lunger

depending on weather in L-worth, might end up at the coulee this wknd. can't remember when last there. searched and turned up dated stuff. Qs: 1) still need a parking permit? guessing yes, those posts not quite as dated. anybody been cited recently? 2) can you camp behind the Feathers? Where are the good spots to camp within a decent drive? thanks for any info.

deeeee-luuuuuxxe

i would've taken credit for those gut-bombs, proud pieces of work they were. but i can't, as much as i feel they were a fitting tribute to the odious and odiferous dr layton. bon voyage kevin bacon/t-rex!

that looks pretty darn similar to a route m'lady and i took up there several years ago--definitely quality adventure climbing, w/ dinner plate dancing. did you pass a huge, thin flake at some point, jutting upwards?

hard to understand some of the responses. seems a legitimate point: if you don't properly train your dog for the environment you take it to, keep it leashed until trained, or don't take it. duh. i'm a new dog owner, and this makes sense to me--the initial knee-jerk reactions were heavy on the jerk. as for poop, pick that shite up, it's one of those things responsible people do out of consideration for fellow folk, just like, um, staying in the right lane except to pass. or turning off the cell phone in restaurants. riiiiight. bottom line: be a good ant in the colony, not a pissant.

thanks to all for the good info. It's been quite a few years. yeah i'm concerned re: snakes too--hope they are less active in the predicted cool(er) temps. also will prob. have to leash our curious (but not overly geeky in-your-face) puppy/dog. oh, reminds me, i recall reading about a bridge out (req. tyrolean) or somesuch nonsense--prob. repaired by now. we'll just have a look. thanks again.

For those with Local Knowledge, please help fill in some gaps for me, in order of importance (much thanks in advance): Q1: Do you still need a stupid permit to park near the Bend or Royal Col areas, and if so, where do you get it? ( Last time I was there, it was a diff. permit than the trial pass used 'round the Cascades--and I got a $60 ticket from the feds. ) Q2: Are dogs verboten at the crags? Q3: Camping suggestions? Camped at Windy last time, lived up to its name and then some. Q4: Hiking/trail running 'round there? The dog needs his exercise.

I hope you heal quickly, Porter. i'll bet on seeing you in the hills this winter, as the snowpack gets fat.

thanks! deserves awareness. and, one less unanswered question in my cluttered little mind...

nice work--'tis beautiful country back there. i like the term "Snoq Pickets" when we went in, same start, but then to the N of where you went, up Lemah Creek, then to this amazing valley/gorge. recommended day trip, but hanging out in that valley would be sweet too.

with a little running, and even a bivy (with wife, not trying to set any records), this was done in < 24h a few Septembers ago. i bet one of you enduros (e.g. OTHook) could do it in, hmmm, 12-13 hours. betting pool?

i hear-tell that a certain superdave has those wheaties for breakfast, then walks off... the comparison is tough, what you give up on Grand (continuity of line) is made up for by the length, and ***** climbing on many pitches. as said, both are awesome; but for us Puget Sounders, access to DHLA scores it points too.

bumblies have climbed Dome peak in < 24 hours.

thanks for the report. wonder what "issue 119" means... i've wanted to climb that NE chimney for years.

yeah klenke good info. btw, re: pythagoras, i think it works out to 8.3 cm, or 83 mm.

great write-up. liked the bit about new climbs sticking with you. good work.

sweeeeeeet.

fantastic route. nice work. this made me chuckle--somewhat uncomfortably--as we went the same way, and I had the same moderately bowel-shaking experience on that horror-show pitch. hahaha. sweeet blood-red rock.

Nice expose`, John, and good collection of pics. RE: this bit: "Depending on which line you follow (red or black) will determine what route you take to the false summit." We actually had the option to take either finish to false summit from the top of the pillar, and chose the left. I'm still not convinced that red line = FA route; recent discussion w/ the FA leads me to believe that they finished further right near the top. But, 20+ years is a long time to recall these kind of details. In the end, it's a big fat whatever--as you said, by whichever route, it's a stellar place for rockclimbing...

those pics are outstanding. looks like kick-arse climbing.

nice report portersteak, cool adventure. re: TBB, that's ok, never 'deserved' it anyway, you can call me "rolf".

Thanks for the clarification, happily don't have much experience w/ gigantic rockfall, seems feasible. Would v. much like to see your pic. PM or post, please.

thanks for the comments fellas. with a couple minor zags, we went straight up the center of the N facet of the Pillar. there're double cracks and a splitter that make a logical, nearly plum line up the center, w/ a little step left (w/in 40' of the top) to finish. we topped out on the knife edge of the pillar. then, we down-climbed left side of pillar c. 15 ft, and went up. (sounds like it would've been easier to go right and up? we wondered.) not sure how rockfall could've 'created' this line, unless there was rock that obscured, then revealed it. certainly wasn't any apparent scarring. there were scruffy seams off to our left at mid-height, but didn't seem a logical way to go...anyway, i plan to talk to the FA, just to slake curiosity. whatever the route, it was a great time and an engaging challenge. worthy of further investigation.

ok, your shots and report have put Gato back on the list. having climbed a line to the left of that earlier this year, i was skeptical. but G.N. looks a lot better. thanks!

Cool, thanks for the NW Butt descent beta--sounds like it might've been only marginally better right now. Yes, we did free the crux (K led it), and on TR it felt like Index 11-. My impression would likely be different if I'd drawn that pitch. Pitches 1 and 3 are 5.10 and tons o' fun.