ivan

all the more reason for aid climbing - you ain't leaving shit!

i'm a washingtonian climber and enjoying the hell out of myself, even if i've yet to do a FA of a kewl alpine route

so that's X2-3 pieces in the .75 inches and less range - assumign you'll be climbing harder and harder (read longer and longer) crap, you'll need more gear - especially if you just give in and go over to the dark-side of aiding having at least 2 of the following makes it such that you can usually make a fine rack when climbing w/ someone else who has some shit: blue, green, yellow, red aliens (.5, .4, .3 and .2 inch pieces - i like having 2 of each alien, than having 1 each of the same size tcus) fun, hard routes invariably lead to wider cracks though, so eventually having 2 in the .5 to 3" range will be necessary

i thought of this one independently - isn't it fahqing wierd how much she seems the soul mate of quayle? fuck - didn't he actually GET to be vice-president too?

dave, didn't you say you fell down low? you mustn't been too dinged up though, eh? your pro held? (was it right above the pin?) the pro sure is thin there though for the first 1/4 of the climb, and the potential for getting hurt is palpable - which is no doubt what makes it fun! i agree the last part is mid-tenish, but it's a pretty clean fall on very solid gear, so nothing out of the ordinary there

there's a ton of groups that use that particular shithole - why do you single out those 2?

pissed i couldn't make it john - i got the day-climbing or night-drinking ultimatium and couldn't finance the baby-sitter that woulda gotten the cake too - blah, blah, blah, excuses - oddly i guess its easier for me to make pdx social events during the work-week? no matter - i'dhve been too broke to contribute to the cause and i have a feeling i woulda flailed at the competetion as i bet my fifi hook would be considered cheating?

Yes...this is just for conversation. It just gets my goat that 20 years ago it was ok to put bolts in at Beacon.but if someone wanted to put up a sport climb there in todays world..they would get shunned. And to answer your question Ivan about whereI have no vision of this..just the idea. maybe this explains why folks are opposed to new bolts then - pretty much the whole south face has been climbed trad style already or bolts have been put in where warranted, and now the only sport lines that are going to get put in are going to be squeeze jobs crowding in on existing trad climbs? on the other hand, the north side could offer some fantastic winter/hot-summer-day sport climbing on rock that doesn't support trad, and i'd be plenty happy to see a fair number of sporty climbs there, if only they could also get cleaned w/o all the hassle that appears to be involved - i think it'll also ameloriate the situation if one side of the rock is sport-intensive and the other trad-centered - the two camps won't even have to talk to each other, just cast disgusted looks across the parking lot

since it's just an academic conversation anyways, where would you envision new bolted routes at beacon, kev (at least on the south side, which is pretty much totally covered in routes as is, a substantial # of which are neglected)? its seems like most of the lines out there will go as trad, they just require balls and cleaning are these new bolts placed on rap you're talking about, or just replacements? south side or north side?

hey dave - it'll make you happy to know jim says the 5.9 rating is just the lower part - the upper part is in fact much harder - just ask joe!

how else was i gonna tag up me smokes?!?

saw the ultra-kewl 1st edition y-day - great pictures - i hear the "safety break" pic got purged from the final cut?

hey, but at least he won't have to pay for a lawyer! noted w/ humor y-day kevin that the arete just to the right of me in the pics above, just below the roof, has several bolts - part of smooth dancer, maybe? whatever it is, it leads to the "crack to nowhere" which has me currently titillated

not as of friday

top of takes fist

me climbing on the upper pitch - thanx for the pix kyle! i needed my etriers to get past the roof, but ditched them there for geoff to follow note the tag-line - far-out! geoff at the roof look at all those other goddamn roofs what to fuck-wit!

Well, I don't care if it rains or freezes, Long as I have my plastic Jesus Riding on the dashboard of my car Through all trials and tribulations, We will travel every nation, With my plastic Jesus I'll go far. {Refrain} Plastic Jesus, plastic Jesus Riding on the dashboard of my car Through all trials and tribulations, We will travel every nation, With my plastic Jesus I'll go far. I don't care if it rains or freezes As long as I've got my Plastic Jesus Glued to the dashboard of my car, You can buy Him phosphorescent Glows in the dark, He's Pink and Pleasant, Take Him with you when you're travelling far {Refrain} I don't care if it's dark or scary Long as I have magnetic Mary Ridin' on the dashboard of my car I feel I'm protected amply I've got the whole damn Holy Family Riding on the dashboard of my car {Refrain} You can buy a Sweet Madonna Dressed in rhinestones sitting on a Pedestal of abalone shell Goin' ninety, I'm not wary 'Cause I've got my Virgin Mary Guaranteeing I won't go to Hell {Refrain} I don't care if it bumps or jostles Long as I got the Twelve Apostles Bolted to the dashboard of my car Don't I have a pious mess Such a crowd of holiness Strung across the dashboard of my car {Refrain} No, I don't care if it rains or freezes Long as I have my plastic Jesus Riding on the dashboard of my car But I think he'll have to go His magnet ruins my radio And if we have a wreck he'll leave a scar {Refrain} Riding through the thoroughfare With his nose up in the air A wreck may be ahead, but he don't mind Trouble coming, he don't see He just keeps his eyes on me And any other thing that lies behind Plastic Jesus, Plastic Jesus Riding on the dashboard of my car Though the sun shines on his back Makes him peel, chip, and crack A little patching keeps him up to par When pedestrians try to cross I let them know who's boss I never blow my horn or give them warning I ride all over town Trying to run them down And it's seldom that they live to see the morning Plastic Jesus, Plastic Jesus Riding on the dashboard of my car His halo fits just right And I use it as a sight And they'll scatter or they'll splatter near and far When I'm in a traffic jam He don't care if I say Damn I can let all sorts of curses roll Plastic Jesus doesn't hear For he has a plastic ear The man who invented plastic saved my soul Plastic Jesus, Plastic Jesus Riding on the dashboard of my car Once his robe was snowy white Now it isn't quite so bright Stained by the smoke of my cigar God made Christ a Holy Jew God made Him a Christian too Paradoxes populate my car Joseph beams with a feigned elan From the shaggy dash of my furlined van Famous cuckold in the master plan Naughty Mary, smug and smiling Jesus dainty and beguiling Knee-deep in the piling of my van His message clear by night or day My phosphorescent plastic Gay Simpering from the dashboard of my van When I'm goin' fornicatin I got my ceramic Satan Sinnin' on the dashboard of my Winnebago Motor Home The women know I'm on the level Thanks to the wild-eyed stoneware devil Ridin' on the dashboard of my Winnebago Motor Home Sneerin' from the dashboard of my Winnebago Motor Home Leering from the dashboard of my van If I weave around at night And the police think I'm tight They'll never find my bottle, though they ask Plastic Jesus shelters me For His head comes off, you see He's hollow, and I use Him for a flask Plastic Jesus, plastic Jesus Riding on the dashboard of my car Ride with me and have a dram Of the blood of the Lamb Plastic Jesus is a holy bar

cool hand luke = best, most depressing, movie - ever. "sometimes i wish you'd stop being so good to me, boss"

ahhhh! so today i got my revenge and finished the climb - definetly impressed you freed all that, nate! the roof was very fun, especially blowing out a nut above the roof and falling way back below it and having to connect etrier to etrier to climb back outta space back onto route that second pitch needs a shit ton of big nuts! went through everything i had on my double set and was still scratching and sketching awesome route - so glad it's been cleaned and i didn't have to do it the first pitch goes much easier the second time around, but even taking a lap on it on toprop after joe led it this evening the last part is wicked hard - 10d there? the roof is definetly harder but it's just a swift kick in the nuts having to do that hard last part after climbing all that way - glad my fifi technique was more efficient than joe's holy-shit-what-did-i-do-to-myself? improve act that last pitch is mega-classic - no mercy! bring plenty of gear! hopefully geoff's bro will get up some of the great shots he got of folks on route? did you do anythign after stepphenwulf nate?

tyler, when you gonna come work somma yer aid magic round here, eh? plenta fun shit here!

Different matter to you? Or to everyone? If I bolt and climb and you dont like it and chop it..then you have started the war not me. Mmmmm pretty hard argument you are purposing. Saying some bolts are better then others. Isnt that up to the person establishing the route? Ah.now we are getting somewhere..so it is about you. Beacon is not just your place to climb. Quite frankly there is a lot of wasted rock out there. There are probably 35 beautiful arêtes that have NO GEAR that just sit idle. I would love to (sometime in the future) look into putting up climbs on them. I do not think it would open it up for sport climbing just because an arête gets bolted. kev, i really don't want to see a ton of bolted aretes at beacon - it's what makes vantage look so fucking stupid - that said, a route w/ a bunch of bolts is cool if it's necessary to get to a cool trad route (like young warriors for example) also your war analogy is a wee-bit daft - by your logic, hitler's invasion of poland wasn't a war until the poles started shooting back

then why is sam elliot grinning at me so slyly on my tube-box?

yup, it was the hangers that made me more nervous then anythign! any clue why he left long blanks spots in the ladder? was he insisting on hooking through them or what?