The report is very specific. Ok I'll check. ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. ........................................................................................................................... .............. ............... .............. ............... ................ ................. Dru: they say it's Australian Sandstone.

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SandstoneBolting.htm Saw this and thought it was great stuff which should be posted here. Didn't see it, apologise if it's been posted previously. Bottom line: glue-ins for sandstone. Incorrectly mixed glue will be radically weak. (10kn). Well mixed glue and deep threading on type 316 stainless gets a real strong 42kn rating. On a shear type pull,using the bolt/hanger combo: the hangers deformed at 26-27kn. Once you are out of the lab, if you get that kind of strength, your biner (or webbing) would fail before the bolt or the hanger. Still be interesting to see this done by a U of W engineering student for basalt. Any takers? PS, the above was the summation of a cliff notes version of the testing. Don't diss me for being a lightweight, read it all if you are interested, there's a lot there. Regards: Bill

Don G. said Greg Murray did it but I didn't get the 2nd name.

Hi Joeseph: It sounds like #2. Grades right, Jim O knows it he watched some guys do it with me one day.

Yes, just to the right of Boardwalk. I think there is a Bob Mcgowen route over in that vicinity there. How about that sweet diheadral to the immediate R of YW? I was asked not to do that @ 2 years ago by some guys who said it was a "project". Never hear if they did it, but it still looks loose and dirty, as if they changed their mind. Lets hook up Sunday. I have a do with some real old friends on Saturday who I rarely see, and work week days:-(.

If you make the Boardwalk chains, then traverse Right @13 feet then up, I backed off that terrified from the lose slab shit years ago. Small cajones I guess. It is pretty much straight up from Raindance. It looks like it should go right up over the top in @ 3-4 pitches.

Not sure where that is exactly, but it already sounds like a classic. Course you'll have to tear off at least the first 12" of loose rock without killing your belayer or chopping the rope is what it sounds like! Hard to do on lead.

Hey, that's what my wife tells ME!

You don't see me dissing them. For price/performance ratio for learning technical things: the Mazamas and the mounties are tops. They can teach the critical safety aspects that you need to learn fairly inexpensively and throughly (abiet slowly). What Wayne says holds somewhat true as well, but if anyone had a large group, and needed to teach the group in a through and safe manner, that's probably exactly what you would get. Highly recommended. If Wayne and a couple of his friends let you tag along and teach you the technical rope work you needed, that would be the fastest/cheapest/best most likely, but sometimes thats difficult as well for a number of other reasons.

Joesph, there are 2 sets of chains in that area. The chains on the left are Boardwalk and the chains on the right are Raindance. Was it a trad climb or bolts? Sounds like an adventure! Like some of the crap out there, it could be 5.12 X until the stuff gets cleaned then it turns out being a moderate 5.6-5.7 How high did you get?

Nope, no one mentioned that one Ivan. Theres been some great routes mentioned. Blownout was the only beacon route named so far, which is strange as Beacon has some routes which might beat some of the routes named so far. That pitch on SE corner is pitch 3 unless it's done with Cruisemaster, and Crusimaster is about as good as it gets too. Other memorable routes are Dod's Jam (first 3 pitches), Ground Zero (1st 3 pitches) to the roof, I've never freed the 2nd pitch), Bluebird and Free for Some are all very good Beacon canidates as well. There might be at least 5 more that would rank right up there with some of the others I would think.

RBW, as I posted that bad-beta earlier (about Buffalo Bill), I would like to atone. 007 obviouly knows quite a bit about Nepal. Regular porters in Nepal really will carry your stuff for $1.00 day although I think it is slightly higher now. If it was me, I would shoot for a sub-6500 meter peak. As I understand it, many of the fees have been totally elimanted for those, and Nepal is trying to encourage climbers to show up and crank. A small group of skilled climbers could show up and have a ball doing plenty of stuff over there. Hell, they have some unclimbed ice runnells and "small" mountains (some as yet unnamed)that make some of the Canadian stuff look like a slip and slide. You could really do a kick assed trip for low $$$. Seriously. And if you drink the Chang instead of the $4 a bottle beer that some porter took a week to carry up there, you'd be way ahead of the game. Not as cheap as driving to Alaska or Canada and sleeping in your tent and car mind you, but hey, can't have everything.