iain

quote: Originally posted by glen: ...just started taking whippers until I understood that it was okay. Taking whippers is never okay unless sport climbing. You should be afraid to fall, and learn to accept that fear (which will always be there) and use it to focus on the climbing at hand. There are plenty of classics out there on which you just don't want to fall.

quote: Originally posted by Climzalot: Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. cgentzel@aai.cc But judging by your address don't you work for a guiding company?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: judging by what you found, i would say at least 2, possibly 4 previous descents had been made unless you suggest they all fell as a group (while roped together...) Damn your right, foiled again! We really wanted the first ascent of that magnificent line. This was all crap that people had let blow off the ridgeline. There is yet another nalgene teetering below the crawl if anyone wants it. We didn't have time to rerig on the other side.

They probably would have worked just as well as webbing on that rock. There is also a spindrift of nalgene bottles that forms down on the west side, but we did not see it this time.

Three Fingered Jack, OR Did a very long lower down from above "the crawl" over the west face. Collected the following: two polar fleece jackets, a purple wool hat, a small backpack. The rock was abysmal. Had to be a second, if not first descent/ascent!

check out the mackin snafflehound in the bottom left as well. that bro has it good all 'round

bullshit man, there's no brush over there. it's a cakewalk. I've been making attempts on Mt. Spears for 15+ years so I am more than qualified to determine what is bushy and what is not.

quote: Originally posted by Dr. Ben Krazy: Cold. You're asking for a verbal thrashing from MountainMan. Better post your home address and get it over with!

PS could someone post the topo?

yeah but I've heard the overhanging roof crux varies in difficulty seasonally. Sometimes mixed terrain, sometimes decidely icy. It's a route for those who think young, really.

To what does the north face refer? The Eiger?

nothing like a good poo-pushing thread. getting warmed up for a friday evening on the town dudes?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Arc'teryx designers are known 4:20 ers No wonder they have all those little zipper stash pockets.

nope, web lackey right now. but my degrees are in geology and biology hence the shakey chem. Too much organic chemistry..brain can't absorb....shudder.

I thought it was settled that you were supposed to run down slabs...

err, MgCO3

Hmm...drop coils it is then!

someone mentioned it would be fun to bring a bucket of 1M HCl to classic crack, pour it in, and watch the thing fizz out from all the MgCl slime.

exactly. On first visit sites like that make me thing "hey that's cool." but the subsequent visits get to be a chore. That stuff works great as a corporate faceplate if you are a rich media developer or something similar, but for your typical consumer climber who wants to get the specs on something quickly, it's a little stiff on the download. Then again, your typical arcteryryryx'didas' teryx consumer probably has the bandwidth to swallow this thing. I happen to have a fast cxt'n. I found it pretty to look at, but pretty annoying in the long run. PS. How'm I supposed to outrun the cougars if I have to wait for my namesake site to load? Now for some Midnight Oil

I boulder off-and-on at the PDX rock gym....I can't get up anything at that place, makes me feel like an idiot. I be a crappy boulderer. That or crap rap / eurotrash techno music degrades my climbing instantly. she's my cherry pie

i always figured trask for an all-star softball player w/ a 2wd truck, if you catch my drift.

When you're making $390 profits on jackets you can afford to buy an NYC hipper-than-thou web package (i.e., one you can barely load, much less navigate). Bonus points for unnecessary flash files and trace mp3 stream. that crap is so 1998 me, I stick with stryper:

I've seen many a sketch on Bunnyface where a new leader is trying to get to that first bolt. It's a touch high for beginners (I think it's just the massive erosion going on around the a base of those climbs).

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Some of my fav sandbags: Free for all 5.8 -Beacon Rock Stanley Burger route- Prussik Classic Crack 5.9 (My Ass) Broughton Bluff Steck Salathe 5.9 or 5.9A2 -Yosemite FYI ehmic: Godzilla isn't that wide. Right on w/ Classic Crack, that thing routinely spits me out, greasy as hell. I feel better now. Maybe I just still suck at liebacks like that tho'.

And here I thought they were being all smart posting during non-working hours so as to avoid the bored-to-tears heavyweight sprayers out there, at least for a few moments. Me, I'm pathetic enough to be immune to such tactics, as my spray knows no hours. well, time to put on "look what the cat dragged in"