iain

timm@y I look you up in my phone under gapertimmy now

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: snow just covers up the ice are you a communist?

Guess I've never considered the thing seeing all those rail-thin guys heading up it and pitching off. A lot of those seem like serious strength:weight ratios required. Well that and 5.11 remains daunting to this sport climber. Guess I'll keep at it

there's a lot of stuff at smith I'm pretty sure I'll never be able to climb. That's one. Here's another:

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Who would like the beta for the Smith Rock classic Chain Reaction? isn't that public domain by now?

quote: Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer: i will try to e-mail my cell # how 21st century of you I will print out the email and put it in the paper shredder so that no one else gets it.

as for the page top thing, isn't that a requirement for acceptance on this board?

I thought my only contribution to this fun thread, chastising a spelling error like some school marm priss, was only in keeping with the tone and tedium of the thread.

"It's clearly a budget. It's got a lot of numbers in it." Nice avatar gregm!

hmm nice to see some freshiez on TOP of santiam pass

an obvious and juvenile TOP

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: (FYI: Womens Suffrage=Womens right to vote Right to vote) Why should women get to vote twice Spanker?

"There ought to limits to freedom" -Texas State House 5/99

"This is Preservation Month. I appreciate preservation. It's what you do when you run for president. You gotta preserve." ...when speaking about Perserverance Month in New Hampshire

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: Did anyone give you grief for NOT having a cell phone? As I recall, if you don't have a cell phone on Mt. Hood you are (at least theoretically) required to have MLU's. The only time the issue was publicly raised was in Accidents in N.A. Mountaineering (incorrectly labeled as "Fall on Rock"). The VHF radio proved very valuable for helping organize the rescue effort and guiding in the helicopter, but this was only after the resources were on-scene. A cellphone would have been much more appropriate, and we were planning to bring one, but it was left behind at Timberline. We could have been prosecuted under the revised statute since we did not have cellphone/MLU but one would have to prove gross negligence. I don't consider the MLU very valuable unless you are a first-time out-of-towner heading out in a sketchy forecast. Since it became a military operation, any charges were quite unlikely. There was the usual crap in the Oregonian, as after every Mt. Hood incident with a Blackhawk photo and a big "WHO PAYS" nearby. The point was not raised that both of us carried AAC rescue insurance.

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: Just because...... how about a response from the spelling police?

Good point Steve. I've been reading too and would rather not chalk it up to voodoo. It would be nice to know which of those slings was the culprit. Crazy stuff has happened, like those guys who tried to rap off an abalakov but accidently fed the rope through the long tail of the knot, which was frozen in the ice...

Just an aside, but if anyone is interested in mountain rescue and lives remotely near Corvallis, Oregon, I'd like to invite you to one of the unit meetings for Corvallis Mountain Rescue, one of several MRA units in Oregon. I would like to see some new faces who are both interested in climbing and helping out other climbers. Send me an email if interested. Climbing experience, is of course, appreciated. -Iain

yeah I agree, I've found lots of gauze and dressings are some of the most important things to have. Pretty much all I carry. Those orange seattle marine vinylove freezer gloves are killer for mountain medical stuff, as they are totally sealed and warm, and close to disposable afterwards. It is a pain at a bloody scene where your mitts soak up all the blood because you can't get nitrile over your insulation.

quote: Originally posted by sketchfest: Iain, I remember that story when it happened. I remember thinking, "holy crap, those guy's got lucky, I need to get me a couple a talkabouts. Yeah it got a lot of publicity. Got an article in People magazine and was on NBC nightly news. Insane! All of it would have been mitigated if we had a cell phone.

I've heard sandstone is dangerous to climb after rains due to its porosity making placements sketchy at times. Urban myth? I've never climbed on it after rains.

the main issues I have come across w/ the wire bail is when using a boot that has a very worn sole, leaving only a thin bit of rubber up front to keep the thing on. I've not had it fail, but it's been a bit dodgy at times. I have had a partner have major problems with the wire bail on a rainier climb a few years back. We ended up encasing her foot w/ duct tape to keep it on. That said, I have had zero issues on many different boots w/ the wires. I'm not married to them though, I've heard great things about the grivel system of abs plastic up front.

I have used the Charlet S12's w/ a wire bail in the front with zero problems for the past 5 years on leather boots, plastics and at's. I have climbed vertical to slightly overhanging alpine ice with them w/o difficulties, though they are marketed for lower-angle stuff. There is no flex if you use a solid shank boot. I highly recommend these crampons, or others like them (Sabertooth wire bail has a slightly more aggressive front 4, so should work even better on steep stuff). They're the only crampons I own, and unless you are doing a lot of extreme waterice (and that's not so common for all but the most dedicated ice climbers in the PNW) I don't see the need for the "new-wave" stuff out there (bionics, etc.) which weigh quite a bit.

mmm...looks like fun!

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: 3. Canadian accents get annoying after 15 minute Try being hut-bound with a pack of 'em for a week or so! oh it's really snowin' now eh? time for some big rock eh? iain you're going to do some more shoveling eh? just kidding canadians are way cool (at least the ones I know).