RuMR

it doesn't double your rack...it doubles the range of your rack... you gonna lead a 120 foot pitch w/ 3 cams? Or are you gonna take 6???? Waste of money if'n you ask me...

No erik...its the one that the clownpuncher dropped in the climbing forum...

you and your damn tinkerbell "sportivi'mawuss" foot! TENAYA OR DEATH!

Totally agree...man, when you know you're comin' off but aren't quite off...whoah, full on panic alert...that's even when your rational mind knows the gear's good... Although on a hard redpoint on my 6000000th try, I'm usually screaming "FUCK" because i'm pissed not scared...same thing as your point that once you've fallen, its erased some of those little doubts in your brain!

...along with never falling

I absolutely agree w/ Tex...if you look at each of the 3 methods i described, you'll see that they all keep you safe and all result in a successful ascent...its just that sometimes that successful ascent isn't on the first try...i think sometimes you're gonna have to work a little bit harder to guarantee your safety/success...also, they compliment each other... look at it this way...say you are going to go redpoint a solid .11c, yet the hardest thing you've successfully completed onsight is .10a...well, you are gonna have to get strong...much stronger than you are now...one way is to work an .11c into the ground while training specifically for that route's redpoint on days you can't get on it...keep this up until that route is redpointed and you will notice your onsight is creeping UP in level from .10a...money says you'll be onsighting some 10+'s by the time that 11c goes down for a redpoint...

...that's why you are scared to lead...your gear is absolutely there to catch you, so you can go for it... OTW, just solo and save the energy needed to place it... who's been teaching you and where did you read this?????????? That's plain nuts/crap...also guaranteed to land you in a big fat rut as far as ability is concerned...and don't pull style on me...its stupid-like to pose down on 5.7 just cuz you don't want to push your limits on something that your physical body can climb but you'll have to work out...I think watching a climber who couldn't even work out the moves 1st try, suss something out, and then push himself/herself to their absolute physical max for a redpoint is infinitely superior style to someone who has all of the grace of a gazelle on some stupid route that any idiot could climb... There are three ways to climb in my book: 1.) Try for an onsight...select the route to match your ability...ie, if you are onsight .12b 50% of the time, there's a good likelyhood that you'll pitch...so pick one that has good gear available OR if you onsight .11a damn near ALL of the time, go ahead and pick a more dangerous route and feel free to rely on your climbing skill and not gear to save you... 2.) Try for a solo...onsight, better be waaaaaay below your protected onsight level...rehearsed...dial that motherfucker down and don't fall... 3. Redpoint/headpoint...rehearsed...go ahead and climb waaaay over your onsight level and fall fall fall fall fall then SEND...headpoint: dial that motherfucker down and don't fall.. its best to climb all 3 styles all of the time...each one compliments the other, period!

How's about bachar cracker...or the crack house...

Why? If the gear is good who cares???

ha! 99.99% chance of falling + the fact that i suck means i WILL fall! HA HAHAHAHA

People who climb hard. I plan not to fall, but realize that it is always a possibility -- regardless of the difficulty of the climb. uhhh...i'm with scott on this...many routes i get on, i KNOW i'm going to pitch before i get them sussed out...gear or bolts... You're not falling, you're not pushing yourself...simple as that...with that in mind, put the cam on the aid rack or throw it in the can... Funny thing...i've mushroomed lobes on small tcu's by falling on them...this is compression yielding in my book...not fracturing in a tensile sense...at least this is what i tell myself so as to keep the piece in service and not worry on it...

5'5" yer a midget!

yer kidding, right? god i hope so...

OMFG! That's a scary concept...

Hey Tim ...how's canucky land treatin' you? The reason why the ratings are going up instead of down is the gyms...rank beginners get on "10's" in the gym and then expect that grade to match outside...they then get spanked and bitch... I'll get back to you on your email...just super busy these days...

Bohanon = Trask

Funny! Your post heading...not your situation though... Is it every week or just every now and then??

man, i wish i could see it...

Sheesh greg...everyone here could respond that they could give a rat's ass about anything anyone posts here...seriously, i only read your right wing spew for a good laugher every now and then...to see how someone who seems rather intelligent can be full of sooooo much shit is laughable...so lay off of scott...i don't agree that its "what most people are thinking"...you're not interested, then move the fuck along... Scott! Your kid and mine will have to crank together sometime and run ropes up for us old doddering fools...

yeah...but that trango max cam seems solid and is competively priced w/ camalots...should be a winner... this omega deal, i dunno about...looks like trying to fly a brick (gold as well)...won't fly period...

Hey Mr.E... wanna hear sumpin' funny? My wife, at the HUGE height of 5'-1" tall flashed that thing...climbed all the way up, did the splits, reached down and USED HER LEFT ANKLE as a handhold...then hiked the rest of the route... Pissed me off...i fell off the stupid thing my first go! had to listen to endless heckling

not sure either...other than maybe engaging more of a flare's walls???? I don't know...seems overly complicated for sumpin that a plain ol' friend or camalot would handle no problems... Plus the are $pendy...

They are running around 90$ or so...kill your follower if he can't get it out...

w/ trango's max cam [/img] range from about ~ just less than 2" to 0.8"

ahh man, my hands just got sweaty reading that!