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Everything posted by ivan
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forecast looks to be dry in the afternoon - broughtons or ozone?
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while simaltenously drilling a gnarly new route 6 inches away from an old one and throwing bald eagles eggs down the cliff and wiping their ass w/ the american flag!
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or, and related to my advice to always have a fifi, try the routes that are way harder than what you can free-climb - it feels really good to figure out a way to bull yourself through hard stuff, by hook or by crook, free/french/fullaid/fawkedupfreakazoid-style! (just don't claim to actually be a .10 climber! )
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in shah allah, sport-o kids will continue to infest the zone, in shah allah!
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#1 "Beserker" by Fuck You Yankee Blue-Jeans 5D-9X3ooFvo
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should say though, in their defense, those denalis survived 6 years of serious abuse, including an expedition to their name-sake mountain - i was very happy w/ the use i got out of them and a big fat bastard like me really can't go anymore lightweight on the slowshoes w/o losing all flotation
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I've offered him a pair of BRAND NEW skis (albeit older BD skis that are like 210s or so) and someone else offered ramer bindings for free but apparently he would rather slog. The stuff sat in my basement for a couple years waiting for him to get it. what can i say? so many hobbies, so little time... i was actually making some progress on the whole skiing thing - but then my daughter was born - and then a son - i've barely been able to keep my head above water w/ cragging and alpine - will learn how to ski when i'm 50 maybe? still got them skis rob - still sitting in the same place in MY garage now
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my favorite climbing trick on anything over 5.8, given my weak-ass technique and strength: always have a fifi-hook on your belay loop so you can rest whenever need be (wtf cares if its alpine anyhow?)
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here's one i picked up from tvash that i like: on multi-day trips, screw bringing a cup or bowl. just eat a dehydrated meal the first night, then use the foil pouch from there on out as your dish - it's nice to be able to seal up your grits in it in the morning when doing other things. a nalgene can be used just fine for soup/cider/hot chocholate/etc.
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better yet, just bring a straw! mine doubles as my tooth-brush
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steal other folks ideas and pass'em off as yer own!
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nothing's better for an unplanned bivy then a tiny mp3 player loaded-up w/ some really tranquil tunes i like storing duck-tape on my trekking poles percocet for long down hill slogs through godforsaken wilderness!
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conditions were not fun for non-skiiers on sunday - deep and shitty, even on the cat-track - above the lift there was some windscoured rime to boot on, but still mostly soft - didn't get upto the hogs back but there were no obvious big slide lines brings skiis or slowshoes if you go
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wooooord!
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open the pod-bay doors, art!
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i always water and feed my tauntaun after a good romp up the hoodwand
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sitting on your helmet is abuse, assuming your not using the old-school steel wehrmacht style guys i clip my on the outside of my pack, or put it at the top, so i can make sure it's not under my ass when i sit on the pack
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babies - the other, other whitemeat
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maybe that was why he was bitching then?
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like everything else in my life...with an eclectic and spastic sense of simulatenous contempt and love
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everybody here is a beautiful and unique snowflake
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the recent burma example would seem to be instructive - protest, we fucking kill you, you shut the fuck up, the rest of the world whines a bit, we return to business as usual tibet will have to have very powerful and very motivated allies in order to gain indepedence seems like what they realistically could best hope for would be some sorta semi-autonomy, like the kurds
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[TR] Mt. Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall 3/8/2008
ivan replied to arabianice's topic in Oregon Cascades
if you fancy the idea of actually taking up ice-climbing someday, you oughta post that question in the ice-climbing forum - if you don't see that in the future, just about anything you can pick up cheap will be good (i'd recommend getting an ice-hammer though, as it's great for pounding in pickets and pins) -
But the bikes being discussed in this thread ARE riding in an are off-limits to bikes. It's not ABOUT whether or not it's annoying to others--it's illegal. Illegal? Oh my gosh! That never presented a problem for those who voiced support for the establishment and opposition to the removal of illegally placed bolts on Mt. Garfield. Nor did it present any moral hurdles for the large number of climbers who at least symbolically approved of the Garfield project by climbing it and posting trip reports here. Even the WCC missed (and continues to miss) their opportunity to organize an effort to erase the route, which of course would have been laughable given the activities of certain members in other wilderness areas. the bolts on IB aren't annoying people who are actually in the area using it though, unlike the bikers, nor having a 1/100 the effect on the actual environment - the only folks who seem to have their panties in a bunch over IB are the folks sittng around the house steamed by the IDEA of the bolts being there, NOT travelers in the area...
