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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. iain

    My REI wish list

    Yes it doubles as an effective cattle prod to get people to the top of hannigan pass.
  2. iain

    My REI wish list

    One of the bullet points for the Rolla-Roaster Folding Barbecue Fork: "Be a quick draw at the fireside--the nylon ballistic cloth belt pouch keeps your fork ever at the ready!" if only they were kidding
  3. It is open. Plenty of gladed skiing up there now. Snow has been melting rapidly since I was last in the area a few weeks ago, and there was not much snow in the vicinity of the highway.
  4. "She saw a group of kids in a circle, and she thought they were break dancing, which can happen," Tate said Mad props to the honors students keep'n it real
  5. He beat catbirdseat in a game of Jenga and made fun of his rock collection
  6. I thought components like maillon rapide links that pass ANSI (or is it OSHA) hoist standards are required to have a minimum 5:1 factor of safety. I could go dig up the reg. but I'm pretty lazy. I believe OSHA at least requires overall rigging to meet 5:1. But I will not argue with a structural engineer
  7. I love these events simply to read the postmortem analysis.
  8. iain

    Scarpa F1

    nope, not yet. I'm also looking into what garmont has to offer these days.
  9. iain

    Scarpa F1

    doesn't sound like what I'm looking for. I'm leaning more towards climbing performance than skiing, but better skiing performance than the invernos.
  10. iain

    Scarpa F1

    It looks like everything a tele boot wants to be!
  11. iain

    Goin' out in style...

    scrabble battlecage to the death.
  12. iain

    Scarpa F1

    Has anyone been using the Scarpa F1 out there? It looks like it would climb and hike pretty well for an AT boot. Can I use my sabertooth crampons on it? Does it work with diamir bindings with that bellows in the front? How well does it ski? Will I be beaten up on principle with that fluorescent yellow color? Thanks.
  13. Dunno but it is there so I thought I would use it When the 's a rockin' don't come a knockin' ?
  14. Would you shut up already? The pic is for the glue-ins, you don't have to turn every picture into an analysis of anchor set up.
  15. As always, it's a matter of how much risk you feel it is worth taking for such a route. Why climb it in off conditions? Luck becomes the deciding factor over skill. I slow down on the west side after April in general, and if possible, do that stuff in winter. It's just a lot more scenic and fun then. However, things like sandy hw have been climbed in June with good conditions. Hell, the old timers used to climb all that stuff in August. None of the incidents on the west side had to do with crevasses on the Reid Glacier. The bergschrund gets rather large, and cracks start opening up around the saddle a bit. There is no black and white go/no-go on that decision.
  16. rarely do I see a trip report on turns-all-year that documents a turd rolling down a glacier as a major event on a trip. you just can't buy that kind of entertainment.
  17. okay, I would lunge with my brake hand and do a few quick adrenaline-laced yards up the rope, spiral the rope around my leg to get some weight off, and try to get a hitch around the lines. some whimpering would be involved.
  18. I would have cratered already because there's no reason to hold the ropes above the rappel device.
  19. the idea of a jammed up atc keeping me off the deck is not particularly appealing. I'd probably still back it up w/ a prusik. I love hypothetical situations discussed to death on climbing boards. so, let's say it's raining, and you had two bananas for breakfast, and the gravitational flux is such that...
  20. whereever I may roam has become such a trade route it is best to avoid on the weekends, esp. since the standard rap line uses some of the anchors on the route itself. team climbs up to anchors, team raps down to same anchors, hilarity ensues.
  21. trezlar. you can avoid the crap first pitch by climbing the new 10ish super-long sporto route to the left on the face, then rap over to the start of the stellar second pitch and build an anchor.
  22. iain

    red hair

    it is a pain to club them and drag them back to the cave, isn't it?
  23. iain

    red hair

    And a round of odouls to all my friends!
  24. you honestly expect me to click on that attachment?
  25. iain

    red hair

    indeed. perhaps it has a clever nickname, such as "the tickler" or whatnot.
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