HerbertWest

1) You can't guarentee it will self-clean 2) If it doesn't, you get to enjoy the rope drag. Have fun, dumbass 3) If it does, it's useless. You'll wish you had it up higher, according to Choad's Law. 4) Choad's Law also dictates that the peice will invariably get stuck in a postion where you don't want it to be. 5) Ever heard of "style"? How stylish is having your shitty, rope-drag creating gear that probably wouldn't hold a fall in the first place not fall out like it's supposed to?

$100 US + $10 US S&H Comes with Duct Tape reinforced cover. Serious inquiries only.

And why, exactly, should I not utilize P2P file sharing networks to exchange music over the Internet, when I can go and get raped in the ass at a music store, by money hungry music industrialists?

Why waste you time getting gear that would "probably" hold a short fall? It had "better" hold a short fall. As far as "self-cleaning" gear that creates ropedrag?????? What drugs are you on?

Bad gear is also a waste of time and energy. Better to run it out on good gear than to fuck around getting shitty gear.

what are you saying? I sling weeds with rubberbands... Seriously though, I agree with marking it and using it for other functions. Like an uppward placement at the bottom of a route, if you're conserned about the uppward pull of the rope caused by a fall will pull the first peice, second peice in a domino afect... I donno go with your first intuition, what you feel comfortable with.... Direct aid only. Exclude junk gear from belays when possible. Better yet, fix it in the best finger jam at the crux of some climb you want to ruin.

Where'd the Banff Climbing Accident thread go off too? I sure do miss the thing. And I was starting to hit my stride, too.

Mike: I'd put the black tape on the cam and put it on the aid rack. The energy required to mushroom a cam lobe is sufficient to create micro-cracks as well, which could lead to future "catostrophic" lobe failure (the lobe would break under a load) Gear is to fall on, but you'll want it to actually function as intended. Not worth the risk, IMHO ($49.95 vs. two broken feet or life in a wheel chair or making you friends go to your funeral)

You'll have to let them know that in their fair in balanced reporting, they neglected to mention that GW Fuckhead is also a millionare. They'll want to add that in.

shorter of breath, and one day closer to death

The straw that broke the camel's back. What's more fucked up: This guy, or the fact that I get to read about his miserable life and death in the "news"? Pardon me while I vomit out my last hopes for humanity.

A: But my mommy said I'm a big boy now. TOO FUNNY!!!!

I set my own top rope thank you very much mister smarty pants But would you tension off of a fixed nut?

dude. sauna = steam. steam = boiling. boiling = 100C. Dude. He said the sauna was heated to 100C. That would roast your skin. not necessarily. in the army they did tests where they heated soldier volunteers at like 200C for two hours trying to get them to pass out etc. if you reach 100c at a slow rate of increase your skin has time to adjust (sweating etc). Dur: Steam at 100*C would burn your skin. Try it with your teapot. It would also be invisible to the eye. The steam you see in a sauna is condensed water vapor, at <100*C. As far as heating soldiers to 200*C, air has a much lower heat capacity (1/4) than water. 200*C air against your body will heat you much less than 200*C water against your body.