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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. Got to agree with you. It makes you wonder if this guy has any outdoor experience or if he's just trolling.
  2. me
  3. Shapp, thanks dude I saw those pics! Looks great. I had flashbacks. Sad to say I don't have any pics from either of those places. Elgin wall (think you mispelled it Elin), was where I saw that rope break on that kid under body weight. Been a long long time for me. The slab looks the same as when we did it in 77. Nice to see scaredsillys post too with the FA info on that one. I'd heard that but forgotten it.
  4. Strong= I can do 3 pullups. In a row. That's like, all at once without stopping. ________________________________________________ OK, not right now maybe, I hurt my left arm bad hanging with the Tappett Bros.
  5. Any of you beyotches still climb? What did ya do last weekend?
  6. Sandy Brown, now theres a name I haven't heard in a while. Sandy could pretty much do it all, with rock ascents up NW face of 1/2 Dome and alpine ascents on Denali. Some good ice climbing gets done occasionally on that part of the world too. I wish I'd paid better attention to things I did over there, as I was climbing all the time. I can't remember FA's I named 2 months ago, so I'm pretty much a dry hole. Sorry. _________________________________________________________________ BTW, since you knew Ken: in case you're wondering how he passed, it wasn't via climbing. @ early 1980's or so? (guessing on the date)Ken was a wildlife biologist working in Alaska. He died when the skiff he was running to purse seine some fish hit a wave sideways flipped. He sank like a rock and died immediately. Thats what I heard and am pretty sure about, conjecture is I heard/understand he had a survival suit on, don't know if it filled with water or what. Tht part never made sense to me, so who the hell really knows for sure. Just a sad thing to a young dude is all. People in my family still will still occasionally say "He Cronked it" when referring to a person grabbing and stuffing all visible available food into their mouth. Pretty much heard something similar happened to Danny Wright in Alaska too. Damn boats are dangerous. (more of a PDX- Smith climber) Edited to add: Re, Mountainproject, good on you for putting this stuff down finally! Please ignore the fool yipping like an out of control lapdog.
  7. Link to cures for poison oak Read this and act immediately.
  8. "No contamination on Skinner’s harness By Angus M Thuermer Jr. September 15, 2007 An investigation of the climbing harness that failed and sent Lander, Wyo. climber Todd Skinner plunging to his death in Yosemite National Park last October found no signs of contamination that might have weakened the safety webbing. The report by Yosemite ranger M. Faherty has been awaited by climbers worldwide who were stunned by the death of Skinner, a well-known pioneer, and the unusual failure of his safety gear. The Jackson Hole News&Guide obtained a copy of the report Friday through the Freedom of Information Act. Climbers know that a critical part of the nylon webbing harness, a belay loop, broke and caused Skinner, 47, to fall 800 feet from the overhanging wall of Leaning Tower. At the time of his death, Skinner was descending the face after a day of climbing, sliding down a rope using a friction device linked to the belay loop. Climbers also know that Skinner’s harness was worn, that his climbing partner, James Hewitt, commented on its poor condition, and that Skinner agreed the harness needed replacing. Skinner was wearing an Arc’Teryx Targa harness. Tests of new belay loops similar to the one on Skinner’s harness, which were conducted by another climbing equipment manufacturer, showed them to be strong enough to hold body weight, even when cut most of the way through. Climbers wondered whether Skinner’s harness might have been contaminated and weakened by a foreign substance. The Park Service report found no evidence of that. Faherty wrote in his investigation that he sent the torn belay loop to Rhodia/Nexis Fibers in Switzerland for a chemical analysis. “On 06/15/07, I was notified by Rhodia representative Elman Ernst that ‘apart from the residues of the original spin-finish, no substances could be extracted from [the] analysed part of the loop’. ...” the report says Also, Faherty’s report discounts the possibility that animals may have gnawed on the harness when it was cached. Skinner left his harness overnight at the base of the climb, stored in a bag. “There was no sign of tampering by animals or people,” Faherty wrote. The report comes to no conclusion as to why the belay loop broke. Faherty makes several observations, however, that could lead climbers to a conclusion. Skinner’s partner reiterated in interviews with rangers that he observed the loop “had been about 20 percent worn through three days prior,” to the accident. Faherty wrote that he, too, “also observed that the harness was extremely frayed and worn where the belay loop should run through the ‘swami belt’ and the leg loops.” “The belay loop appeared worn near where it was torn,” Faherty wrote. “The actual torn section appeared frayed. I could see no fusing of Nylon fibers suggestive of a shock load...” Faherty also found a sling girth-hitched to the broken belay loop, which Hewitt believed had been in place for some time and prevented the belay loop from rotating and absorbing wear evenly. “Also broken was the keeper strap on the leg loops,” ranger Faherty wrote. Loss of the keeper strap would free the leg loops to saw against belay loop, often in the same spot, given Skinner’s harness set-up. Those observations support climber Will Gadd’s theory, published in a recent issue of Outside magazine, that the sawing leg loops contributed to the belay loop’s failure." Link here
  9. "Clinton good, Bush bad" Oh look, bears actually do shit in the woods! Oh look, the sky is blue. Oh look, backrubs feel good. Oh look, the Pope is Catholic. Oh look, the republicans are bankrupting our country for no apparent reason. Oh look..................
  10. Thanks Vert! Meant Dave Jensen. Baud came through this area in 1982 or 3? Think they skiied the North face of Hood that tour. I asked him "How to you stay in such good shape for climbing"? He looked at me funny, confused. All he did was climb. Then climb some more.
  11. Mountain Gear, new trango brassies on sale
  12. Well good luck with it. I worked in the VA hospital after the Vietnam war. More than 1 dude gave up on it and said "Saw the fucker off". That cronic pain thing is not fun at all. At all. Don't envy you. How did you get hurt?
  13. I did a 3 pitch route at that grade that went up a slab in that area out of Angel Basin near Anthony in 1977 (nuts and hexes only) with Richard Candelaria and the late Ken Cronk. Don't know the peaks name. We consensused it at 5.6 as well. Sounds very similar, out on the face for most of it. I can see that route in the distance when I'm skiing Anthony just as I'm about to get off the chairlift looking to the left about 10-11 o'clock or so. Sweet Sweet Granite! My brother has suggested to me that it had been done earlier, in the 60's. The late Lute Jerstad (Lute Jerstad Adventures) had a climbing school as well, and all the lil 1/4'ers on the short wall near the basin the other direction were his for the school. You'll probably trip over those soon enough, thats where they came from. (Lute was on the first American Everest expedition, and the Sherpas said he had a heart attack while hiking in that area of Nepal 2 days after visiting his old climbing teamates Barry Bishops ashes and the remains of Jake Brietenbush at Tengboche Monestary about 10 years ago.) I think Don (?) Jensen is still alive and living over there someplace, but sorry I can't direct you his direction. I think he did most of the cliffs in the area at one time or another including some real amazing shit. Like lots of people over that way, they just quietly go about doing world class feats and not only don't chestbeat, but often rarely mention it.
  14. Link
  15. Old news. It explains why we're in Iraq and also why Bush Jr is committing 1.2 billion $ to Hydrogenated trans fat fuels. It's time to step away the suburban and Tahoes boyz. Unless you want to have your kids killed for them. I don't.
  16. Saw all that crap right off. Right off.
  17. Hang in there Muff! Sounds like the diagnosis should be "Porter Foot". Did Layton just bump this cause of the title?
  18. SHOW THE HOLE SHOW THE HOLE SHOW THE HOLE SHOW THE HOLE !
  19. I doubt that his girlfriend, who wanted to do that trip, wants to travel to a heated, non-culturally interesting, vacant, dry, shithole. I like the place, but that's me. Where the pics or tr of that s/hole anyway Shapp?
  20. No, the final word was already presented, quoted by me. It was someone who posted on this thread other than me and put here: Link to the final word on bolting thread So there is really NO NEED to continually rehash this old point. Been THERE, DONE that. and Lucky: never met ya, but I'd tie in with you. As far as the Russians, I defer to folks who've been there. Unfortunately not all K2 climbers will: the great climbers John Smolich and Alan Pennigton will not be speaking on the subject. Nor will I do so in their place. Bless you all, may you all live long and prosper.
  21. It's the radiation.
  22. Thats hot
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