billcoe

Ohh I was being sarcastic-- Whew- Yup, actually, when Anselm Beau (spelling?) - the French climber dude who specialized in both climbing and then skiing Noth Faces in the Alps came to time to do a North Face of Mt Blanc film show, he and his buddie skiied the north face of Hood then, which was in @1982. Not sure what route. That was quite a film, watching him solo unroped - front point and dual tool up a very steep wall, knowing that was his descent path. It was unfrigganbelievable. Funniets part to me was sitting around after BSing with him and his buddie, and I say, how do you stay in shape ? They both looked at me with utter confusion. They were French Guides whos only job was to climb and guide steep ski descents (probably for gapers like me). They didn't do anything to stay in shape, they just climbed and skiied all the time and had no idea what the question was refering to.

Damn ??!!! skiis???! -you sure? Maybe were thinking different routes or I must just be a weak pussy. Well, hey, I am a weak pussy, so what - but still, are we thinking the same route? whew, .....mefrigganowwwww all I can say.

Works for me Paul. White Rabbit is better TRope, pro really sucks IMO. I may be running more towards 5 but I'll try for sooner.

This is the usual troll, who wants to meet at the Butte Thurs question for some quick toproping to stretch the muscles before it gets dark at 7:30. May have a couple of others interested - not positive, trying to firm something up. on the agenda after if anyone is interested and not still hungover from Tues (not me I missed the swillathon)? Plan on me being there, neck still hurts (whaw whaw) hey, can't just lay around and get old (er). Bill

opps: to slow!

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=514&e=8&u=/ap/20040922/ap_on_re_eu/france_spider_man To anyone whos seen it, this is a very outstanding building in Paris. No mention if he was arrested or not. partial text: "Alain Robert took less than 45 minutes to climb the nearly 700-foot-tall Montparnasse Tower building, gripping the metal girders on his way up. At the top, he waved to a small crowd that gathered on the ground, some shouting "Allez, Alain," or "Go, Alain!" "This is a bit long," Robert, 42, said of his climb. "There are some metallic rails which are a bit slippery. It's difficult to stick the feet inside so it's a bit uncomfortable. I mean, I have to climb quite quickly. I have to be able to keep the rhythm. And today it's windy, it's a bit cold."

Anyone want to get in the office pool on how long (how many more posts) until this thread gets moved to spray?

I personally feel terrible... Shapp, check your email for my TR on my free solo of the Turkey Monster. If you like it I'll post it in the new Oregon Hardman forum. But only if you like it! Dan - sorry, too far away, do something closer to Portland. Yup, most exciting thing around here is while back: someone fell outta a Mobile home I heard. Didn't hear if it wuz one o them big MF'ers or what. The hardmen are all out climbing, leaving us Posers to hold down the board.

No Problemo..........Sir.

Got ya: so to clarify cause I want to get the new rules right the first time: you are saying that we are not to post anything which will incure your ire and distain? Would it be possible if us lame Oregonians can PM you with our TR's of what we consider interesting update posts so you can advise us BEFORE we make fools of ourselves in your eyes? I'm sure I speak for everyone that we all feel bad about all this and wish none of it had happened. ___________________________________________________ We may be lame weak bolt clipping pussies, but we're Oregonians by God........

I hope you're kidding about that gumby thing Shapp. If not, then it seems like a real rude and uncalled for thing to say. I not only don't see it that way, I appreciate them sharing that the bolt is gone, and I like reading how it happened. That route gets done frequently by begineer to expert. It's a hell of a lot better hearing about it now than showing up to do the route....sans stick....and going .........f* as you look up. Maybe it was just a humor thing that I just missed, if so, sorry.

Better IMO, to brigna stick. Hooks will wear through the rock real fast. BTW, Ivan, isn't the hole larger than 3/8"? Like 1/2 or 5/8 diameter? Might be showing up with a 3/8 bolt will do nothing for you. Better to check it out and replace with something that fits, otherwise you'll have to redrill.

Well Dan, if you WERE a skier, and you also had a fondness for CASINOS where great singers like Englebert Humperdink and Wayne Newton could ply their trade, you'd be in hog heaven up there gambling and skiing and kicken back with the tunes from the 50's. _____________________________________________________ Thou shall gamble harder, skiis shall be sharper, mind shall be weaker, as our pussy strength and eyesight diminishes. You do support our Casino American's no?

Soooo schweet! Thanks for sharing. I've seen a Beaver swimming by and a deer swim out to that island, but no bear out there.

I think Markd was refering to the West Face route, which saw a bunch of 1/4 star dryvin bolts get replaced after a zipper - like 6 or something bolts in a row pulled. BTW, Ivan, the West Face (not WF Variation) got easier as an aid line when it went free as a couple of more bolts were added at that point on the first pitch. P2 and P 3 are a bolt line. You might consider putting that one on your "bolts to be ripped out/zippered" list as its a real nice route to do on aid! Small wired RP nuts and carabiners is pretty much the gear list I think (better check the book, I really don't remember for sure). Besides, once you do it, then the rest of us will know for a fact that it will hold us! The old 1/4 dryvins were very interesting to get on, might not be many left at this point.

Must be the West face Variation route, Not West Face. Both are fine routes, but the bolt must have been on the Pioneer Bolt Ladder (Upper West Fast Variation finish) and not one of the new West Face Bolts? Sounds like a good time was had! If it was me, I'd probably still be wiping up the sh*t dribbling down my leg from the sudden shock of it.

Dude, if thats not a wake up call to lose some weight....... BTW, next time I see you, if I have my yellow chalkbag, reach in the bottom and I have a Yos. bolt hanger my second popped (John Petrosky- who must have weighed perhaps 150 at the time) on the first bolt of the former bolt ladder on NE Butress of Middle Cathedral. It went free right after that at a moderate 5.10C.

I just rec'd a post from Jeff Maudlin of Black Diamond. He forwarded extensive info that the Beal pens work fine on ropes. I'm at work and wanted to post quick, I'll detail it later, for now- just know it's fine to use the Beal rope marker on ropes. (3 of then are JPG;s of documents, not sure how to link those) Refer to Iains post above concerning lack of failures, makes sense.

Mine came via partner hand del mail......... Best price possible. Unusual though, I thought last mo. copy of rock and Ice was better. So, partner has R and I, I have 8. yeahhhhhh! great price.

Hi Tex: The gear critic forum has this too (motto, first - live -local?): but climbing mag has it online as well. I don't think you are in trouble with your decision to keep and use them: http://climbing.com/equipment/heliumrecall/ Wild Country Helium karabiner recall Tideswell, Derbyshire (July 15th 2004) – Wild Country Ltd. announce the recall of all Helium karabiners supplied to retail stores between April and July 2004. In-process testing has identified a problem with a limited number of karabiners concerning the location of the gate on the nose of the karabiner under load. Should this problem occur in use the minimum breaking strength of the karabiner would be the "Gate Open" strength of 10kN. Please arrange for the immediate return of all Helium karabiners to; Excalibur / Wild Country, PO Box 1007, Sandy, UT, 84091. Ph: (801) 942-8471 The products concerned are; HELIUM - CLEAN WIRE - RED or SILVER HELIUM 10MM DYNEEMA Quickdraw 13 or 18cm OXYGEN-HELIUM 12mm Quickdraw 10 or 15 cm The karabiners are marked with Batch Codes; AAA, AAB, AAC, AAD, AAE and AAF All karabiners returned will be inspected and further testing will be undertaken. We will be posting on web-sites and in forums as more information becomes available. For help with identifying the product or for further information on the recall please contact us at; usa@wildcountry.co.uk or by telephone on; (801) 942-8471.

And NO helmet on Herr Hubers Kauph! That should keep this site buzzing for weeks.

Should be able to scoot up something. Especially if someone else showed up a slight bit early and started belaying you? Grab your harness, I'll at least give you a belay up something. Anyone?

Anyone looking for a little Belay bitch action tonight? I radically tweaked a vertabrae and feel soft and slow, but want to go stretch out after work at the Rocky Butte cliffs. Anyone interested? You name where you prefer, @ 6pm is good for me. I give good belay.

This might be the answer? Your thoughts? http://www.uhartrescue.com/ropecare.html "PMI TEC Rope Marker - .4oz This ink will not damage ropes, but the carrier solution in some pens could. PMI's TEC Rope Marker from Sharpie is the only pen that is batch tested for 24 trace elements, making it the only pen you can really trust for marking your rope. Black. " Also- Beal has packaged their product differntly: could this be a new formula as well as a new package? http://professionalropes.com/anglais/corde_pro2.html " Beal has developed a special ink for marking ropes, in the middle as well as at the ends. This ink hardly stiffens the rope, is water resistant, and stands up to abrasion well. NB: it dœs not affect polyamide. The container has a small roller at the tip for better inking."

Exactly dude. But the question remains "Whats a mother to do"? I too need to mark a rope. - I'm not sure I've ever known anyone who took a true fall factor 2 fall either, but knowing that the rope is weaker after marking......well,........... I'm not going to buy a rope which is taped like I made the mistake on the last Edelrid I purchased about a year ago. I didn't pay attention before I bought it. (My bad) The tape must have stayed on for at least 15 min. and is long gone and the rope still unmarked: I think I will mark it anyway.....(indecision) ........but......at least Maummut got "it" figured out. My last rope was a Maummut and very well permantly marked in the middle. from the site noted above- " Mammut tested the "Rope Marker", a pen sold by Beal. The reduction was 50 % for the non-dry and 17 % for the superdry rope. Mammut tested five days and four weeks after application. The capacity reduction was more for tests done four weeks after application. " If a product especially formulated for climbing ropes by a top rope Mfg. leaves it 50% weaker ..doesn't kind of makes you wonder about a sharpie - which was not tested. It makes me wonder if fabric dye shouldn't be checked out, meantime, maybe use a little real light Beal marker action and assume a potential 50% reduction? What does that mean in reality to us anyway, that it is now a 5 fall rope instead of a 10 fall? If I had to choose, it would be nice to have it marked in the middle. However, thinking of some of the jugging fixed ropes moments, well, I'm about to wet myself just thinking of the bouncing bouncing bouncing as you jug up, not pleased at that point that you had purchased the lightweight/thinner model of rope, not being able to even see the mark you put on the rope with the marker, which is so far out of sight as you jug, and you intuitively know it is undoubtly rubbing right on the only sharp spot in the entire route with every step you take. So.................. "Whats a mother to do"? Choosy mothers choose Maummut." And mother f*er's who don't pay attention get tape in the middle and sit around indecisivly like me. Curious what some of you others have decided to do?