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Everything posted by iceaxe23
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[TR] Wallowa / Eagle Cap Wilderness - Various / Several 8/1/2011
iceaxe23 replied to Holk's topic in Oregon Cascades
Bravo gentlemen! very well done -
the BD skis, yes still have them. Always need gas money
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The shorty skis are spoken for but I'll hold the boots for you I can't edit the original post anymore.
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They just have a polartec tag in them and were mine from the military. I never got to use them and they were not general issue. I'm 5'7" and 145 with a 30" waist and I think they would fit you as the upper vest part is really stretchy.
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boots Axe powerstretch bibs shirts polartec 200 bibs skis but I'm keeping bindings so make offer buy me some coffee and they are yours mini skis are spoken for I will post a photo of the pack soon
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[TR] Self-Propelled: Tatoosh - (Partial) Traverse 8/23/2011
iceaxe23 replied to rob's topic in Mount Rainier NP
GREAT trip report and killer 'stache! I told my buddy he should try this as he's a great cyclist and climber. I'll have to show him this TR. Thanks for the inspiration! -
I'm pretty photogenic as long as you don't show my face.
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Here is a good video that I snagged off the net on lead fall practice. It's how I was taught back in the day. You take some falls on bomber pro in a safe area. You can also work your way up from toprope falls (little bit of slack), to sport climbing, and then to Trad. [video:youtube]
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Yea I used to have one of those and it was great. It froze one night and split open. My new filter is huge and heavy. I may have to look for a new ceramic filter or the pen. The pen won't freeze but may just break.
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yea that I would like to know also
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Stainless BD Sabretooth mistake. Suggestions?
iceaxe23 replied to danmcph's topic in The Gear Critic
I've got the lighter BD contact version in stainless. I have used them all season to compliment my older more technical crampons. I ended up using them 90% of the time this season as they are not heavy. I abuse them and never take them off even for large scree sections. I really thought I abused them on my last epic but they look fine. Like others have said just go climb with them. -
and not to continue the debate i requested not be continued, but rather just to help people understand why something like the Spot, specifically, might be desirable to some people: a LOT of guys don't climb (thinking of my own mountain ambition) for solitude- they climb JUST to climb. JUST to get to the top. these are the guys updating their facebook status at every rest stop up the mountain... "just reached 12,000... boy am i pooped! oops, looks like Ben's on the move again.. that was fast! next update: the SUMMIT! wish me luck." etc... probably seems silly to some of you... but silly as it may be, you cannot judge. your reasons for climbing/backpacking/hiking/whatever are NOT the ONLY reasons, and solitude seems to be, increasingly, NOT why a lot of guys go into the back country these days. stated not specifically at anyone- just offering a perspective i think i lot of people miss. right on....for me it's the freedom of the hills and the solitude of a small group or solo. I hate to say it but if I had a spot or PLBs I probably would have used it on my last trip. I got "wierd" on the Kautz glacier route just below camp hazard. My "partner" got pissed off because I did not want to push for the summit. He bailed and just started descending while I was trying to get my gear together. I was in all kinds of confusion and hurt vomiting on the way down. At one point I was next to a huge moat and crevasse with the only way out back up. I tried my cell with no luck no signal and I couldn't unlock it, and then screamed for 20 or so minutes with no luck I was so confused and out of it (couldn't even tie my boot laces and probably did not know what day it was). At that point I probably would have activated one of those things. I did not have one so I did the only thing I could do....slowly down climbed back to paradise all the time dizzy, vomiting, then dry heaving. I only fell once down one of the the scree sections. Then at paradise drank a huge amount of water and threw up again in my "partners" car. doctor later said I had hyponatremia and could have died. I think I will just climb with people I trust from now on and not have to worry about carrying another piece of kit that may not work.
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I've used those Irbis titanium ice screws as Mountain gear used to sell them like 10 years ago. They crack waterice and are as Genepires said worthless. They normally sell for $10-12 and would maybe work as a pound in on alpine ice. I carried them on a Rainier attempt back in 1999 and luckily did not use them.
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you ever near PDX? I don't think you can ship the cylinders
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Looks interesting. I have used some kong wired stoppers for over 10 years with good luck. I do remember my friends Kong crampons breaking on the DC route on Rainier about 10 years ago too. front bail came off. I'm pretty sure they invented the keylock biner though. more info
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I've had severe and probably life threatening AMS, and I could see how it could manifest itself as shock, or appear to be shock I too have had severe AMS and possibly hyponatremia wich can be confused with AMS. Both are pretty scary when mixed with altitude. I recently had to down climb on Rainier on the Kautz route more or less by my self starting from the fixed line while confused, dizzy, and vomiting. It was no fun.
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I have off work this 26-29 Rainier /unicorn/?
iceaxe23 replied to iceaxe23's topic in Climbing Partners
PM sent sounds great! Pm'ed you my number -
I was up 10 days ago and it was OK for a south side slog mostly on nice snow
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I have off work friday the 26 until monday. My friend that was going to go with me bailed Very last minute. Had some people that I was talking to via Pm that removed themselves from possible future plans (hey sorry I work retail and have horrible hours) I'm 35 and in good shape but looking for a slow climb (camp at 8-10 k for a night to acclimate since I don't acclimate fast and the next night summit) Also up for just a muir hike and camp, alpine ice climbing, anything had a horrible last few weeks with work and just need to get out
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going on vacation on Thursday night and paid the bills and now have hardly any cash. I need gas, food, and park/climbing fee money Will post photo later tonight and most is in great shape. I'm in salem near Portland (yes that area south of Portland that is the state capital) Pick up preferred I also work at the woodburn outlet mall so I can meet you there too (hey oregon's #1 tourist destination) Kong short aluminum ice axe (even the head is aluminum) in retro purple $30 brand new polartec powerstretch bibs size small with moon zip great for denali or winter $35 Silveretta 404's med, BD ski's (like new 190's) and some skins that don't fit well $150 Garmont Kevlar climbers size 41 alpine climbing boots $30 North face Merino wool summit series T-shirt black small $25 Lots of North face polos and button ups size small $5 each Jansport summit pack (use as sleeping bag stuff sack then small summit pack) black like new $25 brand new North face torpedo neon green running jacket small $40 rossinglong free treck venture ghetto ski's with kharu bindings $25 Running boards for Toyota FJ cruiser $45 I will list more and photos, off to work cheers daniel
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FS cold cold world pack, 4 season tent, tnf duffle
iceaxe23 replied to iceaxe23's topic in The Yard Sale
everything sold minus the tent. Make a good offer on the tent! It's in great shape, always air dried before storage, and only used on snow. -
Again: Partners Needed for Something Interesting
iceaxe23 replied to Dean De B.'s topic in Climber's Board
Let me know what days and maybe I'll do hood with you. I dig the project and If I can't go with good luck!! I'm going to Rainier again in two weeks but it's more about the climb and route than the summit since I have only been there twice this year. -
I'll take the Climb High technical pack..used, excellent climbing pack $50
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now discontinued I had been wanting one for sometime and FA checked all stores for me with no luck. I really want the gold color but will take any color. thanks much