Kevin_climber

First ascents on local mountains are typically "sketchy" as you are aware, such as the few "routes" on the Black Spider of Mt. Hood. However, I do plan to "repeat" your route up Mt. Hood above Illumination Rock, might even use a bolt or two, presumably you left something along the way. Kevin

It is a good climb. I would recommend going in on skis to make life sweeter on the return. Personally I may go to Kili and Peru this next year. Kevin

Personally, my opinion (having climbed most routes in the region including Yocum) is to cross Yocum below the typical traverse, it is likely faster to drop down and around Yocum. If the snow is thick and nice then going over can be done, but end up loosing some elevation on the back side anyway. Kevin

Great set of climbs. I've been to Peru many times to climb, but if I go this year probably will not return tell August this year.

Excellent trip up through the clouds!!!!

Looks very miserable - too wet.

Personally I would suggest a slightly bigger tent. After all, it is in a sled being towed behind you on most routes so the roomy factor is worth the weight. Also, build your snow walls high sturdy around your tent each night..... Kevin

Wayne, yes you drew it in as Elder / Russell. I have not heard from Steve for many years, though a couple years ago he mailed me some slides. Sometimes I wonder about Steve, though have not been able to find an e-mail address for him. He is a good climber with the laid back Kiwi attitude. Climbing it late July is a bit off-season, though I have no intention on repeating that route. I might go repeat your Arachnophobia in the winter time when icy (I presume you climbed it when covered with some ice that keeps the rocks from moving). The strange thing was the weekend after we climbed Yocum (August) and it was relaxing in comparison. The 1st Gendarme was a bit wild though, holding onto the ridge with your arm pits and grabbing as much mountain as you can. The ending rappel rock is very solid actually. But anyway, I think later that August Steve went back and soloed Yocum without any rapells (ridge all the way to the end) and brought a short rope though not sure if he used it. However, the best was running into Wayne on Mt. Hood and getting the number for Marcus. He's done lots of stuff around the house, very helpful. May put in a sauna, and I'll have Marcus do it all. As of late though, I've mostly been doing climbing expeditions to Alaska (3 times) and Peru (5+ times) and Argentina (once). Kevin

If Arachnophobia is the one climbed by Wayne Wallace, et al., then I am familiar with its location - Wayne once pointed it out to me (think it had a crux of thin ice on a vertical portion). Thus, you are correct that it would be the central rib to the left of Arachnophobia. Summer makes for an "interesting" time to climb Mt. Hood rock. At least it cuts down on the need for carrying excessive rock protection.

Trip: Mount Hood (old climb / new report) - Black Spider - Cerebral Dream Date: 5/12/2008 Trip Report: I am writing a belated report on the Black Spider on Mount Hood for informational purposes. Wayne Wallace is aware of the climb. Years ago I met up with Steve Elder to attempt a new line on the Black Spider on the East Face of Mount Hood. We approached from Timberline and walked to the base of the face in July. There are a few crevasses at the base that need to be negotiated and a few big openings that are best avoided. The climb, as I recall, starts with typical Mt. Hood crumbled rock. With ice axes, crampons, plastic mountaineering boots, helmets, we started to scramble up the face. We decided to climb the central rib that is centered on the face. The central rib starts the lowest down and goes nearly directly up the middle of the face in a "straight" line. To the right, there is a snow chute, which has been done a couple times. To the left, there is a vertical face, which I presume has yet to be climbed. Anyway, as expected the entire face is prone to rock fall. The rock is lousy and comes off in your hand (looser than Yocum ridge which I have climbed in August, that is for another day). After scrambling up low 5th class rock for awhile, you reach 30 feet of a nice crack in a blank face. With crampons scraping and hands jammed in the crack, you climb up the 5.7 crack. The crack ends at a stance where you have a single 5.9 move with crampons to reach flatter ground for a few feet. You can bring whatever protection you want for the crack, since it is one of the few places that protection might actually hold. A belay with your as* overhanging a big drop can be found there. You lead up to the right across "chalk" which is yellow and loose (probably sulfur of some sort). Then you climb up a vertical chimney which is straightforward with crampons because the points of the crampons have good purchase in the frozen mud. A good belay can be found at the top of the chimney although wiggling the rope results in dodge ball for the 2nd on the rope. The climb continues up the rib until you can step onto the steep snow and casually climb to the summit. In all, the route is not generally recommend due to the low quality of the rock, lack of protection, among other things. I climbed Yocum Ridge the following week (August)which was considerably more straightforward in comparison. Kevin

Hi: May be seeking replacement partner for Foraker in late May/early June in Alaska. I've been there before and have all the gear needed. Prefer someone with expedition experience, though not absolutely required. I have climbed in Alaska, Oregon, Washington, Peru 4-5 times, Argentina, and planning Equitor and Bolivia. Want to climb SE Ridge of Foraker. Going over Crosson is not a favorite option. respond to: kevin@chernofflaw.com Regards Kevin