scott_harpell

you can count the number of sport climbs I have been on with two hands. so...maybe you can't judge then? that's great logic. i haven't tried heroin either. should i try that just to be sure?!?

She's got a face made for radio. and tits made for porn that one's for you muffster!

stoli vanilla is good. check out their website for some fun recipes. i am a 'neat' kinda guy, but i like a like chnge now and again. this thread is making me thirsty!

green is not your color. some people have these bodies naturally. What made you so goddamn idealistic? You sound like Johnny Destiny these days. i see Muffy is not the only one wearing green today... wassamasta? fall of the V1 you've been projecting for months now?

precendece...

Mmmm...

green is not your color. some people have these bodies naturally.

we can chage the topic... i am a big fan of vodka.

we can transcend all this crap. if we are better than the "golden age" who cares? why dont wetry to be the best stewards we can be regardless of who came before us?

yeah perhaps that was a subconscious decision on my part.

That is exactly the kind of thinking that I was trying to counter with my hyperbole previously.

There is nothing i despise more than the "everyone is doing it" and "the general consensus" arguments. I hate to sound like your mother, but "if everyone was jumping off a bridge, would you?" seriously! I for one dont care abotu general consensus. I think that we should hold ourselves to a higher standard. What we know is right after careful analitical dialogue with other climbers and other concerned parties (land managers and other users). The general consensus in Italy is that the U.S. hired a plane to run into the T.T. on 9/11 and the general consensus in the U.S. is that Bush is one fine president. Really makes you think twice about general consensus eh?

you can count the number of sport climbs I have been on with two hands.

Listening to some right now and I have to say that Marth Agerich does a fine job. Anyone else have any favorites?

oh and about 3 years ago i was home on x-mas break and i saw martha stewart's version of egg-nog. like 90% of it was hard-bar. freaking alcoholic.

here's to grandpa's! my first beer was from him. i wont tell you how old i was. but i miss him a lot and wish i could slam another with him.

I am against sport crags period. if they are one pitch, TR them. if they are multi-pitch, bolt them more sparingly ie. when there is a ledge present, getting run-out orto prevent likely injury incase of a fall; not because it will make a leader uncomfortable. without all the now antiquated hyperbole, that is what i am saying. bolt only when necessary but this seems a giant stretch from the current ethic. edit: and page tizzy top. that oneis for you cracked.

but matt, you cannot deny that there is one bolt at darrington in the same distance as there would be 15 bolts as another area. i guess you are misinterpreting my line of thinking. i said that it was a combination of the natural protection and the naturalness of the climbing that gives a climb quality status. it is nto a one or the other scenario. at darrington, if you were to hit those naturally protectable areas, the climbing would be the shits. but in a judgement call, it was worth sacrificing some of the natural protecion for quality of climbing. obviously this was an intentional decision whether it was conscious or not. it is easy to take my words in a black or white context, but i am saying that there is a sort of slider scale where using less natural protection may enhance the climbing considerably. It is possible to use the natural parts as you said, but this would be a different form of contrivance. it is a fine line between one contrivance and another, but it is one that i trust very few people to walk. i hope this clears up my stance.

Mmm carlburg... damn tasty... nothing better on hot day than a cold one.

Sure, that's the name of the game, and it's why chipping is wrong. But how many bolts are too many? Should you only climb routes that you can walk off or downclimb, thus enabling you to leave the rock clean of fixed gear? Are bolted anchors acceptable? Are slings better because they degrade more quickly? You seem to admit that there's some leeway for bolts, but your earlier posts make it seem like a fully bolted route is unacceptable. How many gear placements are enough to make an otherwise bolted route acceptable? i would probably say that a fully bolted route is overly-contrived. i do believe there is 'some leeway' for bolts, but i do nto necessarily trust the people who are bolting to make the decisions as to how much to bolt. there are many people which bolt in a way i would describe as minimally bolted. MattP, i think, was done tremendous work in the past and i am in no way taking away from his efforts but the precedents many bolters have shown is not one that i wish to continue. my rants are hyperbolic in a sense that i wish to counter the bolt-a-holics that are overbolting. clearly bolts are inevitable. an example is darrington where mixed routes are the norm, but bolts are few and far between and placed as a last resort. i applaud the skill and intelligence used in creating these routes and if i offended any creators i am sorry, but my words were based in hyperbole to counter the riciculous attitued of some that nature is their playground and to those that subscribe to the manifest destiny type attitude that says "if i cant beat it, i will conquer it. for the people bolting responsibly and conscientiously

in espresso.

lets start with a definition of rock climbing. here si the one that i am using. using the natural weakness in the rock to ascend using hands and feet. if we feel that it is necessary to use protection, can we not usethe sme means? ie. using the natural weakness? sure a bolt may be needed to protect occasionally inbetween gear placements, but shouldn't we try to find the most natural line not only in our climbing but also in the protection of those climbs. isn't that part of the game. balancing the two out? that is the beauty of finding a truly great climb which needs minimal alteration and gets you to the top. that is the name ofthe game isn't it?