ivan

so i got all these nice days off for xmas coming up and was thinking repeating the ne butt of j'berg in the soul-freezing suck of potentially deadly winter would be edifying - getting up is just half the fun, of course, and i was interested in how other folks might approach dismounting The Beast in potentially avi prone conditions. the cj coulior as always would seem fastest, but in scary conditions i'd like, want a hand grenade or something to blast it 'fore heading down. the uber-classic doug's direct would seem a very long trudge in snow, and also scary in bad avi conditions. isn't there another way off? i guess just rapping and downclimbing the butt itself might not be too bad, especially if using two ropes. thoughts? spray somewhere else, if ye don't mind...

"ah, they can have my nutz when they pry 'em from my cold, dead fingers!"

regarding the question: i wanna climb till i'm 90 and can't get out of bed, so to know i would die climbing someday wouldn't much matter, as it's too non-specific. if i new i was gonna die this year b/c of climbing, yeah, i probably wouldn't do too much climbing this year. tell me it's definitely gonna happen sometime over the next 60 years and it's not going to do anything more than make me be anal about safety, so that i don't get whacked while my kids are young. seems to me, it a patton-esque sense, the most honorable way for any alpinist to die is at an advanced age, obligation-less, on a route that was damned sporting

a fine example of the gay pride rap descent that calls to your tittering loins on that standard route (make it your mission to go back and replace all current stations w/ this exact same tat)

it's all about the music, baby oh, and the soccer-mom ass too, it's all about entering the zone while blanking out to the MILFs

i do 2000 ft/day of stairclimbing at the gym w/ a big stupid red backpack filled w/ 40 some odd lbs of water - it looks goofy but i'm usually so stoned and deep in a jam session w/ the usual mix of floyd/dead/phish/jimmy/etc that i could care less i try to run 3 miles a day on a treadmill w/ the pack too, but at a low speed in a kinda goofy airborne-shuffle which jostles the pack as little as possible and therefore spares my back and joints. i get the occasional wierd look, though this could be more b/c i sweat like a whore in church - when the occasional pogue summons the temerity to question my training objective, i spray away about my upcoming mox-assault 'till they get that vacant look in their faces like a dog that's been shown a card-trick - then i tell 'em i'm doing everest next year, without oxygen, and they perk right back up also fun at the gym, though i've been threatened w/ life-time banniation for it, is to climb the huge i-beams holding up the 3 story ceiling - the perfect lie-back, 5.0 shit, you can run laps up it for hours, just building strength - inevitably some soccer mom gets super upset that i might fall and get my dirty heathen blood on her pristine nikes which so exquistely match her hair-bands and she bitches to the manager, who she spends more time talking to at the gym then actually working out, and out come the goons w/ the heavy-hands...someday they'll get theirs though!!!

well, i ain't heard from no one - unless someone pm's me in the next hour i'm assuming no one's showing and i'm just gonna go watch the new harry pi movie and

sucks - so ya, pm me if you gonna be there and when. i'm out at 3 today but if no one's gonna be around i can find something more inspiring for meself, no doubt...

...making espresso on an xgk

the russians are a savage race, commendable mostly for their drinking prowess and resultant stupor-induced capacity for subsisting on mere misery - my liver'd be in much better shape i'm sure were i more slavic in my descent - i have to get by on my thoroughly corrupted, junk-pool-genes and wistfully contemplate the mysteries of Being a Thoroughbred Hardman.

well, he russian, so that kinda puts him in a different category... no fair comparing luke to , ya know?

so we scraping hte tool's round this tuesday evenign? i got a kid's playgroup thang at my house i desperately need to not be aroudn for...i'll be at the condom disposal zone round 330

dt'ing this tuesday? i can make that work...

i love how has conquered the board in just a few short days... so sad, john, does this mean we don't get to take endless stupid trips up to the stuart range this winter? i'm in this romantic quest to climb jo'burg next month, interested? the only shit on beacon open year round is the rock equivalent of jerry-springer worthy 500-kg snatch-aholie crack sniffing shit on the north side - all dank and totally unworthy. if it could be ruthlessly cleaned it could probably be made worhty. my main reason for supporting joe's crusade has been to allow this area to be developed (well, actually, that's bullshit- i want the south side to be opened yearround more - but that north side has great potential for development if it can just be subjagated to the brush)

ha! pussy! oleg n' i were out there today in similiar conditions and had a royal time (despite the savage slav neglecting to bring either gloves or hat). topping out on the final scramble up to the trail i couldn't help but chortle repetively like a madman at the insane hurricane conditions - gusts near 40 mph i reckon - the entire right side of my face numb like i was on a cocaine-disco-bash from the days of yore! i climbed the whole day in my trango boots in preparation for the long alpine rock season that stretches before us and had a fucking blast...jon, i thought you were going up to l-worth? i hadn't been up to the top of beacon in a year, but today i convinced oleg to make the walk b/c the conditiosn were so raw and nasty it had all the feeling of a fantastic alpine climb - how could we skip the summit? goddamit, why can't beacon be open yearround?

oleg, why not hit the return button after each one of dem pictures? my fav - insert vomiting emoticon for trashy thinness - like fawking the trailer queen winner of the methhead-world series

very cool pic - you must have been that large group i encountered at the top of the lift on the way down. hmmm...guess i was glad i didn't see that avy crown on my own journey to the gates.

as a totally inappropriate addendum to genepires, my dear oleg - you're a fawking russian! for christsakes, all you need is long underwear and a bottle of vodka! better make it a big bottle though...

shit, can't believe the weather's staying this good down here in pdx this weekend. anyone wanna go out and see how dry beacon is? i'm thinking saturday would be best, but sunday works too...

incredible - glad dude's okay - the girly pony-tail definetly loses it's coolness when accelerating at 9.8 m/s2

i love this fucking guy! when did he arrive on the scene?

yeah, based on what i saw this morning, i'd imagine all of the headwalls on the mtn would be bad places to be for the next few days - lots of huge chunks pouring down. descending off the summit via the old chute or w crater rim did appear a better option currently, though admitedly i didn't see any of the area by daylight figures that, when the rain/snow stops, it get too damn warm to enjoy the mtn!

Climb: Mt Hood-Horror on the Hogsback Arete! Date of Climb: 11/17/2005 Trip Report: the first "hood lap" of the season went down this morning. meself and 3 folks i'm too tired to remember either the names or faces of took on the dramatic and engaging hogsback arete of the might mt hood. oddly, we encountered a large number (about 10) of folks who had simliar ideas of getting some excericise in at 11 PM on a wendsday. the slopes above the lift are in double-plus good crampooning shape, but the chute through the pearly gates is currently damn spicy w/ just a single axe and alum cramps. the 'schrund has it's head up it's ass. question: i saw a lot of light coming from a structure down the wy'east arm, about the same altitude as silcox but across the great gorge of the white glacier - is that new? i don't remember seeing it before. now it's time to finish fusing two days of work into one Gear Notes: a second tool and steel crampons would have been nice for the butt-clenching mixed moves on delicate rime feathers lightly attached to frozen mud that currently marks the pearly gate chute Approach Notes: titties

cc.com is a strange place to search for sanctioned salvation

if you've never been on that side of the mtn it's def worth your time - the route is just at it's coolest when in fall conditions that didn't really appear this year. take some screws, some short picketts. or take nothing! it oughta be a mostly snowy, tight coulior after getting over the 'schrund, which could be anything these days. climb it soon, then make a point of sacrificing a fair virgin next october in hopes of getting the jiz-tacular conditions that make the n face the sweet route it can be...