matt_warfield

Trip: RMNP Colorado - Petit Grepon Date: 8/31/2008 Trip Report: I am just exercising my right to report on this climb from a previous date. I have no pictures since my camera and pictures were stolen by prostitutes in Seattle. Don't ask. You can get a picture on the interweb. It is one of the 50 Classics so a lineup is usual. But it is spectacular climbing up great and exposed 5.8+ to one of the tiniest summits around. About 3 feet wide. It is definitely not the time to trip on your shoelaces. My first attempt was aborted but I felt it necessary to return as RMNP is one of my favorite places on earth and I was determined and was successful on return. The ravens have learned how to pull zippers on your pack so it takes about as much time to secure your gear as climb the rock. It takes snafflehound in a whole different direction. Just like on TV where they say they will double the offer (just pay a bunch of processing and handling), I will add a second segment and not charge P + H. Syke's Sickle on Spearhead: It was another long day car to car event. As usual in CO, you do an alpine start so you can get off the rock before lightning happens. 5.7 at 6:00 a.m. is surprisingly challenging. But the crux on Syke's is a devious layback, stem, overhang challenge. It is like Cirque du Soleil in a harness at 12000 ft. Finished by a delicate traverse with one bolt. I sure wish I had pictures but like I said I was compromised and I lost pictures of them as well.

That's kind of how it works. Agreed. 1) Be a climber 2) Be a climber with a dream like K2 3) Climb K2 and have a big adventure 4) Get lost 5) Help some people; and remember some is better than none 6) Write a book that mixes a bit of creativity with truth 7) Make millions off that work and for a related charity 8) Screw up the finances that separate church and state 9) Have heart problems 10) Look up the definition of "villified" BS or not, he did more good for this world than most of us have. And it is slippery slope from being a climber to being an author to being a wounded author.

I walk by CAI every other day. They share their building with several others and have secured access for obvious reasons. My opinion is that Greg has done very good work despite the fact that there is some information that is not infallible. He put himself into a very difficult situation with a mix of fact and creative license and has had to live through a shitstorm while his life was on the line. If investor's are pissed, it is probably most about the money.

In the event you don't get a reliable source here (I have been to Owens and Buttermilks only so am not one), but if you call Mammoth Moutain Supply or Wilson's Eastside Sports in Bishop you will get a wealth of information without having to use GPS.

Folks on this site don't always have the best bedside manners but nevertheless have extensive experience.

Problem is, which one if they are equal on the "girly" scale.

in truth, my dear wife thinks EVERYONE is an asshole 'except, oddly, tvash n' his sal, col! And in truth, this is why I am no longer married. I only tried 4 times but only twice to crazy ones. No big deal except for a few days in jail, a foreclosure, a couple of blackmails, and a bunch of money gone. But, back to Beacon. I still haven't climbed there. au contrare, my wife's one of the least crazy chix i know, her judgement's impeccable! as to beacon, dood, yer pre-life phuck-ups are just BARELY credible to swap craps w/ these cretins! You, of all people should have experienced a few crazy ones along the way. My bet is you should have run for marital president. Or perhaps I have a special touch. All I am saying is once you've been to Squamish or Yosemite, or Rocky Mountain National Park, you know you have been kissing your sister at Beacon. But then I have spent 100 days at Vantage and more at E32 and E38 near Seattle so my sister's lipstick is all over my face.

Yes, and mvs has posted a few trip reports here from over there and is a really good guy. Also guide services that guide in Europe will have lots of info.

I like the idea of the boxed wines not only for outdoor practicality but to reduce the environmental impact of all the glass. I know snobs won't agree but I did spend $137 on a bottle for my 4th honeymoon. It didn't work as I am again single. I am detecting a pattern.

Well, when I was young and strong I would just carry a sixer or two. Getting older made me smarter. The ultimate without doing anything light and illegal would be Everclear and Tang. Anyway PD, welcome to the site. You can see what happens.

And you can save the rest in the glass jug with a handle till later. I heartily agree with Cale's thorough response. If in the outdoors, glass for wine is too heavy. Needs to go in water bottles or plastic soda bottles. But gin is lighter for the effect. I'm not admitting anything though. I probably read it on the internet.

The Mountaineers are a group where you could get started or at least meet some people. Climbing gyms are also a rich target source for meeting people. You may get some action from this site but it can be hit and miss until you get to know the folks. It is a good idea to be registered instead of lurking. Be sure to keep track of the Partners thread. And offering ivan some wine could get you a jump start one way or the other. If you have a few bucks, taking a course from a guide service would give you a fast start on learning new skills. Check the ads on this site for a start. And go shmooze with staff at climbing shops who are rich with information and experience. Go get some. Eventually you can fill your rolodex and increase your skills.

As long as it isn't a hoochie-mama that is covered with fur and weighs several hundred pounds and will break into any car that has any food product in it. And camp 4 has a parking lot. And the issues with getting a site goes against the grain of the origins of Camp 4.

Thanks for the clarification. I had assumed it was about the "ice" festival. Hope your cold goes away and Bozeman's cold returns.

Be sure to check out the Hyalite ice conditions thread run by keenwesh. You may not run into the best of Hyalite on this trip. We have a warm trend right now. Shorts and tshirts in town. 50 deg. tomorrow. PM the jetstream and the weather gods with complaints.

Well, I guess you answered my question about sailor's language.

I agree with PH but people drive every day from the airport in Bozeman to ski and from their homes in Bozeman to work in Big Sky. It is a dangerous road but well maintained and risk seems small for anyone who puts pointy things on their feet and in their hands and climbs ice. Plus we need to know what you mean by "sweet hookup". It could be important to the discussion.

I hope you guys have a good trip. I had a friend from there who moved to the U.S. and he said both countries got smarter in the process.

It sounds like the New York Marathon cancellation due to Sandy. People spent lots of time and money to participate. Just come prepared to meet some great people at the Icefest, ask a lot of question, drink some beer, but be willing to go where the conditions are best. I would not recommend Glacier NP or Yellowstone NP for your goals. Beartoths and Tetons are possible. Come over, have fun, and adaptable. Expect a response from keenwesh, and seek him out at the Festival. I am more of a rock climber with some peripheral knowledge of ice.

Driving should be fine but weather dependent. If you're willing to drive to Canmore, other areas in the U.S. within that distance may have better conditions. Consider areas like Cody Wyoming and Rocky Mountain National Park Colorado.

only if yer shelling out the big shekels to stay in them thare high-priced shacks! us po'boys in camp iv and da wal-mart parking lot pines got nothing to fear Good strategy and much healthier. Deer mice in crowded tent areas brings a whole new level to the definition of snafflehound. The bears and thieves and sailor language in camp 4 might be frightening to children. There is always Midnight Lightning for kev, but Tuolumne sounds much better for the fam.

It is B.S. (BullShit), M.S. (More of the Same), and Ph.D. (Piled higher and Deeper). Tongue in cheek of course. I wonder how many pages a thread on HIV, malaria, or cancer would take on a climbing web site to sort out. It would take a Ph.D. in anger management, debate, and herding cats.

Julian, I do not disagree at all. But GGK's point was onsight. To try to agree with everybody, I will say that what Whittaker and Randall did was very specific to offwidth at a very high level of difficulty. I don't think a high end sport climber used to other types of climbs is going to walk up and do Century Crack onsight without the prep you discuss. But they probably could if they wanted to as has been pointed out previously.

And the views alone should blow the mind of anybody that is old enough to be aware. At the risk of competing with the 15 page flu thread, you should be aware of hantavirus issues with camping inside the Park.

Okay, I acquiesce and now agree with you and Rudy. But Dreamcatcher and the 13s Marc spoke of could catch his attention. I would say the reason is that the weather isn't attractive enough but then Britain and Norway are not that special either. But hell when you are that young you can't have been everywhere anyway. I also appreciate your comment about how many ascents go unreported.