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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. iain

    Starting a rack

    The great thing about bd stoppers is the sets always go on sale when bd somehow comes out with yet another marketing trick to get the gear collectors to buy new stoppers. They're just pieces of metal folks. I like WC rocks (less of a taper on those) but they are never on sale. The camalots are damn expensive but the #0.5 - #2 are used a ton. Hexes are dynamite for places like Tieton, and they're dirt cheap. You don't want to lug those camalots around the pickets range or similar either.
  2. not sure if you are replying to me, but: try this scroll down a bit.
  3. There is a red'n waiting for one lucky soul on the north buttress of mt. fury.
  4. I bet one could find some super crack in or around Madras, though I only need step out to Burnside for this
  5. Before you fork down for an internet connection be sure there is not free internet access to be had floating through your livingroom already...all it costs is a 802.11 card...
  6. That Mike Wallace interview with O'Reilly was great! O'Reilly hinted he might vote for Kerry...probably not though. I hear he gives the prez some tough talk in that interview. GWB is hopeless w/o the string pullers within 100 feet of him!
  7. I think it's the barrel length more than the grip that matters, violating the former can come with a hefty prison sentence if I'm not mistaken.
  8. It's crap like this transparent lie that ticks me off the most.
  9. Yes, they do wear. I would not thread my rope through that. The fact that it continued to hold should tell you how overkill two rap rings are.
  10. above post: right on.
  11. I'd say once one's there it seems reasonable to replace if it is dangerous and people are still using it. I'd hate to see new stuff though, there's so much land that is not under the wilderness act, where bolting can be legal, and in fact, welcomed. I have a great time climbing bolted routes.
  12. There are bolts on hood, though I would not want to hang off them.
  13. Better back up your belay loop then, and the rope. SMC Al rap rings are rated to 16kN.
  14. Since "legal" is an objective term and "radical" is subjective, it is a little confusing where people stand at times. It's like arguing the "blueness" of the sky. Personally I don't think bolts belong out there, except for the ones already placed as pieces of history. Dungeons in Europe continue to be tourist attractions but it would be an abomination to build new ones...
  15. No power tools are allowed in the wilderness.
  16. I think 1 ring is enough. Why use 2? I could see them wearing from rope pulls but just how heavy are the people rapping on these things?
  17. They also have some great deals on Volants too, but I STILL can't afford those things.
  18. gotta agree with the bug.
  19. depends what version of photoshop it is. If it is fairly recent, you can apply an adjustment layer (Layers -> Adjustment Layers -> Hue/Saturation) and do a lot of tweaking, or you can just apply to the entire image (Image -> Adjustments -> Hue/Saturation)
  20. I'm sure Wy'east was skied before that famous descent. Check the Hoodoo bar
  21. I believe doug coombs skied it, but rapped the crux pitches. so maybe that's not skiing it. I'm not arguing with Sir Coombs myself. A line through Eliot HW has been skied. Several lines on Reid and Sandy HW as well. I posted a photo in the oregon section showing the condition of the face as of Sunday. This of course has been thrashed by the hot wx now.
  22. but it's really dumb to get hurt for the season on a clip-up and have to tell people yeah I got evac'd from bbq the pope for the rest of your life
  23. my condolences to friends and fiends
  24. you actually want me to read something
  25. whoops, I've been scooped.
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