billcoe

Well, since you're the one who's always riding the short bus and must be most familiar with it, maybe you can organize it? What say eh?

I 100% agree with Bug, and just basically said the same thing on the thread linked above. Jamin, you're skating on the edge here buddy. We've all of us been there, but I'd re-read Bugs post at least twice. Slowly. Really.

I've never tried it, but I'd be pretty leery of using a solo device for ice. I'd be worried about ice getting in there and jamming up the works. That said, I applaud this guys motivation. Time to find a partner though. Likewise. I followed this from another thread. Hey, I use to use a single Jumar to TR solo and it never was a problem. I once saw Wayne1112 doing it on a short (50'-60' or so) what folks call a 5.11c about the same era. We all survived it (wasn't on ice though). Sometimes I still do it, despite having more solo devices than any single human would ever need. But Jamin, you might consider hanging with some real old dudes and check out their schtick so you can shorten your learning curve and reduce your potential risk of death and dismemberment.

Yeah? Well it would help if you stopped letting beautiful women hang around you all the time.

I might even have too consider it myself if the price is right! I could borrow my wifes lil J. Edgar Hoover dress and pair it with the Charles Colson model purse he favored. Hmmmm.

If you're suggesting Tim, then I'm sure that the ladies could take up a collection to pay you for wearing a bra and panties.....if thats whats going down here. John seems to be pretty intimately familiar with the whole thing.........hmmmm, perhaps too much?

If you're going to do it John, what would be the use for me even considering trying it? Damn you got strong doing crossfit. You should do it. You're not getting younger.

Yes I do, but as it has been well documented, I am an old and weak pussy. Doh, what I think I mean, is for a long mountainous approach especially where you left the pins and hammer behind, it's a lot of needless weight, for El Cap or something like that,: toss it in a 90lb haul pack you you won't notice it's there. Hell, I once put the whole damn yellow Meyers Hardcover in my backback, right in the sleeve next to my back, forgot it and carried up full hike and climb of the grade VI NW Face of 1/2 Dome. Would have been nice to know we had the topo:-) Last time I went up to do just Snake Dike, Ujahn carried the rope, the rack, my shoes, my harness and some of my water and I still struggled to keep up. Times change.

BTW, I've been to the 7 devils, and it's way out there. So I have some sympathy. I don't carry prussics on my harness either. Why have that stuff catching on flakes as you're climbing? Older/softer slings work Ok for prussiks, even Spectra (I've heard folks say it doesn't work, but it does and works fine-try it) just toss an extra rap or 2 around the rope and you're good to go. Mattp's advice on the Petzl rockpecker is a good one. You can get one for about $50, and you need a hammer as well. You might check ebay for online sales. Pick up any holder. Rawl or the A5 Hurricane Holder would work as well. Both add substantially to the weight you will be carrying for a route like that, and leaving them home may be the best, cause it's a lot of extra weight considering you will hardly ever need them.

I just had this happen to me about a month ago. I had a handrill and thought I had it OK all the way, but I was soooo fucked. GD, I was soooo pwned. Rapped down a chimney and thought there was a visible crack down there where the end of the rope was, but it was just these big loose flakes. So I yanked off flakes till it got solid, after 5-10 min of scratching around looking for anything to put a nut into, pulled out my Hurricane handdrill and the hammer, started pecking at the rock. 30 pecks later, I realize that this is going substantially slower than the sun is still moving towards the horizon, faster than the drill bit can work it's magic. Not only is the rock too hard, but check the bit: dull. MF you are such a dumb-ass (speaking to myself, I am the only person here and no one knows where I am but me. No one will come and get me. ) I have 3/8 dia bolts. Too big for an emergency. Slow to drill. Shit, didn't bring a headlamp either. MF you are such a double dumb-ass. How the F did you live to be 52 years old you dumb ass. Ahhh, whats that 30' over there straight left? a 4" diameter fir tree growing out of the rock. I make the 5.10 moves, hoping I don't peel off and smack the rock, as my rope is essentially deep in a chimney, and it doesn't move over with me, so I don't really have a nice tr above, but am looking at a pretty big swinging traverse fall. Make it safely to the little tree, assess it for a rap by yanking on it pretty hard, and decide it will work if I sling it low and I can find a backup piece. Tie it off and pull the rope, which comes most of the way down the chimney and then gets stuck. Stuck bad. MF you are such a dumb-ass, did you just get that rope stuck? The end I have isn't enough to get to the ground. MF you are such a dumb-ass. Now I'm tired, no water, dead beat, muscles cramping, can't get down, can't get up, alone. I still have to unclusterfuck this mess - no one will ever come here and find me until it's too late. Scratch around for a crack. Find none. Tie off the fir and try to reverse the moves. Surprise myself and do it, then climb up and unF*ed the rope, climb down carefully, not a chance in hell that a 4" fir will hold a leader fall of this distance. About 30' across and @25' down. But I'm tied to it anyway on the off chance I'm wrong or to make myself feel good. Actually, the climb over and back really felt good, I like pulling rock I'm thinking to myself, and relieved of the fear I'd had on the way over of a flake pulling off, I'm flowing. I live for this moment. I might be able to pull the moves to the top, on a route which has never been done before or even seen by a human being, but a short consideration and a brief snaileye towards the top later I'm thinking I'd better try for the ground. Once back, runner the tree, decide that although my head is pounding from dehydration, leaving 2 'biners, opposed and reversed is a good idea. At least if the tree pulls, it will look safe when they find me. Set up the rap, then slowly and gently slide over the edge: trying not to take big breaths as the extra weight of the air may do me in. Trying to use my feet to keep less weight on the rope - thinking I should have gone on a diet and lost some of this extra weight. Course I've got the bolt holder, bit, bolts, hammer, blow tube and wrench lowered safely to the ground on the end of the rope and doing nothing productive at this point. Of course. Get down to the ground, pull the ropes and for some damn reason they choose this time NOT to cluster*f and pull right down and the twilight zone effect comes on just as the sun hits the horizon. I beat cleats and clear the woods and make the car just as blackness starts to settle. Laughing my ass off and glad to be alive. So to answer your question Jamin. A bolt kit, with a new bit, holder, and a couple of 1/4" bolts and hangers may get you out of trouble, but may not, as my true example demonstrates.

Nice stuff dudes! Side note of advice: Mike, don't be displaying those plastic bags at home thinking you'll be picking up or impressing the ladies. "Oh, that's a classic stool sample collected when Wayne and I did the SW Ridge of Triumph", ... see, I think it loses something in the translation.

No Feck: what you said was " Time to fess up and out em.

There is no evidence that you climb dude. If all you want to do is talk pedophile stuff, you need to go elsewhere. This is a climbing site.

Thurs maybe for me.

Oh Oh....OUTTED ME!

You kidding Carl? On your very worst day, you still aren't anywhere near this dude, he just shows up pissing and moaning - totally non-productive, adds nothing positive, of note or interesting: only complaining about everyone one else doing the same and then leaves. At least the rest of us aren't pissing and moaning about people pissing and moaning, this dudes has just lowered the bar a full 2 notches. He's probably sitting there with the barrel in his mouth right now. My advise to Roadking: just squeeze the trigger dude, get it over with. Roadking: heres my sig pic btw if it helps to brighten up your day so you don't off yourself;

I think I read it someplace on teh intrnet, must be true.

What, "stupidest threads ever", no way. This might call for a Nodder revival, or largest housecat thread bump? Please!

Clic this and consider yourself topped:-) "Pwned by the Bone" © link to aforementioned Pwnage

Beal Edlinger II 10.2mm Rope - Dry, 10.2 mm x 70 m Under $100 60M $ 83.97 You hear it right. OMG! I POSTED TAHT AFTER GETTING BACK FORM DOG MT HIKE YESTERDAY. i AM SUCH A WEAK ASSED PUSSY I TOTALLY SPACED. SORRY! Link

Well theres 2:27 min of my life I'll never get back. Porter, you want to try again ad this time try to find something passably interesting? Good talkin to ya: not!

I should note that last weekend some old HS buddies, families (including mine) and friends got together for a barbecue, we do this occasionally and we are still in touch. It wasn't all a horror show....just most of it. I was self medicated/anesthetized for a good part of it, and that helped. I loved college, and I've come to believe that it's my learning style: in HS, they MAKE you go, and for me, its a case of ...you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. Took my GED and scored high enough to get into any University in the US. And it was good.....

Your pictures! All I have is butt shots and banana slugs in cracks:-( And don't even have those for today climbing, although I have hopes!

That was just the teachers. Dont get me started about some of those other asswipes.