iceaxe23

I too have been in that situation as the one who did not want to go down and as the one who did. With the rope and rack I wonder why they didn't just both rap down?

On the Kautz route. I went looking for them a few weeks ago with no luck up to the fixed line. I lost them over a month ago and they just have sentimental value to me. They are black windstopper fleece with the moonstone logo. Maybe someone picked them up

I always hate to read about these, My sincere condolences to the family and his climbing partner.

me and a friend scrambled up a week prior and also turned around at around 9K. We went up that ridge line to the left of the jefferson Glacier. Nice trip and could see the smoke from the fires. My crappy "photo" as my camera was on video of the glacier from maybe 8k?

great photos!

I started off with Koflach "hunters" and they were kinda warm then to nepals (with cold toes early season) and now have La Sportiva Baruntse which is more boot than I will ever need for early season or winter slogs. I'm pretty sure this boot has a VBL type liner though and wish it did not (tends to get funky smelling) but my toes are never cold.

850 is just the warmth to weight ratio of the down. Is it a parka, a middleweight, or down sweater? if it's a himalayan parka then yes, if it's a down sweater than no.

Bravo gentlemen! very well done

GREAT trip report and killer 'stache! I told my buddy he should try this as he's a great cyclist and climber. I'll have to show him this TR. Thanks for the inspiration!

I'm pretty photogenic as long as you don't show my face.

Here is a good video that I snagged off the net on lead fall practice. It's how I was taught back in the day. You take some falls on bomber pro in a safe area. You can also work your way up from toprope falls (little bit of slack), to sport climbing, and then to Trad. [video:youtube]

Yea I used to have one of those and it was great. It froze one night and split open. My new filter is huge and heavy. I may have to look for a new ceramic filter or the pen. The pen won't freeze but may just break.

yea that I would like to know also

I've got the lighter BD contact version in stainless. I have used them all season to compliment my older more technical crampons. I ended up using them 90% of the time this season as they are not heavy. I abuse them and never take them off even for large scree sections. I really thought I abused them on my last epic but they look fine. Like others have said just go climb with them.

and not to continue the debate i requested not be continued, but rather just to help people understand why something like the Spot, specifically, might be desirable to some people: a LOT of guys don't climb (thinking of my own mountain ambition) for solitude- they climb JUST to climb. JUST to get to the top. these are the guys updating their facebook status at every rest stop up the mountain... "just reached 12,000... boy am i pooped! oops, looks like Ben's on the move again.. that was fast! next update: the SUMMIT! wish me luck." etc... probably seems silly to some of you... but silly as it may be, you cannot judge. your reasons for climbing/backpacking/hiking/whatever are NOT the ONLY reasons, and solitude seems to be, increasingly, NOT why a lot of guys go into the back country these days. stated not specifically at anyone- just offering a perspective i think i lot of people miss. right on....for me it's the freedom of the hills and the solitude of a small group or solo. I hate to say it but if I had a spot or PLBs I probably would have used it on my last trip. I got "wierd" on the Kautz glacier route just below camp hazard. My "partner" got pissed off because I did not want to push for the summit. He bailed and just started descending while I was trying to get my gear together. I was in all kinds of confusion and hurt vomiting on the way down. At one point I was next to a huge moat and crevasse with the only way out back up. I tried my cell with no luck no signal and I couldn't unlock it, and then screamed for 20 or so minutes with no luck I was so confused and out of it (couldn't even tie my boot laces and probably did not know what day it was). At that point I probably would have activated one of those things. I did not have one so I did the only thing I could do....slowly down climbed back to paradise all the time dizzy, vomiting, then dry heaving. I only fell once down one of the the scree sections. Then at paradise drank a huge amount of water and threw up again in my "partners" car. doctor later said I had hyponatremia and could have died. I think I will just climb with people I trust from now on and not have to worry about carrying another piece of kit that may not work.

Great trip report!! A good partner can make or break a trip, and this looks like a great trip.

I've used those Irbis titanium ice screws as Mountain gear used to sell them like 10 years ago. They crack waterice and are as Genepires said worthless. They normally sell for $10-12 and would maybe work as a pound in on alpine ice. I carried them on a Rainier attempt back in 1999 and luckily did not use them.

Looks interesting. I have used some kong wired stoppers for over 10 years with good luck. I do remember my friends Kong crampons breaking on the DC route on Rainier about 10 years ago too. front bail came off. I'm pretty sure they invented the keylock biner though. more info

I've had severe and probably life threatening AMS, and I could see how it could manifest itself as shock, or appear to be shock I too have had severe AMS and possibly hyponatremia wich can be confused with AMS. Both are pretty scary when mixed with altitude. I recently had to down climb on Rainier on the Kautz route more or less by my self starting from the fixed line while confused, dizzy, and vomiting. It was no fun.

PM sent sounds great! Pm'ed you my number

I was up 10 days ago and it was OK for a south side slog mostly on nice snow

I have off work friday the 26 until monday. My friend that was going to go with me bailed Very last minute. Had some people that I was talking to via Pm that removed themselves from possible future plans (hey sorry I work retail and have horrible hours) I'm 35 and in good shape but looking for a slow climb (camp at 8-10 k for a night to acclimate since I don't acclimate fast and the next night summit) Also up for just a muir hike and camp, alpine ice climbing, anything had a horrible last few weeks with work and just need to get out

Let me know what days and maybe I'll do hood with you. I dig the project and If I can't go with good luck!! I'm going to Rainier again in two weeks but it's more about the climb and route than the summit since I have only been there twice this year.

saw this posted over at trailspace and never knew about it. Not really sure what to think. They look just like almost all other newmatic modern climbing boots. All my current boots are made in Italy (sportiva's and Scarpas) and I don't think these will be made there..more likely china? So newmatic boots are for a niche market? One TNF item you may not see at the college campus though http://www.trailspace.com/blog/2011/08/08/the-north-face-verto-s-4k.html

when I was young and in my 20's my buddies and I did Rainier, adams, hood, and shasta in 5 days. Now I climb one and I want rest and jack N the box! I'm in my mid 30's and hope to become a hardman maybe in my 40's....but so far I'm not either way I hope you have a fun 5 days!!! remember just being in the mountains is fun!!