bigwalling
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Everything posted by bigwalling
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Keyhole hanger To make heads you need a nicopress swager tool. They are expensive(bench mount 250)! If you aren't placeing a few 100 heads each year to not bother, you could climb most tons(!) of El Cap routes and never even place more than 100 heads. I sell heads and other stuff cheaper than you will find it anywhere(I'm not joking!). This is good option for almost anyone besides people who do F.A.s
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Here is example racks for 3 climbs on El Cap I've done. These 3 climbs represent Easy, Moderate, and Hard. These racks will allow you to clip a lot of gear, by the time you hit Moderate you want to clip a lot of stuff cause you could fall really far. Also, when I climbed Uncle Bens in Squamish, we brought a really light rack. Forceing us to run it out really far! This is possible on routes that are really fixed and have shorter pitches. Climbing a big wall with a free rack is really nice! Mescalito: 3 arrow beak 4ea cams to 2" 3ea to 3" 2 each to 4" 1 big cam 1 ea nuts hooks a few heads Zenyatta Mondatta 2 beaks 8 arrows 5 blades few angles 3ea cams to 3" 1 ea nuts 15-30 heads(we placed 15-18 when we did it, party after us placed none) Just depends on how much is fixed hooks Plastic Surgery Disaster: 8 beaks 2 rurps 12 blades 12 arrows 2 ea angles to 3/4" 3 ea cams to 3.5" 1 ea nuts 40 heads hooks(all types!) keyhole hangers(RP are the best, keyholes are rad on hard routes) OE800 will make you happier!
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Just use napalm!
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IF you get serious it will look something like this in a few years. PINS: 25 blades 30 arrows 20+ beaks Tons of angles-all sizes and mods Cams: Lots like 2.5 set hybrids and 2 sets regular plus tcus Lots of cams to #6 friend more nuts that you know what to do with Other: Screamers Tons of biners- they get trashed on walls, plan on losing 5-15 a season. A swager, cause I would have spent like 1000 dollars on heads by now. Hooks-lots of all sizes and mods Ballnuts for expando Liquor and a gun.
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sometimes linkupgear.com
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[TR]: Drunkup 2005 and Cashmere Dream Climbing
bigwalling replied to olyclimber's topic in Climber's Board
HAHAHAHAHA, I did not see you guys at secret cashmere spot. It still rained there tho too. -
It was up in like canmore or banff. They just had a wall and tons of mixed gear for sale. Up there they take that sport beyond serious!
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The moster is way wierd, but at least in the gym where I used them I liked it more than the fusion or ergo. This said I have never mixed climbed just fucked around in a gym setting.
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first ascent [TR] Kichatna Spire - The Black Crystal Arete
bigwalling replied to joepuryear's topic in Alaska
Wtf, this has turned fag or something.- 27 replies
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- alaska
- best of cc.com
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I don't think many young people on here. I just hit 19 and seems like I'm probably one of the younger reg. posters.
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The "I got drunk and lost ______ at ropeup" thread
bigwalling replied to Alpinfox's topic in Lost and Found
Did anyone beat the living shit out of the tourons in that fucked up town over there? -
hahahaha, tryouts... it would be funny as shit to be the fastest best in shape dude and totally fail all the other parts. Be like... oh what is a snow anchor?
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first ascent [TR] Castle Peak- FA: Sod-On-Me III 5.10+ A2 M4 9/29/2005
bigwalling replied to layton's topic in North Cascades
Cool, a blank wet slab... how fun... not- 14 replies
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- sod-on-me
- north cascades
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you did not put blow, hash, acid, or any other drugs on the list... i'm not comeing to that party!
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climb something near 11worth in the rain SAT - PM
bigwalling replied to Blake's topic in Climbing Partners
Not get too drunk??? HAHAHAHA, I'm out! -
Bobby... it is raining outside my window! Index is only like 30minutes too.
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Hell, if you lost just get drunk and do a bunch of blow.
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[TR] Index- City Park (gumby goes aiding) 9/25/2005
bigwalling replied to Alpine_Dreamer's topic in North Cascades
That works on easy terrian, but I'm not doing that on anything hard. I just want to take the weight off. I've used rubberbands, but this 1mm may be what I try next. But most the time I just don't do anything except backup knot. Offset gear may be fucking rad, but I did most of those lower wall clean aid routes(really free climbs...) without any of that stuff. A set of stoppers, set of tcus, some camalots... I felt solid and this was when I was learning... oh I never fell either until I owned all this fancy shit that I'd never climb without. -
HA, pretty funny!
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[TR] Liberty Bell- Thin Red Line, sort of 9/25/2005
bigwalling replied to telemarker's topic in North Cascades
Clip cleaning= cleaning a traverse and pretty much re-aiding it useing the pieces of pro left by the leader. It can be kinda interesting if you have to stand on shitty gear! OH if your partner backcleaned on a traverse... well you get to take the ride. -
thanks, ya I free climb some. Hell I used to be really into bouldering a year or 2 ago. I free climb about half the time I go climbing.
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Anyone want to? I don't really care what we do, I just need to get out! Drop a line here or pm me.
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[TR] Index- City Park (gumby goes aiding) 9/25/2005
bigwalling replied to Alpine_Dreamer's topic in North Cascades
I had a blue alien pop on that climb once... 50 footer head first... um.. 3 feet to that boulder and my head would have looked different. That climb is cursed... HAHAHAHA -
[TR] Index- City Park (gumby goes aiding) 9/25/2005
bigwalling replied to Alpine_Dreamer's topic in North Cascades
That 1mm idea is pretty good... I think a 6 inch loop may do the trick. -
Oh yeh, Moby Dick is really good... I only had one #3 when I did it. That was interesting to say the least! So bring more than that!
