Dr_Flash_Amazing

Perhaps you're missing the point, which is not whether or not they are both artificial, which they clearly are, but rather the nature of the climbing is entirely different. A3 is hard in a much different way than 5.12 is hard, right? Because with aid climbing you are having to be sneaky and tricky and crafty with the little hooks and smashy coppery guys and bad gear and whatnot, but ... you're hanging in a harness and standing in aiders, and the gear's doing the physical part for you (mostly). Chipped 5.whatever is still as physically demanding as natural 5.whatever, and in any case far more physically demanding than A-whatever. So no, it's not like hard aid; you're not going to zipper the pitch if you fall, and the difficulties are physical rather than psychological. Nailing only incidentally scars the rock. Like climbing on quarried rock, it is chipping only in the sense it is human-altered, not in the sense of HOLD MANUFACTURED TO MAKE CLIMBING EASIER. But aren't people busting out the pins and aiders because they can't free the moves? I.e. "to make climbing easier"? Should they simply back off until someone strong enough can free it? Because either by pin-whacking or chipping, the route is still being physically altered to make climbing easier. But the Nose IS chipped due to stupid Jardine traverse, which is why only sporto like Yuji, and crackhead like Scott Burke, will try to free it. According to Alex Huber, because it uses chipped holds, it has not yet been free climbed. I say he's right. Lynn Hills ascent was impressive but "free", naw. Yeah, stupid Ray Jardine and his stupid Grape Race. Funny that the inventor of super-versatile clean protection would be a chipper. Go figure.

So, pounding pins in order to summit (must summit to satisfy the ego!) is OK, even if it does leave permanent gaping holes in the rock. Chipping holds on a route in order to finish it (must send and satisfy the ego!) is not OK, because it leaves gaping holes in the rock. Got it. Thanks! PS - Smash your telephone!

Mostly illegible.

Sorry, but half-pad two-finger pockets (or however big the chipper chipped them) are very much harder to grab than a big aluminum handle. There's a critical distinction between pulling on holds (artificial or not) using your muskles and hanging in your harness and/or standing in aiders. Erik, if you're going to try and tell the Doctor that the Pioneer Route is as hard as Kings of Rap (or some other chip-dependent route), you're loopy. And while we're at it, are pinned-out cracks aid also? That'd make Lynn Hill's send of The Nose aid, along with goodness knows how many other hard crack routes that've been freed subsequent to their pin-scarring. Viva el sport vs. trad battlecage!

"sixty-two holed air-cushion boots and a girl who drives a scooter to take him out of town they would get away riding around as the trucks drive by you can hear the motherfuckers go [truck noise, trumpet solo]"

WHAT?! You can't just GIVE those things AWAY! Dr. Flash Amazing poured his heart and soul into every page, every paragraph, sentence, and word! For God's sake, man, you probably didn't even use the 15% off coupon for a DFA Inspirational Hangdogging wall calendar! Psh. Some people!

Yeah, and Dr. Flash Amazing explained why you were wrong. If you wanna slander drilled sport routes, awesome, do so with gusto. But please, slander them correctly. Saying they're A1 sounds real cute, but it's really not an accurate description.

No necesitas ayada, necesitas una cabaza que no tiene rocas in it. Como se dice the last part of that en Espanol correcto?

Yeah, they're cute, but deep down, they're just horrid creatures.

Huh? Look, aren't you one of those high-technology computer nerd guys or something? Don't you have a commensurately zippy internet connection? Or are you using, to quote you, "some hamster wheels and an abacus"? Sheesh!

breaking out the portaledge on north point... Something like that ...

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Go for it, you raucous reptilian! GRRRRRRAAAAAAWWWWRRRRRR!!!!!!

Hey, Iain, your post number is a palindrome! Head on over to Orange Julius to claim a free small Orange Julius beverage of your choice! Oh, and don't forget to touch your nose three times and tell them you're there to pick up something for Dr. Flash Amazing!

Because spilling blood is the only correct way to solve an international dispute?

Cough syrup binge?

Such a grand sweeping insult, with extra points for talking down to me; I don't think you left anything out of that one... I am crushed. Don't be too crushed. He didn't call you gay or threaten to shoot you, nor did he call into question your masculinity or sociopolitical views. DFA would give it ... oh, say, a 73%. Solid C material, but not too far from slipping off into D territory. Greg, you're capable of better work!

This renaming of things with "french" in their name is one of the dumber things ever. And whattabout French's mustard, people? Freedom's? Ludicrous in the extreme. Freedom technique, freedom free (!), freedom tickler ... Blah.

So you're into the big guys now, huh?

Sly wit -- so that's what you call an inflated ego and a gun? Roger Ebert gave it "two thumbs up, WAY up! I was out of my seat cheering, and then I wet my friggin' pants!"

What? John is dead? Huh?

Someone have a pint of whatever Maritime Pacific beer they're pouring for DFA!

What a goob! And apparently Master Beta is stupid. A plus 2.5 ape is quite run-of-the-mill.

Who knows? Is "pass the pitons pete" anything like Big Wall Pete?