ivan

what became of him?

jah, the rope pulled fine - just thought it was bad ethics to put wear on belay bolts by pulling ropes through them on a regular basis? would love to see the middle of the roof go - much more badass than what i can do, though the holds are so sweet maybe if i had an extra-helping of badass some day....

yeah that's it - it was pouring rain but pefectly dry under that monster - really sucked trying to exit onto the mossy slab but i went 100% on aid on that and it woulda been fine if not for the rope issue - the view from the roof back down is awesome, as is the eventual rap back down (the bolts could use a chain, no?)

word - i tried doing just that but got nowhere (it's weird and has multiple pinch spots over a 2-3 foot length), but then i am very, very dim...i'm be very willing to second it though just to enjoy it

cool - yeah, a second pitch appeared to be dealing mostly in jungle shit and lacked the great aesthetics of the first one. again though, do you remember how shane prevents the rope catching? i've never seen or dealt w/ a more devilish feature...

you said lone bolt jh - the twin bolt anchor looked new - did ya'll put that in? it looked like a route might continue above - is there any more fixed gear/anchors up that way?

fine quality, but the stories been overdone by now...

yeah, no shit - but how? the rope gobbler is a large feature and i fucked with it for a long, long time trying to prevent it from doing it's thing and still ended up fucking meself - did shane use a nut on a single biner under that wobbly flake a foot left of the lip? i really would like to do this climb again but gotta figure out how to avoid the suck! the trad corner that goes up to the same roof also looks fun, though there's some shrubbery that'd have to go...

the driving rain threatened my perfect plan to climb today - ended up passing by the 'zone in order to have some fun on beacon - it had been too long - had passed the obvious route on the north side on several occasions before and bouldering around it and knew it would be hard and that it would be perfect for an uber shitty day - having done it i'd like to know more now its just 40 yards or some left of the trail where it splits off towards the gate - the route climbs the face to the left of a diherdal below an immense roof/cave, the biggest on the whole massif from ground level i'd think - there a bolt shortly off the ground followed by a mix of gear placements and pins, eventually ending a hard traverse left past the roof - i was fine to here, but as i passed the roof i emerged onto the hellaciously wet/mossy slab only to discover the rock feature at the end of the roof traverse was absolutely perfect at catching the rope - muthafucka! fucked w/ that crack forever tryign to find a way to prevent the rope from getting stuck in this thing, but ended up getting above it anyway, getting stuck, and then having to finish the climb tied into the tow-rope i'd hauled w/ me - the last piece below the double bolt anchor was a zany tree growing downhill at a crazy angle and shaking like a leaf in the breeze under strain, but still somehow alive and thriving. so what the hell did i do and how can it be done so as to prevent the rope sticking? seemed liked it needs a bolt way left of the roof to redirect the cord away from the thread-gobbler (my name for the route until i hear the proper one) other than that one total pisser, a spectatacular route i thought on the rare-side of beacon - very solid rock, crazy steep but w/ many secretive and soul-thrillingly bomber holds up until it got hard, hard...

i don't know if beck weather's friend are calling him stumpy or not, but goddamit they should!

great idea - luckily theres a whole new n-hood getting put up behidn mine....

twist on an old muse: if everyone put kevbone on ignore, would he really be spraying?

lasagna please...

alright, now i'm intrigued - waht's the tyvek for? ghetto bivy material i assume? what's the attraction?

dude, watcha mean? wasn't blake like in and out of court last year for his scoflaw ways?!?

the new paradise visitor center, for example...

water and air these drugs keep other people alive and they're really pissing me off

hyper-functional retards?

what the current anchor bolts on jensens lack in quality they make up for in quantity! i think at the top of pithc 2 you can interconnect somethign like 5 bolts. a great climb too, i hope more folks do it this year - i think i personally ripped out all of the oak left on route last fall at great personal cost to my johnson the last pitch might be the wildest, but it does end in a damn forest of oak, so it'd be real nice to have an anchor there just so you could rap and not have to face the insanity of making it to the trail unscathed...

hey, it's gonna be 90 on friday - how bad could it be?

i did this last week - if its as snowy on mem day as it was then, sobo's instructions won't be so helpful as there's no trail to follow - basically, from the shoulder at the base of the final slab, scramble down (we stayed roped) about 40 feet, then cut left on a snowy bench - there's a big ass boulder here tucked under a wall - descend strait from there another 50 feet or so until it cliffs out, then go skiiers right until you hit the bolts sobo mentions. it's 2 single rope raps from there, though the slab above the notch, which is usually an easy walk, had a few inches of fresh, watery snow on it and was made easier by doing a quick arm-over-arm style rap down it to our stuff

as a side note, pg is also a uber-fun quick aid/french-free climb, which is what it's become for me everytime i've ever tried freeing it

unless you're mucking around in the great amphitheatre of death by the norseman

in a very shallow grave where he belongs the li'l bitch!