billcoe

100 percent bone all the bone and nothing but the bone. (ie, thats Kevins route) It's funny Kevbone lives on this site and hasn't checked in on this thread to tell us the size of the installation, lets change the title and see if he see's it. That should rile him all up. However, the odds of it being a 3/8-16 stainless steel US anchor brand goes up to @ 90 percent I believe. Making your job easier. If you need anything from me, like a few of these Esna nuts, let me know I'll figure out how to get you a few.

Me too. sorry.

Grrr: same! This must be Porters fault. LOL

Trying this in a larger version.

3 of the dudes put that up post here all the time. Kevbone, Crimper and MarkD. They can tell you the bolt size. I think it's a 3/8-16 stainless steel wedge anchor. If it is, get a 3/8-16 Esna Nut stainless steel, put the flatwasher then the hanger on (Flatwasher is not critical but helps strengthen the hanger) then thread the nut on the stud and with a torque wrench, torque it down to 25-30 foot lbs. If it's the larger 1/2-13 stud, torque it to 50-60 foot lbs. The alternate method is get a standard stainless steel nut and use loctite. ___________________________________________________________ Good luck! ps - here is the spec sheet on that wedge anchor. It is most likely this US Anchor brand as that's what was pretty prevalent, however, if you know it's a Powers drop (or any other check their web site) the torque down to 20 foot lbs for a 3/8" bolt, or better to consult their web site rather than my poor memory.

Be better once 9mm is available again.

As I get older, I find that I am on occasion, getting horribly painful cramps in the insides of my thighs after climbing. I'd seen some good info on this site about Accelerade and the other version they make and started using it. Same cramps. Jimmy O suggested I do "Calm", which I did and it worked much better. However, it's not a sports drink and tastes like crap. I had seen John Friehs recommendation that all the Hammer stuff was the best. So I tried the Heed. Hammer Heed electrolyte drink. IT IS THE ONLY THING THAT WORKED TO STOP THE CRAMPS. I don't know a hell of a lot, but I do know that much. The stuff is expensive, which I think prevented me from committing to it at first. Worth it - for me. Now I'm keeping the electrolyte pills in the car so I always have some if the need is there.

This place is further out than you would want to deal with Kevin. Convenience can be had close to your house. You can toprope at the butte or lap bolts at Ozone. This is something else. Its about the challenge and working the mental game. Cheecat, my wife says I already stick my nose into people business too much as it is, but I'd really, really suggest you not post the name (again), and hints like a previous common name or location. It won't be a good thing, mark my words. You should consider letting this go for years more along the path it's successfully been on and the history will be even more firmly ingrained. Discussing it in general terms is a good thing, as it will expose us to different ideas and attitudes, but going any further may lead to all kinds of sadness for you. There are all kinds of folks out there, best to only let in the ones you personally know for a while. Check this for instance: Crazy, needless shit link lest you think it's just crazy people, The Warbler is the well respected and well known yosemite climber Kevin Worrell. Good luck with your choices, your area: and warm regards! Bill

DOG TOSS COMPETITION GAINS OLYMPIC STATUS

My son turned me onto it. Loved watching it regularly with my boy before he headed off to college. Great stuff. I don't think you have to be living in the desert with guys to appreciate the Redhead either.

The most important thing is to keep the thing in a rope bag. Even having rope bags but just putting it down unbagged by the side of the road before putting it in your bag can open you up to invisible sulpheric acid damage. (say bubba had his battery out on the road right there the previous week) Some guy found this out not long ago when his relatively new rope parted in 2 as he was taking his gym certification lead climbing fall. Short fall. rope broke. Link to rope story Although it's rare, I've have personally seen this occur one time, at Elgin Wall, and that was enough for me. Light kid rappelling. Rope failed. Fortunately the screaming ended soon enough when the kid went unconscious. We carried the kid out on a rope stretcher we made and he was lucky to have survived. Bless cell phones:-) They were not around then. The German UIAA president had posted a treatise essentially that age doesn't matter as long as there is not visible damage (cores/rockfall - feel the rope for internal issues like Joseph says above) and there's not any chemical issues. You can google for it. This flew in the face of the rope Mfg recommendations which is generally much shorter (mfg dependant) like 1-3 years retire it depending on how much climbing you are doing. I think climbing every weekend they are talking 3 years. Each rope comes with a tag detailing lots of dos and dont's and what that mfg is suggesting for that rope. The phrase "When in doubt, throw it out" should be memorized. (ie, not throw it in the garbage per see - make a lead rope a toprope or a toprope a backup or cleaning line) I know I memorized it, but have a difficult time following the advice.

Same to ya on the first part sir! Now for the important part. PBR? OMG! Bryan, bryan, bryan! My Man! I recoil in horror and have failed as a parent substitute if I have not conveyed to you that PBR is shit and drinking good beer: that is, basically any microbrew (oh noes, beer snob sighting here:-), is paramount to ones mental health! I think a stint climbing and drinking in Germany, Italy and Spain should cure this malady and PBR sickness for you.

touche!

Rough crowd here today. Well, I think some of you can't see it cause you've never felt or experienced this. So here's one experience at another area in support of no bolts at this single place Cheecat is discussing. Andrew and I were coming over Sonora pass last time back from the valley. Dave Hardin had let some of us Oregon climbers crash at his house in Sonora and the plan was to go climb some of the local rock at Lost World etc etc. We all thought this was a grand idea to have Dave as an unpaid guide as Royal Robbins had once hired him to guide and teach for his climbing class and we would be getting it free:-) Despite being old (our age) Dave is still putting up FAs in the area to 5.11 and he'd been leading in the 5.10 range in Yos when he'd come down to climb so it was super good all the way around as he knows the Sierras there like the back of his hand. As luck would have it, a huge tree had fallen over the road and we got locked out of Lost World, so we went down the way and did some small crag rock climbing. As we left, Dave had to get moving on, but thinking we'd been disappointed, he described to us a climbing area on the pass we should look for on the way home to get in another route or 2. Sure as shit soon enough we see beautiful granite rock on top of the pass off to the left. It has none of the features he described though, so we drive on before doing a u-turn and heading back. We spy what may be a line or 2. After a bit of brush beating (and that was a curious thing as with all the cars on the road which should have been carrying climbers, and we are at an altitude where the brush would not grow back fast and there should have been some sign of human presence) we finally get to the base. There had been and still was no sign of human presence, in fact there appeared to still have some loose rock on the line we'd spotted form the road. However, we had a rack and a rope and had done all that brush beating.....Andrew was looking dubious but given I thought we should do something, he allows me the lead. We cranked up, I belayed off a tree that had no tat and there had been no evidence that anyone had ever been here -even the loose rock and gravel my feet scraped onto Andrew indicated such. Yet it was in sight of the car and a road which surely must have carried climbers over the pass to Yosemite all the time. We went up and down and had a grand adventure. We saw nothing and we left nothing for the next party to see. It was the most memorable thing on the trip. Very very fun and an amazing feeling...did we do a First Ascent? Perhaps, perhaps not, not the point. Did that even matter? No, but we had a fun adventure. Real real genuine thing, and different from the great climbing we had done in the valley with topos and beta. Much more powerful feeling. Yet the little crack we'd run up would really have not been any more than a pimple on El Caps ass. Yet when I strain my mind and think of the yos climbing we did, I'm sure we did some classics -nothing stand out as starkly interesting and powerful as this thing. We did the 8 or so pitches Serenity/Sons of Yesterday in @ 3-1/2 hours up and down....with 3 people -pitching it out and no simulclimbing on this trip. Snake Dike too as one of our party had not done it and she wanted too....a bunch other classics as well, I'd bet. So that's the magic. That's the point. Trying to leave the experience for the next person is what is going on at this crag. I didn't understand what Cheecat was getting at early on in this thread, perhaps now some of you can get see it or at least be a step closer to visualizing it. Instead of attacking him, maybe you can find some value in there someplace in having this type of thing still in the world ...someplace. Warm regards all! Bill

Here's Adam, I would never confuse the 2 of you. Link to Adam Trip report

I think we're just old. But thank you for the kindness jeff:-)

I think Kevinos talkin about when the sheath slips relative to the core. Yeah, I had a thick rope that I rapped single line with a Cinch on when it was new, and the sheath started slipping and it still does and has since the event. (Beal/Black Diamond) Climbed on it last night toproping. But it's a 19 fall 11 mil that is 3 years old with no falls on it.

To you Kevin. It "sounds like a huge waste of rock" TO YOU. Which is why you won't be climbing there. You know that you are not speaking for me and obviously some others.

Super sweet John! Is the garage door opener on? Thursday after work perhaps? BTW, it would be a great thing if you and Bryan hooked up with Adam (picture with ice axe in the moss above from last Saturday) at some point. Small world his girlfriend lives @ less than 1/2 mile from you in the new townhouses off MLK and Deekum. Turns out, she was first responder and and attended to the woman who fell at HT, you guys must have been standing shoulder to shoulder at some point there on Sunday.

Afraid of being yelled at by 30 intolerant liberals eh>? Sounds like a don't ask don't tell policy, probably not a bad idea. Myself, I don't equate gay marriage with not allowing political freedom based on skin color: and don't know how others can....but based on a quick read here it appears they often do. We all see the world through our own little lenses, and it seems to be magnified on religion, social issues, and ...hmmmm forgot, but there was something else I'll bet. POLITICS! I remembered. ps, love reading your posts and also JH debating posts as well STP. I find I have to slow down and read slowly as you both have deep, interesting and valid points which often appear to directly conflict.

NO Way Prole. Not me. Because I think local control on these issues is fine with me. We haven't had gay marriage ever in this country since it's founding, if a state (or all of them) chose to allow it, I'm fine with it. Good for them. Others are reading this to mean that each state should NOT be able to pick and choose if they can do this, and you and the readers and posters here appear to believe that George Bush SHOULD be able to dictate, on a national level, if this kind of thing can occur or not. So when King George says NO F*ing WAY this shit will ever happen under his watch, bammm - End of discussion, the King has spoken "we're done discussing this I'm off to church now". I don't much like that set up myself. You do. I don't. Simple.

Well I attribute it to intelligence. Others attribute it to lack of the same. I've long suspected many other cc.comers mostly just read the first 4-6 words of any random post and guess the rest as they start typing a furious response detailing their strong objections to what is inside of their heads based on a persons first 4 or 5 words though. ps, ask me sometime about how Samuel L Jackson helped my family out when we got lost near where ground zero of the LA riots had just happened.

I use to get more life out of ropes. I'd buy phat 11mils and they'd be lead ropes for @3 -4 years and then be relegated to topropes and jugging/cleaning lines till they looked or felt untrustworthy, usually 2-4 more years, then I'd chop out the bad spots and use them for toprope anchors. Lately, I seem to be chopping or wearing them out faster than that. This one is 3 years old (the cheap $100 Mammut 10.5 came with a rope bag) and this happened with a heavy guy and myself rappelling on it, and I was toprope soloing up it, and only for 25-35 feet till I pitched and took this horrendous testicular shrinking king swing and couldn't get back on route so I bagged it. Next weekend, I came down from the top, rappelled the first rope, this was the 2nd, I was still 160 feet off the deck or so when my hand felt the core shot. I had a rope protector, but it must have slipped. This rope below. (I haven't retired it yet as it's only 3 years old. Just using it still elsewhere seen in this pic @ 2 weeks ago, 6 months after the chop and trying not to use the core shotted end.) This overhang I'm rapping. It wore where it was touching the rope, right near the top there. I have 5 brand new ropes in my basement still in the bags. I was thinking and reflecting on this very fact recently when I was rapping Ujahns soaking wet 10-11 year old POS in the driving rain, wondering on it's ability to not give up on my fat ass. I think if you have a 9.1 and use it regularly, 3 year should be max. But a full 11mil 19 fall rope, pftt, 10 years or until it chops. Toproping and lowering wears them out faster unless you're projecting a lead and falling, which I don't or rarely do.

Damn, I wish I'd seen this earlier Bryan and John, Phil Guidutti and I were out that way yesterday. I'm thinking Tue - Thurs are good days as it lets my bones rest and my wife wants to go on walks Wednesday as well. Crap I'm inexplicably out of shape, every muscle in my upper body is sore today...good times. I've been getting out and gardening throughout the winter with an occasional route tossed in. Must not be enough. Jasmine says since I'm so old, weak and tired I can be the camp bitch in Yosemite next month. She has me practicing "Do you guys want waffles or pancakes for breakfast" and "Here, I'll clean that up for you I need a rest day and am staying in camp"....she's been teasing me unmercifully with variations of this theme and she seems to get hours of laughter out of this:-) So I'll be in for more laps and real rock bouldering moving forward. Have fun tonight! ps, you guys will like this one. Adam on a ground up FA last week, check out the ice axe:-) I think it's for fending off slug attacks.

When I read this, I assumed it was also infering to allowing a state like Vermont to be able to make local choices without a right wing christian-big government or George Bush style political ass-stomping telling them otherwise. Of course, allowing states the ability to chose there own path you may have states like Georgia having consent to marriage age of 13 or 14 and places states perhaps like Alabama allowing brothers and sisters to marry. Might even have prostitution in parts of Nevada. ....wait