ivan

Trip: Beacon RaWkS! - The Crack 2 Nowhere AKA Eggz 5.8 C1 Date: 10/25/2008 Trip Report: no pictures so you gotta settle for the song that's been in my head for days - even my kids have learned it! [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYFK1R-wUwg so this climb exists as a # and a blank line in the olson guide (#92 in the 2001 revised edition) - jim opdycke said "some kid" put it up "a good long while ago" and that "there'll probably be bolt anchors" - having been in the area a bunch lately, i was intrigued - no doubt "the kid" by now has lost all his goddamn hair (was it YOU, bill?) but the route remains and is absofaqh'nlutely stellar - i'm naming it to the most descriptive thing possible "the crack to nowhere" - i want to put in the paperwork to The Man so i can place a shortish aid ladder above and call it "utopia" since that means "nowhere" and that's where the crack below leads anyhow - if anybody can free the ladder (its a2 to get to where i'd place 5-6 bolts), it'd be an arete climb and somewhere in the .11s i'd imagine and wicked cool - they could call the free version "bacon" and, assuming they freed the lower crack too, that can be "eggs" - geoff was saying it's about goddamn time some route at beacon was called bacon, and that seemed pretty wise to me so, climb the first pitch of takes fist (joe's got a fixed line hanging on it now, and geoff n' me jugged that ghetto style (we had 1 jumar between us) after warming up on young warriors, where g-dog nailed his first leads of p2 and p4) - i felt content to jug the line instead of free the first pitch as these fall days are getting short and that first pitch takes some serious thought (plus i've lead it twice in the past month, so let's just take this as read, shall we?) - from the top of the fixed line, i climbed up to the base of the first roof (for takes fist) and had a blast aiding sideways for the 20 feet of so required to bust through the mother of all fucking awesome fist cracks that one roof to the right) - the horizontal crack under the roof is exciting and fresh and leads to an exhilarating crack up to the 3/8 inch anchor bolts another 50 feet up - the vertical crack is overhanging in spots, consistently 2-3 inches wide and in a mind-bendingly cool setting, just a wee bit below the far end of grassy ledges (if the aid pitch goes in above, it'll dump you right out at riverside, and you could take that up to the trail for a brilliant alpine-style grade III+ ascent.) so - awesome goddamn day - better yet i get home and the kids are all out partying so i have time to set down this delicious diatribe, this ponderous phillipic - nate, i'm calling you out - you'll dig it the most baby! my gear requisites below. Gear Notes: (just for the crack 2 nowhere) aiders a couple small nuts 2 .5, #1, #3 camelots and yellow aliens 3-4 #2 camelots 1 green alien and .75 camelot (for the eventual "nowhere AKA bacon") brass nuts hooks (birdbeaks?) couple kniveblades bolt kit - someone wanna lend me a handdrill so i can keep jim's park pure? Approach Notes: watch out for snarling dogs, andean walking-tourists, and as always The Big Hairy Eyeball

what he said the next time i'm after it though i'll be skipping the first gendarme and just going strait for the by-pass

Should your idea apply to the First Amendment too? how do you mean? like not letting janet jackson whip out her titties on tv or howard stern using poo-poo language on the radio?

dude, this was like so 5 seconds ago...

A positive side to global warming for us mountain climbers

having taught in the ghettoes for a buncha years, i can say pretty much everyone there already has one

cool - next time then - beacon's a fantastic experience, especially when you take it all the way to the top

this has been my solution for a long time - the funny thing is that they still go through the same routine, you're just totally oblvious to it

my solution's always been just ban everything BUT 2nd-amendment-origin-era muskets - you still get your militia, you still get your hunting, you still get your home defense, you still get your carry permit - if you take on you whole high school alone though, you're going down (we might want to ban bayonents though )

wasn't this somebody's comedy routine?

a question for you bill: what, if any, weapons should americans be restricted from possessing?

so'd you get out?

so....the plan for n face climbs this year: step 1: dismantle sign step 2: climb n face step 3: resist powerful urge to spray about accomplishment

"you know hitler believed in flair too. he made the jews wear it"

a good half-dozen rats learned this hard, hard lesson in my back yard this summer

american provided stingers seemed to make a pretty decisive difference for the mujis though

i'm thinking i'll probably go climbing?

there's always "barely legal"

my persian friend aarash did the route w/ nothing heavier than a fleece jacket, but he's a godless savage...personally, i'd think setting foot on the mountain w/o a long-ass, huge puff-daddy is a lot like walking into a thai whore-house w/o a wallet or a pocketful of rubbers...

my drinking fund currently has 3 dollars and 26 cents left in it for the month

how are they gonna keep folks from skiing up the tj once the snow falls?

doesn't sound like foot traffic will be restricted though? certainly not while snow's still on the ground?

that's the one day this week i can't go - will be out there friday though - you could alwasy try your hand soloing the se corner if you can't find anyone? you might try pm'ing denalidave - he lives out there...

but again, the guns out there aren't checking or balancing a damn thing, like joe said - the 82nd airborne can probably take on every gun-nut in the country together and come out just fine, no?

hmm, never heard of a soul brother being found hugely *lacking*