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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. So much for the dudes vow of secrecy. Tom Frost rules.
  2. check spray
  3. Nailed that on the cams. BTW, to flesh it out some more, add a set of wired nuts or 2(I like DMM as they are the lightest/strongest-others like BD/Smiley or Wild country), and the 4 larger hex sizes in either BD/Chouinard or Wild Country-I'd buy the hexes and nuts used, for sure. Buying the sets sounds good, but you wind up with more small nuts than you can stand. My first gear purchased were some carabiners and the 5,6 and 7 Chouinard Hexes (had to sling my own rope) to flesh out a buddies rack for a local route. 1972. Still have them. Still use em all the time for setting up Toperope routes. Nuts/hexes work signifigantly better to TR where you don't have bolts cause they stay put. I still carry hexes on some routes at Smith (like White Satin and Trezler, where the constrictions take a hex better than a cam. That is rare for granite though.
  4. billcoe

    done

    Arch, I think the "later" part indicated he would in fact, be back "later". Which must be now. Kev's back! BTW, He posts better climbing pics than 90 percent of you here, I think you should consider that when you're talking smack on the guy. Ie, dissing on him or his bad or weak posts may be easy, but his good posts are better than your good posts. I include myself in that statment as well 'cause I have so few pictures or TR's, but I'm trying to turn that around and you who live in spray should consider that as well.
  5. Wayne don't lie. _________________________________________________________ Kev, you're back! Thought you were a gonner. BTW, can I borrow your Beacon topo?
  6. yeh yeh yeh JH, now get in line with the rest of the hosers who didn't want it to be done to buy yours. You know the rest of those guys will all have one soon. :lmao:
  7. $5 $ 6 for the dog and $10 for the table.
  8. Nothing left except a carcase of bones that even the flies are passing on now. Damn, I've got to stay closer to my puter:-)
  9. Thank Jim!
  10. too much snow. fer sure.
  11. Dan, I forgot all about the Great Roof on Brogan. We use to go do laps on it when it rained (this was all nuts-before cams)......all the friggan time. I forgot all about it. Probably been 20 years. It most likely has some big, shiney new bolts on it too as what's her name just freed it like a year ago or so. Bubbas on Picnic lunch wall.
  12. Good to hear you did a U-turn on the road to hell. What happened Oly?
  13. Bring back some pics and a TR though for those of use who don't get out and just walked in the rain and/or did a ski run or 2 this weekend. Even if you just repeat the Pioneer route again. OK? Thanks...........enjoy- I suspect you'll like any Monkey route you jump on.
  14. AT Smith, I think all the long routes that summit Monkey Face are great. Maybe the best in the state that I've tried. Like Frank said, Beacon has some great lines too but you'd have to sit in the rain and stare at them for 3 months till it opens. Doing the East Face of Monkey clean would be more likely to see a grounder happen than any of the other Monkey routes, but it is much more interesting as well. If it's cold, the West Face is always good but your partner only gets a bolt ladder if you get P 1. The N face and NW passage are great and might be warm enough is you wear a coat or it's a warmer day. My personal fav is the N face started from the east face ledge but I find that I get on the West Face about twice as often. This may only be due to laziness, too lazy to walk around the thing. Th N face has the bolts down low, can be broken into 2 pitches (the traditional, regular length rope way) and has the interesting nutting up high where its safe and not a chance of hitting the deck. You can free the gym moves at 11B or aid bolts to the summit from the neck cave and there are 2 separete lines now for both, if you are freeing, clip the ones on the left. I think on a good day you could do 3 of those lines on the same day and finish the day pretty beat too. Maybe not right yet cause daylight is at a premium still. I want to take a shot at that maybe this year to see how it would go. Maybe the East, North and West faces in a day would be good. There are a couple of routes on Steins piller which can be safely aided you'd most like find interesting as well.
  15. I've been suffering some serious back pain and have not even been able to sit in front of the computer. Yesterday I had an MRI and started a dose of steroids so, as long as the steroids hold anyway, I may be able to post here. Steroids? WTF? Matt, assuming the MRI turned up nothing, check this: No steroids needed
  16. Pink probably bumps into CG as they live fairly close to each other. I've never met him, but to me, CG was what was wrong with climbing in the 80's. Some people trying to rap bolt a hard line, much to the anger of the old guard, and then milking the controversy which follows for PR and to make themselves famous and rich. I suspect CG is probably a pretty good guy once you get past his reputation.
  17. billcoe

    done

    ........without the 'bone, they quickly turned on each other......tearing and ripping each other.....
  18. Mike, hope you've retired the goldline by now. BTW - weren't you the person who almost patented the saying "My rack your rope"? BTW, if you get up here to visit relatives or anything, look me up we'll go do somepin'. Been a long long time. Take care Bill Coe
  19. Seriously, the men who run these countries do not even let women drive cars..... You think they'd let a Hooters in there?
  20. oh oh, here's some internet trash coming your way T
  21. billcoe

    the queens of spray

    _________________________________________________ Dude, who tol' ya to stop?
  22. Boy wouldn't that be a parade for the Ami press? Wheres Hearst when you need him? Wait, nevermind, theres still Ruport Murdock.
  23. Yawn, well wake me up when the first Hooters goes into a pure Islamic (excluding Lebonon here) country. I mean - wake me up if the Mutaween, (islamic religious police) are not beating and whipping the Hooters girls in public for being prostitutes and generally violating Sharia (Religious law). You know that story of the American business woman who's skirt was too short in Iran couple of years ago? Arrested, convicted, then brutally whipped publicly for prostitution. Wearing a skirt.
  24. Origonally just spoken - "tap that ass".
  25. Damn, ICU? That sounds serious. This might be a killer flesh eating bacteria story isn't it. Dude, stop playing: get well and up out of there while ya can. Wishing you well fer sure. ICU, damn.
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