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iceaxe23

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Everything posted by iceaxe23

  1. wow bringing back an old thread. I used to have it on VHS and wanted my girlfriend to watch it. Now the VHS is worth $$$ on ebay and no torrrents. I can't find my my vhs and would love her to watch this anyone know were it can be viewed on newer formats?
  2. A pleasure. Here at CiloGear, I keep at least 4 different types of EVA around. Honestly, it's hard to tell the difference between similar types, a lot harder than telling fabrics or coatings or other stuff like that apart. The easiest test is compression set resistance. Pinch the material hard, and watch how long it takes to uncompress. Does pinching leave a mark? Pinch it again several times and see how the foam reacts. Does it come back from repeated compressions? Or does it leave a mark? Over time and use, the marks will substantially degrade the foam. The 'true' 'yellow hard man pad' is EvaZote because it has the best compression set resistance of comparative EVAs and is relatively easy to get at a density that's good for folks sleeping on snow/ice. Does it really matter? I'd hope not much. While I strongly believe light is right, I have no interest in self immolation or in freezing. Then again, I use the dense stuff. After closer looking and testing the blue cheapman pad has larger bubbles in the foam. My Yellow pad is denser. I have used my yellow pad alone in winter and have been fine. The blue cheapman pad I have only used it in this pack on Hood to sit on for breaks and worked for that (I just sat on my pack so I guess that would not be a great test). I pinched both pads and neither left marks. [img:left]http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx54/dan8152/IMG_0290.jpg[/img] Thanks again for your informative response. I am actually in the process of deciding what pack from your company I want to order. I have been reading up on your packs and watching your propaganda films on youtube. I'm thinking maybe a worksack 30 to compliment my CCW chernobyl (and replace this pack as it's going to my girlfriend) thanks again
  3. once I get my insurance figured out from my employer I'm going to get it checked out ( I hate going to the doctor). I researched the bursa sac with air and it may be that or even Arthritis. thanks all for the information
  4. Thanks for the reply and great information. Very informative! As to my yellow hard man pad I'm not sure of the make but it looks and feels just like the wally world one. My mom got me the yellow pad at a North face retail store in the late 80's or early 90's. It does have brown/or orange pinstripes on the bottom though. Just cause I'm like this, but please do forgive me. It's not exactly like your yellow one but blue, or I'd be shocked. EVA is made by many many companies. The best is EvaZote made by Zote Foams, it is used in yellow hard man pads and it does come in different colors (we use yellow, black and blue here at CiloGear depending on what our supplier has on hand). EvaZote comes in at least 8 different densities and you can have it cut to any thickness you want for the most part. From what I know, the wholesale price of a standard sheet at a standard thickness (~48" x 108" and 8mm) yellow hard man foam is about $40. That said, does it matter? Over the long run, yes. The Zote stuff lasts longer. In terms of "R-Value"? Probably. But R-Value testing against human body heat loss is a joke not a science, so... Manufacturing meets design. Manufacturing wins. Have a look at the thermoformed backpanel and the framesheet and it should be come clear. The designer wanted to have a nice effective load transfer while saving weight. The factory offered the high tech looking (and cheap) thermoformed backpanel as a feature and the designer required the removable framesheet. The designer might have wanted a tapered framesheet pocket, but setting that pocket would be a TON of work. Check out the bladder pocket for an idea. That is sewn on in with the folds and everything by a special, incredibly expensive machine with a jig. The manufacturer really didn't want to do a new jig and dedicate machines to this part and a have a manufacturing bottle neck with the designers silly contoured framesheet pocket. Not to mention the scrap material! The designer knows you don't want the framesheet running around and not being in the right place. It's not going to work well for first time pack users. Furthermore, a removable pad is just going to irritate the buyers at Big Box Retailer who see a disaster of lost crap in a price point pack. So the designer demands a tapered framesheet pocket that is hard but not impossible to open and keeps the framesheet intact with a minimum of shrinkable parts. Solution? Sew in a nice rectangle of fabric and add a couple of stitches to it to keep the framesheet where it was supposed to be.
  5. IT'S DEATH TO GO UP THERE!!! No break today. It was only supposed to be 15MPH winds and turned out to be 35MPH winds. It still beats work though. I only made it to 10K and my left knee started to hurt bad. Third time over 7500 feet my left knee hurts real bad. Have you been sleeping there for a couple of days now? I might had fallen down under your truck with my pack on when I got out of my car on Fri morning. It was so icy in the lot. I hope there are no scratches and I apologize for waking you up. Just one night per week. I have an FJ with nobody under it
  6. Ok so in the last couple weeks I tried to climb hood 3 times. Out of the two times My left knee starts to hurt really really bad at around 7500ft and I tried to go to 10k and was almost in tears my knee hurt that bad. I was in the Marines so I know pain vs discomfort, and this was pain. I had to hobble limp down and it hurt really bad. The strange thing though at around 7000 the pain starts going away and I was plunge stepping Like ueli steck the last 1000 feet to Timberline with no pain. I read about people flying in non pressurized planes having knee and elbow pain at high altitude but why am I having it at a relatively low one?
  7. I'm at timberline now, was sleeping in my vehicle. The wind keeps shaking my fj. Maybe I'll try to get up if the wind dies down
  8. So from work some time back I got a free backpack. A north face 35 liter climbing pack. It has 210D Cordura Dyneema fabric, removable hip belt, (top lid does not come off ) removable frame and aluminum stay. All at 2.5lbs I love the pack as is for days out rock climbing because of the frame sheet protects me from pro poking me in the back and I can haul quite a bit for a 35L. But for mountaineering I want a bit more freedom like my CCW packs (LOVE LOVE Them). So I was like "I'll just pull the frame out and put a folded pad in there" and then noticed can't do that as the frame pocket was tapered. Then I noticed there was a full rectangular pocket in the pack but it was "sealed" with threading so I pulled out my leatherman and unstitched it, went to wally world and got a blue hardman pad (exactly like my yellow one but blue) for $5.99 cut to fit. I now I have a 35L sub 2lb pack with hip belt and bivy pad! So why the heck did they make a pocket in there that was sealed up? It was like a bag within a bag. the pack [img:left]http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx54/dan8152/IMG_0247.jpg[/img] the pack inside out with weird cut frame sheet [img:left]http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx54/dan8152/IMG_0246.jpg[/img] Cutting threads to open up hidden pocket [img:left]http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx54/dan8152/IMG_0243.jpg[/img] Measuring/ Cutting blue hard man $5.99 pad [img:left]http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx54/dan8152/IMG_0244.jpg[/img] Finished! and I can still put the frame sheet in If I wanted too as that pocket is still in there. [img:left]http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx54/dan8152/IMG_0248.jpg[/img]
  9. just wanted to add I have climbed Rainier 6 times (both DC and Jib ledges) and never summited due to weather or not adjusting well to altitude. So I would like to get myself back up to speed on all aspects of alpine climbing and do rainier again soon (and often). The times that I acclimatized well the weather just was horrible, go figure. I have also summited hood, shasta, and Mt washington. This year I have tried hood twice solo with no luck and would prefer not to go solo. Rock climbing on plastic I'm a solid 5.10+ climber and trad lead I would say 5.8 but love easy 5.6 to 5.7's ( my favorite climb as been the owen spalding on the grand teton) I'm also 35 so sometimes have some old man strength which is a good thing but I'm not as fast as I once was. I am more slow and steady. So If I sound like a match
  10. I was thinking of going up monday night. I'm 35 and in good shape but I'm not the fastest I have gone up in the last two weeks but weather turned me around (well the first time this year I just crapped out as I got too exited and forgot to rest step)
  11. well I was on Hood Tuesday night/wednesday morning (south side). I had the whole mountain to myself!!! A couple hours into it I found out why! And another note: My new ÜBER cool Scarpa phantom boots may be quite a bit lighter than my nepal extremes but when they fit completely different they are almost worthless. (toes got numb and now missing some skin on top)
  12. well I'm going tonight to slog up the south side. webcams and weather don't look too bad http://www.skimountaineer.com/MtnWebCams/Hood-MtnWebCams.html?size=med&telemetry=true
  13. I was going to go tonight but the weather looks crappy still. I was up there last monday night and the weather was great but I was feeling crappy. I'm still thinking about tonight
  14. another vote for the G12. I have been a freelance photographer for over 10 years (no longer one as of this month) and used to use canon Slr 5dmk2's. I tried over the years carrying SLRs and did not like it for the bulk and just started using the G12. easy to use, takes great photos, and some manual controls. The option not to use the LCD and use the viewfinder is a great plus too! I aslo lovet that it looks like an old school range finder camera. I have a few cheap lowepro camera cases that just fit this camera that I'm strapping to my shoulder strap on my alpine pack. I've noticed that the easier it is to get to the more I take photos. Plus the video feature is nice too.
  15. Just moved in the area though I have been climbing out here for years. I'm near kiezer. I'm planning on any of the other glaciated peaks in this area. Last time was climbed a glaciated peak was a year ago so I need some practice. I work odd hours so I will have lots of weekdays free (less crowds maybe) Also love climbing at smith and OSU cheers daniel
  16. I was looking at trying tonight but watching the weather real close
  17. so far only climbed at OSU. Who would have known that I have been belaying wrong for almost 20 years Glad that epic ordeal of getting belay certified is over Well now I'm a local... My climbing history started years ago at Devil's lake Wisconsin in the late 80's and over the years climbed many of the cascade volcanoes and popular rock faces in the US. I have climbed Rainier 6 times and never summited (only mt I never summited) due to weather or not adjusting well to altitude (yes I made it to camp muir in a couple hours once but my head wanted to explode). So I would like to get myself back up to speed on all aspects of alpine climbing and do rainier again soon (and often). The times that I acclimatized well the weather just was horrible, go figure. Rock climbing on plastic I'm a solid 5.10+ climber and trad lead I would say 5.8 but love easy 5.6 to 5.7's ( my favorite climb as been the owen spalding on the grand) I'm also 35 so sometimes have some old man strength which is a good thing. So the only thing hardman about me is my yellow closed cell foam pad. Cheers and glad to be living here now daniel
  18. Just got in....LONG drive, but have the week off. Going to climb something this week.
  19. Yes in the outlet mall, and thanks for the info. I should be there sometime after may 7th!
  20. A retail management position. I am really thinking Wilsonville because of the distance. I will temporarily stay in Corvallis at a friends.
  21. I will be working near woodburn, so I guess I need to find a place south of portland. How is Wilsonville? Anyone need a roomate or know a nice place to rent from?
  22. Hello all, I have been on this sight for years and only visited the cascades to climb on vacation over the last 10 years. Well I got a job transfer to your state! Just need to find a town near portland to live and some climbing friends! Cheers!
  23. Ok I have an older north face summit down coat that is 700 fill with dry loft. not the baltaroo but the sewn through one with the insulated hood. It's pretty heavy but not baffled. I have used it on Rainier and an unplanned May open bivy on Shasta. I have a "jagged edge primaloft belay parka" that is identical to the DAS and I think this down jacket is warmer. Should I just get a new baffled down jacket and be done with it? thanks much
  24. I have a (don't laugh) The North face Beeline with 850 fill down 30°F rating and is about 21oz so far so good. has some scary light shell fabric that only has a DWR finish on it though so I'm looking for a light bivy I also picked up one of there new elephants foot half bags that has a w/b shell and just over a pound.
  25. yes Kevin called and rubbed it in that you all were climbing Jefferson last week. Looks like you all had fun.
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